|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-11-2006 10:04 PM|
|paulk||Check the main bulkhead where the chainplates are attached as well. On a similar vintage Pearson 36 that I saw being surveyed, the plywood bulkhead core was sandwiched between fiberglass or formica sheets. It was completely rotted to the consistency of wet cardboard. The seller was unaware that his main bulkhead needed to be replaced - it was essentially hidden on both sides by the interior trim. The surveyor found a couple of places to probe that should have been solid and found mush. The shrouds pulling up from their no-longer-solid attachment points could also be causing the deck to rise. On the P36, the price got dropped by about 40% to compensate for the repair costs.|
|09-10-2006 10:26 PM|
|sailingdog||I'd check the NPYOA site. It is probably the best resource on the web for you.|
|09-08-2006 07:06 PM|
|eggemoggineer||Ya. I have a 1974 10M that we just completely stripped and refitted. Someday I'll post photos at www.renegade-cruisers.org Mine never got the chainplate knee retrofit with aluminum boxes to the bulkheads. I toughened up the area with west system and biaxial glass, but it is a weak point, hence the recall of 10M's years ago. Apparently at least one 10M lost its rig due to failure of the chainplate knee.|
|08-31-2006 08:05 AM|
Duke, I do not own a Pearson but I just did a similar repair on my S2 9.1. The starboard main bulkhead was rotted and had to be replaced and the deck around the plates was wet. The web site referred to here is excellent and I would suggest doing a through repair similar to what is shown there.
If you do all of the prep work, such as grinding and cutting yourself and then have a pro do the glass work it may not cost that much. Grinding glass is not a lot of fun, get your self a full face respirator.
As for the deck you should be able to cut the bottom laminate out and remove the wet and rotted balsa and replace from below. Actualy simpler than it sounds. The first time it really blows you want to know this repair is rock solid.
|08-31-2006 07:08 AM|
Originally Posted by SailorMitch
The authority on things Pearson. Has helped us keep our 10M in shape.
|08-30-2006 04:17 PM|
|SailorMitch||Yep, travrn hit the nail with his head. THE authority on all things Pearson 10M is the illustrious Dan Pfeiffer. Heck, same goes for the P-26. At any rate, check out www.pearsoninfo.net for Dan's handiwork.|
|08-30-2006 03:34 PM|
About your chainplates
I too own a 10M Hull #22. Be sure to see Dan Pfeiffer's site regarding 10Ms. http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/10m.htm There is great info on how to check & repair your chainplates and attachments.
|06-02-2001 03:38 AM|
Thank You so much for the helpful information since this is my new boat Iam new to it.
It is the same year as yours a Pearson10M 1974. Iam located in Baltimore are you close by? It would be nice to see each others boat
PS Have you taken yours off shore for cruising? That is my intentions
|06-01-2001 12:07 PM|
I too own a 74 10M.
You may have a delamination problem in the deck core due to water leaking around the deck fittings. Does the swelling feel "squishy" when you step on it ? The connections of the chainplates to hull are so massive I can''t believe they are the problem. If the core is water logged you might try drilling a series of little holes to let it dry out ( use a heat gun to acclerate) and then forcing epoxy into the core. Also, remove and rebed all deck fittings in the area looking for signs of wet wood. I''d try that before cutting open the deck and removing the plywood filler, although that is the preferred, albeit expensive method.
|05-28-2001 03:22 PM|
This may be a very good reason to begin checking references of marine surveyors in the area. Before doing that, consider visiting the NPOYA web site (sorry, the URL isn''t nearby but a search will turn them up) as they have a forum where Pearson owners can pose questions like yours.
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