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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Lowering mast has gouged a whole in Deck
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Thread: Lowering mast has gouged a whole in Deck Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-28-2011 01:07 PM
GalileoX I don't know? I have no idea how to do that, cut out the wood . What is it replaced with? More wood? How do you replace it? How is the filler that goes in it's place structurally attached to what is already there? The rest of the coach roof that is. All this trouble from one little damned hole.

Why oh why didn't the PO do something better than silicone caulk. Aaarrgh!
11-28-2011 11:01 AM
JimsCAL Best fix is to remove the rotted wood core rather than trying to dry it out. Even though the deck isn't "soft", there is a good chance water has spread into the deck core, especially since its plywood. Fix it correctly now before it gets worse.
11-28-2011 02:28 AM
Izzy1414
Quote:
Originally Posted by GalileoX View Post
Hmmm...Both very good ideas. I will have to ponder this for a moment but at least I have some options. Thanks everyone.
Just wait awhile, G, you'll probably get a few more good suggestions to add to your options. Then you can weigh each one and decide which is best for you. BTW, the bails I have on my boom and mast are like the ones pictured in Caleb's link. As Faster points out, the vang can exert a lot of pressure ... the one on my mast has deformed somewhat (but not failed). I have another bail on my boom for my mid boom mainsheet that is more stoutly built. I think you could probably find a sufficiently strong bail if that is the route you choose to take.
11-28-2011 12:03 AM
ggray You should consider how much boring that big hole would weaken the deck right beside the mast step. If this could be a problem, perhaps you could modify the mast step by lengthening the plate at the bottom of the mast a bit, as well as the piece bolted to the deck. IOW, make the hinge a little longer so there will be no contact. Easy to spend someone else's money!

I remove water from wood with a little douse of denatured alcohol. Seems to, anyway.
11-27-2011 11:22 PM
GalileoX Hmmm...Both very good ideas. I will have to ponder this for a moment but at least I have some options. Thanks everyone.
11-27-2011 10:26 PM
fallard The deck plate idea is probably an easier and more elegant fix. You have to fix your deck anyway, so why not install something bigger than 2" (more "wiggle" room), like the Beckson deck plate shown at Deck Plate / Inspection Port. The downside is that you would need to borrow a 4 1/2" hole saw, but you could install it temporarily (use tape to get a waterproof seal) and let the plywood dry out. You might then seal the cut edge of the plywood with a low viscosity epoxy and caulk the plate for a permanent installation.

Should you forget to remove the plate and crack it, you would simply buy a new one.

P.S. I have no connection with Beckson or Defender.
11-27-2011 10:17 PM
Faster
Quote:
Originally Posted by GalileoX View Post
If I decide to go with the bail I will cut the tab off.
FWIW I think the tang fitting you have now is better and stronger than a bail. The vang can put some extreme forces on the attachment and I've seen bails literally 'tear out' in extreme conditions.

Since you have the deck damage to deal with anyway the deck plate is likely the simplest, least costly approach.
11-27-2011 09:18 PM
GalileoX Thanks. I think this what I will do.
11-27-2011 09:15 PM
CalebD This is a random picture of a boom bail: Bail, Vang, Boom
They are often used for the mast base of a boom vang as well as on the boom.

Your idea of using a dessicant for drying the repair area sounds fine. A heat gun might help speed up the process too.
11-27-2011 09:10 PM
GalileoX If I decide to go with the bail I will cut the tab off. Is there anything I should bear in mind when doing this. I know that minor nicks can cause an aluminum small aircraft wing spar to fail. I would want to cut it off near flush and finish with a grinder and then sand and polish and repaint the area.
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