|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-24-2012 12:18 AM|
|jcase12||I just got started! Hopefully I will have the interior removed (rot) by the end of this weekend and all the deck hardware off to inspect the core in those area and get ready for rebedding. Pictures of your work would be great and I'll throw up some of mine so far tonight.|
|02-23-2012 11:23 PM|
|mxracer19||Im actually redoing a bayliner buccaneer 200 interior from completely bare...the po had gutted the boat for racing. I too had a rotted bulkhead and when I replaced it I made a pattern from luan and fabricated the actual bh from 3/4 exterior ply weted with epoxy with 2 coats on the edges. Ill post some pics eventually but my plan is to paint the interior white with cherry vaneer in key areas. How far are you into your restoration?|
|02-21-2012 02:56 AM|
Originally Posted by jcase12 View Post
A few small internal voids or "boats" on the faces are no problem for construction inside a boat. Regular exterior ply uses waterproof glue that can withstand soaking - do you plan to boil your bulkheads? You can cover the ply with any pretty surface you wish, just include their thickness when you choose your base plywood thickness.
I think you will find very little "marine" ply used in boat interiors. It is very desirable for building dinghys and so forth but simply added expense for what you are planning. at $hundreds a sheet compared to $10's a sheet, it's no choice at all to me.
An all glassed interior would require a lot of finishing work to smooth it out. If you want low maintenance, I'd use high pressure laminate (Arborite). You will be reducing the boats saleability though IMHO - people like wood on sailboats. I'd face things in teak or cherry veneer - something like that. It's not very expensive to do using 1/8" material.
Don't bother with "marine" paint inside. The high price is due to all the UV inhibitors, abrasion resistance and so forth which are not needed inside. Regular bathroom paint works very well - it has some mildewcides in it for damp environments. Use semi-gloss - it has a nicer sheen than gloss and hides problems better.
P.S. if you are determined to do a "glass" interior, use something like 10 oz. cloth, not biaxial or roving. 10oz. drapes and lays very well and if you heavily resinate it, requires minimal filling to bury the weave. The coarser fabrics are designed to build laminate thickness, not provide a fine finish.
|02-20-2012 11:54 PM|
|jcase12||Thx for all the advice I wil definately pick up that book. Also a big thx for the advice of the bulkhead material that is considerably less $$ which of course is always good. Do you think that wood is good for rebuilding the "Furniture" for the interior as long as I prep it like you mention. Also I was thinking of coating it in fiber and finishing it with white epoxy paint (marine grade) to decrease the maintenance of wood finishes in the long term and brighten up the cabin (and make cleanup easier). does this seem ok?|
|02-20-2012 09:38 PM|
Originally Posted by jcase12 View Post
IGNORE his "gasket" method for sealing deck hardware - use the potting and countersink method with butyl tape you will find detailed on SailNet (somewhere )
Track down a local consignment shop that handles boat gear and check it often for bargains.
Watch Craigslist etc. routinely for other bargains.
Have fun. We'll be here when you have questions.
|02-20-2012 07:01 PM|
|mitiempo||The fillet allows the glass to take a fair curve instead of a sharp angle between the bulkhead and the hull. If you use foam as drawn above it can minimize the epoxy for the fillet, if not eliminate it. The fillet doesn't add much strength. The biax roving does.|
|02-20-2012 05:44 PM|
Is is common to tab the bulkhead as well as run a fillet?
I think I probably read that in a Don Casey book.
|02-20-2012 03:27 PM|
Gary Mull designed some good boats. I think it is also called a Buccaneer 22.
Specs on the US 22:
US 22 sailboat on sailboatdata.com
|02-20-2012 11:28 AM|
Thanks for the pic. I am not sure how to describe it but the current mount for the stays has a slot in the plate that the flat bar goes thru but does not attach in anyway to so it must be sealed. But I am sure it flexes allot under load opening a gap.Ill try to get agood ic of it and post it later this week.
As far as the keel coring I probaly should have callled it bedding. It is some type of very hard close grain wood bedded into the fiberglass that the keel bolts go thru.
|02-20-2012 02:32 AM|
Good plywood is probably the best for the bulkheads, marine ply like occume or meranti the best. I would use a bit of foam as a spacer between the hull and the bulkhead edge and fillet and glass, using biaxial roving and epoxy. See diagram below.
I am not really sure what you mean about the chainplates as there will have to be holes for the bolts through the deck anyway.
There is core in the keel area?
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|