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Single Handed Sailing

30K views 34 replies 24 participants last post by  ahab211 
#1 ·
Hi,

I have some sailing experience and am starting to sail single handed in a Catalina 22. I would like some basic pointers or refrerences on how to:

1) Holding the Rudder in place
2) Set the sails
3) Trimming the sails (can it be done without setting the rudder)
4) Setting a reef (I have jiffy reefing
5) Necessary hardware changes

Thanks,

Mike Cohen
 
#2 ·
MIke,

Just sold my Catalina 22. Wonderful little boat. I sailed it a lot singlehanded over the past 10 years.

Main thing for me was a rather expensive but well-worth-it hardware upgrade: I replaced the sheet winches with a pair of Lewmar self-tailing winches. Made sailing it alone much easier, since I didn't have to tail the winches.

Great boat. Have fun.

Bill
 
#3 ·
Single handing a smallish boat like a C22 should be no problem.
Staying on board is job one. Find a way to secure yourself, especially in any kind of seas, and of course wear a good PFD at all times.

The biggest problem with boats this size is that if you tie off the tiller and then move to do a task your weight upsets the trim enough that the boat starts to turn.

If an autopilot is not on the shopping list, a line can be rigged from the tiller, out around the foredeck and back to the tiller. This can allow you to adjust the helm from anywhere you are likely to be on the boat. Put enough friction in the setup that you can pull it but it will stay put if let go.

Self tailers do, as described above, make trimming the headsail a one handed operation, albeit slower. In lieu of that costly fix, usually there is enough pressure on the tiller from weather helm to brace it against your leg and trim and tail the sail. Also, slow down your turns in the tacks and you will likely get the sail in almost all the way without a winch handle.

For gybes and off-the-wind tack changes, steering with the tiller between your knees and handling sheets works well.

Whether to run all the lines aft is a decision that must be made as well. Typically halyards, vangs and sometimes reef lines are led aft. Leading reeflines aft can lead to excessive friction that makes it difficult to fully put a reef in. Whichever path you take, as a singlehander make sure you can reach and secure the halyards, and the reef tack and clew lines from one location. The simplest way to do this is to leave them all on the mast and near the gooseneck. (less hardware and simpler rigging) However it requires leaving the helm for the entire operation so some effective form of self steering is required. Of course, an auto pilot will do that for you.
 
#4 ·
I sail my Compass 28 single handed. The trick is to take each manouvre slow and as easy as you can. I recommend investing in a tiller pilot; makes life a whole lot easier.

The most difficult part I found in single handed work was not the sailing, but the bringing the boat back alongside the dock/finger in the marina. Practice this a number of times in different conditions; again, slow and easy is the trick.

Enjoy and stay safe.
 
#5 ·
Rule #1 is to thiink through what you are going to do, before you do it. For myself, the first money I would put into the boat would be a TillerPilot. The self-tailing winches are great, but keeping the boat on track when you have to let go of the tiller is a higher priority. With the Cat22, your jib sheets are already right at hand, so that's a plus. You don't say how this boat is setup, ie: roller furling headsail, lines led aft, tiller extentsion, but these are things that will make singlehanding easier. Another thing to think about is, when the winds are high, or expected to be, reef down before leaving the dock. It's much easier to shake out a reef than to put it in on the water.

Having started on a 21 footer, then 26, and now a 32, it's the planning ahead I find the most important part. That, and taking your time.

Regards,
 
#6 ·
I had tiller steering on my Dufour 27 that I sailed about 10 years ago. I used the bungy gadget that slides back and forth to hold the tiller in place while I set sails. An autopilot is very nice but not critical if you plan to single hand locally.

I also singlehanded my Hunter 37 Cherubini extensively. I think PB is right, hit the reefs early and plan for the unexpected. When it comes to docking, again, its not difficult. Just look for the wind direction and grab the rope that will hold you in the slip first. In other words, if the wind is on the nose, grab your bow lines. (Assuming your are back into the slip). Tie them off and then work on your stern lines.

In my opinion, singlehanding in terms of difficulty is overrated. Most people singlehand their boats most of the time and just do not realize it. For example, when you sail with you friends or even your spouse, you tend to do everything anyway.
 
#7 ·
An underrated trick for non-autopilot singlehanders in light to moderate air is heaving-to, with main mostly in, jib backed, and tiller tied to leeward. I don't know the Catalina 22, but most boats will jog along at minimal speed and more or less hold course.

This frees you up to go below, fix something, whatever, without having to worry as much about nearby land or traffic.

Easiest way to back the jib is to just tack without releasing the old sheet.
 
