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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Diesel engine, top sides, hull, and woodwork repair
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Thread: Diesel engine, top sides, hull, and woodwork repair Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-29-2011 03:21 PM
mccrook1 Finally got a this picture to upload.
11-28-2011 03:26 PM
mccrook1 Good news, the diesel will live again. Compression test was great, injectors showed now signs of jelling or rust, valves no rust. No signs of water in the engine. For the most part need to replace hoses, exhaust manifold, clamps, filters, drain oil and gas etc. Seems much like routine maintenance and replacement items. Anticipate it to start next weekend when mechanic comes back with parts. Also here are some pictures. Couldn't get some pictures to load, don't know why. Gives an idea of some of the paint and wood conditions. Next I have second opinon scheduled for next week on the hull and topsides. I've decided at a minimum to do the woodwork myself.
11-22-2011 10:33 PM
mccrook1 Again, appreciate al the input. Priorities in order are engine, woodwork oil and varnish, hull, and then deck/topsides. The hull and deck show spider cracking. It isn't into the gelcoat. Looks to me to be paint since it is mainly flaking. As far as that goes there aren't all that many spots that I couldn't live with. My thought for the hull and deck are to try and do some minor fixes and touch up to get me through a couple of seasons, allowing me to get them professionally done with a breather in between. I am in the process of getting estimates from other sources. Also, I'm looking for a dry storage space through the winter so I can do the woodworking myself (and perhaps with some friends). I'll try and get some photos up in a day or so.
11-22-2011 07:54 PM
Siamese Let's bear in mind, you don't have to do everything at once. Why not prioritize your chores? Seems like a reliable diesel would be pretty high on the list. Rigging and sails matter. Pretty much everything else can just get in line.

If you want to get your feet wet with painting fiberglass, why not do the topsides yourself after you've sailed her a season. Followed by the decks (they're lots more hassle)?

Yeah, it would be nice to do a full restore before you launch, but why?
11-22-2011 06:26 PM
sawingknots i'm betting that it has the origional gelcoat'if so you should try to keep that,gel coat is very hard,harder than the fiberglass beneath,thats why it tends to get spider cracks,if the fiberglass core hasn't gotten soft from moisture and their not too bad i wouldn't worry about it,awlgrip or anyother paint simple won't have the duribility of gelcoat,if you got flaking its paint
11-22-2011 05:49 PM
mccrook1 Thanks for all the input. I will try to post some pictures as soon as I am able. Presently I have someone who is going to work with me on the engine. Learn as I go. As has been said, I've got to have some working knowledge of the thing anyway. That will save some money. I'm in the process of trying to hunt down some inside storage so that I can learn the woodworking side of things over the winter. I like the idea that was mentioned of the do it yourself boat guide. The hull might also be a project I would be willing to try. The deck/topsides, however I agree that a professiional will probably be the way to go. What are your thoughts on hull sides and deck that are showing signs of age via cracking and in a couple of spots flaking pain/awlgrip material. Is that something where I could get a season or two out of the boat before really getting that concerned over. Those spots presently aren't many. However, I remember the way the boat used to look and want to get back to that condition. Thanks again
11-22-2011 01:12 PM
LakeSuperiorGeezer The cooler the storage temperature the longer diesel is usable. Diesel is good for a year or a little more if kept at 68 degrees Fahrenheit. When storage temperature is 86 degrees, it lasts between 6 to 12 months.

When oxygen is present, diesel gets old, and gum and sediment form. The sediment plugs filters and since sediment and gum do not burn well carbon deposits can form on the injectors. I am now just guessing, but the diesel in the fuel lines and injector pump is not exposed to oxygen. If you clean out the fuel tank maybe you will be good to go after replacing belts and raw water impeller. If closed system, replace coolant. Check all hoses and replace them. What have I forgotten? Raw water pump seal. Watch front and rear main seals on the crankshaft for leaks. Replace oil and all filters. Check battery cables for corrosion and new batteries.

Fix the boat where it sits. There is a lot of overhead for a boat yard. Rent, utilities, worker's compensation, taxes, insurance etc. all add up. If you bring workers onsite get your own worker's compensation insurance and liability insurance.
11-22-2011 11:08 AM
sailingfool
Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
The hullwork alone will set you back about $8K. That price is pretty reasonable for a yard to do it, but it doesn't FEEL reasonable, does it? If I was you, I'd hit up Amazon, get a copy of Don Casey's This Old Boat and his Hull Repair guide, and read up over the winter. When you are making up your Christmas list, ask for tape, a sander, sandpaper (Lee Valley has a REALLY good deal on Norton 3X now), a buttload of chip brushes and rollers, scrapers, gloves etc. Anything you can remove from the boat and work on in the comfort of your warm home over the winter, do it now. TRegarding the hull and deck, I would advise taking a week off from work in the spring and getting her done. For $1000 in materials you can have a bright shiny hull and deck that is repairable in the future when you need to touch up the inevitable scuffs and scratches, and you will KNOW how to repair it.
If you cannot afford to have the boat professionally refinished, you obviously can pour in loads of personal time to do it yourself. But understand that the results of skill-demanding refinishing work done by an amateur, like painting topsides or a deck, usually look obviously amateurish, even 20 feet away. IMHO doing a good job on refinishing hull topsides runs right there with painting you car...sure anyone CAN paint their car, but the difference between an amateur and a pro are night and day.
11-22-2011 09:43 AM
sawingknots bj is right,at least to my way of thinking,you can with a gob of money get all your work done at a boat yard but that won't insure its done right,most boat yards pay their employees about $12 bucks an hour then charge you $75,even on a newer well maintained boat theres an awlfully lot that can and will breakdown at exactly the wrong moment,if you've done most of the work/repairs yourself at least you have an idea where to look and how to atleast jury rig it to get you to a safe port,besides half the fun of a boat is working on it,repairing ,improving and making it truely your boat
11-22-2011 09:25 AM
bljones The hullwork alone will set you back about $8K. That price is pretty reasonable for a yard to do it, but it doesn't FEEL reasonable, does it? If I was you, I'd hit up Amazon, get a copy of Don Casey's This Old Boat and his Hull Repair guide, and read up over the winter. When you are making up your Christmas list, ask for tape, a sander, sandpaper (Lee Valley has a REALLY good deal on Norton 3X now), a buttload of chip brushes and rollers, scrapers, gloves etc. Anything you can remove from the boat and work on in the comfort of your warm home over the winter, do it now. TRegarding the hull and deck, I would advise taking a week off from work in the spring and getting her done. For $1000 in materials you can have a bright shiny hull and deck that is repairable in the future when you need to touch up the inevitable scuffs and scratches, and you will KNOW how to repair it.
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