|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-20-2012 09:51 PM|
C&C 30 MK1
I guess I will be needing to look at my new old boats smile as well. Hope is not got one. Nice to know there is a need to look though.
|02-20-2012 04:30 PM|
Originally Posted by SPC View Post
|02-20-2012 03:21 PM|
If I were you, I would test whatever torque wrench you decide to use. The only bolts that I have stripped in my car hobby work have been done with a torque wrench. I'm not sure how you strip a 1 inch bolt but I'm pretty sure that it would be done with a torque multiplier and these would be bolts that you really don't want to strip.
A 350 test would be accomplished by hanging your mother-in-law one foot from the bolt (axis of rotation) or you could use a 175 lb person 2 feet from the bolt or do the math for whatever weight and breaker bar that you have using a fixed test bolt.
Just kidding about the mother-in-law BTW, mine is a wonderful woman and very svelte.
|02-20-2012 02:48 PM|
C & C 29-2 Keel Bolts
The company that I used to work for made these keels for C & C.
The keel drawings show the following bolts...
1 bolt - 1/2 " diameter
3 bolts - 1" diameter
1 bolt - 3/4 " diameter
No torques are given
The drawings are dated August 1982
Shows a keel weight of 2711 pounds
Drawings shoe design sections for the keel if anyone wants to fair a keel
|02-17-2012 07:05 PM|
|chef2sail||Like I said before join the c an c group owners on line. The website has PDF files of all c and c manuals to download. Cost 25 dollars|
|02-17-2012 05:13 PM|
|Capt Ed||Thanks MSmith10, thanks for your input, & thanks to all who helped me with their positive replies on my thread, it is much appreciated, Ed|
|02-17-2012 04:42 PM|
Be careful with that torque multiplier. That's a lot of force- torque up in steps like a cylinder head. Of course, if a keel bolt snaps, better on the hard than on the water. You may want to remove the nuts (1 at a time) before tightening down to caulk around the bolts if there's any space around them as they pass thru the keel stub. There should be large washers between the nuts and the epoxy bed of the keel stub- if not, make some plates to seat the nuts down.
If you have any separation at the keel/hull joint, clean it out with a narrow tool (hacksaw blade?) and caulk with 4200 (or 5200 is probably OK here) before tightening.
|02-17-2012 03:49 PM|
Hello Sandusky Sailor, thank you so much for your very specific information on the C&C 29 MK11 keel bolts. I made a special 100 mile trip to my boat location today, & sure enough, there are (5) bolts, (2) are 3/4" & the other
(3) are 1" which will require a 1-1/8" socket for the 3/4" size bolt & 1-1/2" socket for the 1" size. I will be renting the appropriate torque multiplier to do the job, the 3/4" bolt will be torqued to 250 ft.lbs. & the 1" will be torqued to 350ft.lbs.
I have also aquired the boat manual & also the engine manual, so everything is just peachy for me now, thanks to everyone for their input, Ed
|02-17-2012 09:21 AM|
|Sanduskysailor||Here is a better illustration of what I'm talking about. There are 2 very small drain holes. Rain goes down inside of the mast and gets in the sealed compartment around mast step mounting bolts. The drain holes are easily clogged and must be opened up for winter storage.|
|02-17-2012 08:39 AM|
|Sanduskysailor||The pic didn't seem to load. Here it is again.|
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