#8 ·
Also, a key thing to do is to get as much time in on the boat under varied conditions—light air, heavy air, calm seas, confused seas, etc—so you will have a good idea of how she will react in a given situation. The more familiar you are with your boat, and the more experience you have with her, the easier it will be to single-hand.
 
#9 ·
Mike-
On reefing, the best advice I've ever been given was "If you're thinking that maybe you should reef...YOU SHOULD HAVE ALREADY DONE IT."

Most of us don't realize that the boat will be faster, as well as drier, by reefing before you think you need to. And, of course, reefing will be faster and safer in lower wind.

Often your polars (you can usually get polars from other owners, or from USSA) will show that you should drop from a 150 to a 100, and/or put the first reef in the main, in speeds as low as 12-14 knots. Yes, sometimes it really is that low and you can pick up speed by doing it. (I don't know about your boat, just generalizing.)

If you can't get polars, experiment. Reef and unreef, get practiced at it, and compare boat speeds and wind speeds.
 
#29 ·
Mike-
Often your polars (you can usually get polars from other owners, or from USSA) will show that you should drop from a 150 to a 100, and/or put the first reef in the main, in speeds as low as 12-14 knots. Yes, sometimes it really is that low and you can pick up speed by doing it. (I don't know about your boat, just generalizing.)

If you can't get polars, experiment. Reef and unreef, get practiced at it, and compare boat speeds and wind speeds.
This is the first time I have heard the term "polars." What does it mean? What are polars?

Richard
 
#10 ·
BTW, if you've practiced reefing, you can get the time it takes to reef down to a few minutes. Pre-marking the halyards, for the reefing point heights helps you drop the main the right amount without having to raise the main much once you've put the reef in.

Dee Caffari was able to drop the main and make every reef on Aviva in just twenty minutes single handed.
 
#11 ·
C-22 single handed

I routinely sail my C-22 single handed on a midwestern lake and all of the advice above is useful. Lots of practice while executing moves slowly under relatively gentle conditions will make a world of difference in your level of confidence, and that will pay benefits when things get more "interesting". Also, be sure to learn to heave to...before coming in to the dock, I heave to, release the main sheet and drop the main. The boat is so stable I'm able to get the sail ties and cover on before coming close to the dock and without ever leaving the cockpit. That makes life lots simpler when docking.

One tip I use that I didn't see above is to lead the leeward jib sheet around the leeward winch and then across the cockpit to the windward winch, where it gets cleated. This makes moving around the cockpit a bit clumsy, but (assuming you sit on the windward side to steer, the sheet is much closer to hand.

Bob F
 
#12 ·
Auto-Pilot....Number 1

I have been single handing my Apache 37 for 20 years. The most important tool I have found is a dependal auto-pilot (which I bought 20 yrs ago and still use). I bought that instead of roller/furling and have never regretted it. Autopilot lets you go below, make lunch, go to the bathroom, etc. On a long non-stop trip (Annapolis to Marblehead), it gives you tremendous freedom. Even on a day trip with non-sailors, you have the freedom to sail the boat without having to draft an uneducated crew to do stuff. Anyway, autopilot is the last thing I would give up on my boat.

Anyway, good luck. Have fun.

Moe Giguere
Crishelle, Chris Craft Apache 37 Sloop
 
#14 ·
I routinely single-hand my Oday 23, a boat similar in size and temperment to the Catalina 22. I made three changes to my boat that make it a pleasure to single-hand. First and most important: roller furling. Can't say enough good things about it. Having to go out onto the foredeck of my small boat with no one on the tiller in rough conditions was at best a very unpleasant experience. At worst, it can be disasterous. This upgrade was worth every penny. Upgrade #2 was a "tiller tamer". This $25 gadget is terrific. It holds the tiller so I can lean back and relax or go below and take care of some business. There are various versions of these devices on the market, but I have the one made by Davis Instruments. The device is less efficient at holding the boat into the wind when I go to the mast to raise the main, but its much better than nothing. And, it works terrific on a reach or a beat. Upgrade #3: "Winchers". Those blue rubber rings that turn a plain non-tailing winch into a reasonable facsimile of a self-tailer. They work very nicely, although if you expect perfection you will be disappointed. On rare occasions, they do slip, but they are a great value. Also, invest in a good quality self-inflating PFD. IMHO, one should always wear a PFD when solo, and you don't want to give yourself any excuses for not wearing one.
 
#15 ·
I'm very new to all of this, but I have found that taking time to think out next moves is key. When I first started sailing I had no idea how I would leave and hit moorings, docks, etc... single handed... but now just by planning my moves ahead of time, moving steady and not rushing, and stopping to think about conditions I seem to get through most tight spots without much trouble.

I like SurfEsq's comments... it's true, you end up single handing even when you have a crowded boat!

:)

-Mike
 
#16 ·
I think I would simplify the whole operation and lead halyards aft and add single line reefing with slightly oversized blocks to reduce friction. It isn't that expensive to do these couple of up grades, and the mainsail on a
Catalina 22 isn't large enough to present any real problems.

I think self tailing winches are over kill. Unless your flying a 180% Genny you should even need a winch handle.
 
#17 ·
Whilst I concur with the previous posters, I firmly believe that the single most important thing about single-handing is to get to know your vessel!
If necessary, take a few weeks just doing 'circuits and bumps'. Run your warps from various cleating points and see how she pulls alongside. You may find that if you tie off to a midships cleat, then as you approach the pontoon, drop the warp over a mooring cleat,and tie the helm hard over towards the pontoon whilst still powering slow ahead. This action/counter action will bring the vessel gently alongside. Once again, practise makes perfect. This I have proved to work with everything from RIBs to 1500 DWT
Once you have become a part of the vessel, and have gained sufficient confidence to go out on the blue - Always make sure that someone knows where you are going, and when you can be expected to come ashore.
Is your Coastguard aware of your vessel, and have you informed them about your intentions?
I am not trying to teach granny how to suck eggs, because all of this should be second nature to us all.
I have been a lone sailor for many years, and I think that one of the reasons that I have survived so long is that, until I become a working part of the boat, I am not ready to go anywhere!
There are old sailors, and there are bold sailors. There are very few old bold sailors!
The main thing is to enjoy!
;) ;) ;)
ESD
 
#18 ·
"Is your Coastguard aware of your vessel, and have you informed them about your intentions?" Which brings up a good point, to have a float plan and to leave it with someone.

Some years ago I couldn't make a delivery trip so my friend left the float plan with me. The trip was an estimated 7 days, and he figured it would take tens days at the outside, max, even allowing for the worst wx. Well...a lot of small things went wrong, but on the ninth night I called the USCG to ask them, if I had to report a boat overdue, what exactly would be involved?

It turns out there are MULTIPLE pages to fill out for a search form, including detailed information like hull color and deck color, that sometimes the holder of the float plan just won't know. So...when you leave a float plan, try to find out what the USCG would want for a full S&R report, and make sure that you've left enough information behind.

"It's a boat. I guess maybe a white boat?" just doesn't help much.<G>

They honestly don't mind folks calling up--or showing up--to ask safety questions during normal business hours.

On my friend's trip...first the alternator went out. Then a hurricane came through. Then the engine packed up. They wound up making land about 500 miles off course, because that was the only place they could get to. Safe & sound, but thoroughly off schedule, very late on the tenth day.
 
#19 ·
Float plan-YES

Just wanted to add my 2 cts to hellosailor's thoughts. I believe that this is easily overlooked by many, myself included.
We probably would tell somebody, "Hey, I"m going to swim across the lake". And that person would keep an eye out for us, grow concerned if they didn't see us, etc...
But, this time of year, I just hop on the boat and away I go. Well, it won't be much longer before our water will be down around 50 degrees and that's about 50 mins survival time. Do I really want to wait for someone to notice I'm capsized? Someone thinking, "he ought to be back by now" is pretty cheap insurance. Heck, we do it when we go to the grocery store, why should my macho bs preclude me from doing it for a quick sail? I like my macho bs but stupidity always trumps it!
 
#20 ·
nolatom said:
An underrated trick for non-autopilot singlehanders in light to moderate air is heaving-to, with main mostly in, jib backed, and tiller tied to leeward. I don't know the Catalina 22, but most boats will jog along at minimal speed and more or less hold course.

This frees you up to go below, fix something, whatever, without having to worry as much about nearby land or traffic.

Easiest way to back the jib is to just tack without releasing the old sheet.
This is a good suggestion, and I do it all the time while single-handing my Sabre 30. One addition is to start your heave-to from a port tack, then when you finally get it set, you'll be on a starboard tack. This gives you a higher status in the pecking order of status (starboard over port). Of course, you still need to keep a watch for leeward sailboats on the same tack, for vessels that are restricted in maneuverability, etc., but at least it's something.
 
#21 ·
Single handed sailing...

Hi,
I am a 56 yr old woman ( 5'0"), who "solos" my Bristol 30 footer.:D

I can not do it without my autopilot:( . I set my auto pilot into the wind
to hoist and bring down sails.

Second, for practice when I was just learning how to handle my boat solo,
I worked my way up to gale force winds. Every time there was a good wind I jumped on board to get the experience. I would accept help to come with me, at first, but found I always leaned on someone when they were there. Therefore, not to lean on crutches, I would go out, knowing they were on shore (ALWAYS:eek: have a handheld radio for safety), and made myself better by doing. I always encouraged myself to just do it.

I also used the wheel brake to hold my position, if you don't have a wheel, then may I suggest getting an autopilot for a tiller.

I have been solo sailing for 3 years.

Hope that helps,
Katheryn
 
#23 ·
Mike,
Late post but hopefully helpful. I have a number of years experience singlehanding on SF Bay and Coastal Pacific. Where you're singlehanding makes a big difference. Most of my single handing was in a Catalina 27, have sailed Catalina 22's a fair amount, currently sailing a Hudson Force 50 (57').

I found that the many technics to tie down /remote control the tiller without using a tillerpilot (autopilot) were a big limiter to conditions that you can sail in singlehanded.

Both the C27 and the C22 are not good heaving-to boats. They can be made to heave-to but they end up broad reaching and wander more than a boat with more keel. If you're in any kind of waves/wind, the possibility of an accidental jibe is too great for a single-handed crew. I rigged my C27 with main halyard led back along with two sets of reef lines back to the cockpit. I could reef in about minute with this setup including going to the second reef in a good blow. Run lines/fittings on the main boom just aft of your reef points (jiffy reefing). I ran separate lines to forward and aft reef points because with some resistance on the sail and single line reefing system will sometimes hang up. I had rope clutchs on the cabin top for these lines although you can use cleats to save some cost. I led the jib halyard back to the cockpit as well.

While single-handing, I'm always conservative on sail area. On SF Bay (often picks up to 15-20 knots) I would seldom set out with a genoa. Usually would use a conservative jib that I didn't need to reef. As you probably know, reefing the main on a C27 or C22 makes the boat a real beauty to handle in pretty good winds.

I tried using those "convert your regular winch to a self-tailing winch" with poor results. I ended up eventually getting self-tailers for the jib winches although I sailed a lot without them as well, handling the tiller most of the time with one hand or knees while trimming with the other.

I can't say how much different you're singlehanding life will be if you have a tiller pilot (like the Raymarine ST1000). Makes all the difference in the world. You can't really depend on them to steer in any conditions requiring large deflections on with the tiller quickly, but you can easily trim up high and the have the autopilot hold you for a minute while you're reefing.

My humble opinion is that to single hand, you need to set up the boat so that you don't leave the cockpit. It's too easy on this size boat to hurt yourself on the obstacle course outside of the cockpit (and outside the boat).

Once you get the processes down that you need to use, the sailing single handed part really is a lot of fun and rewarding. One of the processes that I still scramble a lot with while single handing is setting and weighing anchor. I don't like moving fast while single handing, but a crowded anchorage kinda forces you to sprint back and forth.

Hope this helps,

Jim
 
#24 ·
I single hand in Buzzard's Bay on a Hunter 25, use a shock cord to hold your tiller arm in place but keep in-mind if you fall off your boat may keep going. Make sure you have a roller furler (I don't), you have jiffy reefing so your lines should be all-set, make sure you have a hook if you use a mooring. One hand should be on the tiller/pedestal and one on the hook to grab the mooring line, I wait until it passes to my Laboard side. Keep a fm/am radio on board or you may start talking to yourself, let many folks know where you are when you are leaving and when you expect to return and keep a cell phone on your person in a plastic well sealed bag in case you go overboard, keep a life preserver on and if possibly keep a line on you.

Have fun.
 
#25 ·
Don't worry too much aboiut anything when you're sailing alone - it's not much different from having crew. When you want to tack, loosen off the mainsheet while you head the boat into the wind. Just before it rounds over - let go of the tiller/wheel and loosen the jibsheet from the windward cleat. Now shove the tiller hard over to complete your turn, sheet in the jib and slowly sheet the main in. When it comes time to dock - well - be careful ! :)
 
#26 · (Edited)
As a general rule, you should always raise the mainsail first, and take it down first.

Most sailboats will sail nicely on a close reach, (about halfway between a beam reach and a beat) using a simple tiller tamer or similar device to hold the course. If the boat heads up a little too close to the wind, the mainsail will luff and the boat will bear away from the wind. If the boat bears away too much, the increasing force on the mainsail will kick the stern to leeward, and the boat will come up gently to windward. Sailing in this manner, the boat will be sailing at low speed and with very little heeling, which will make it much easier for you to move around the decks. (From my description, it might sound like the boat will be oscillating on and off the wind a lot, but the motion is much more gentle than that, and it really doesn't oscillate significantly.)

If you raise the jib first, the boat won't self-steer very easily, and it'll go much faster, bounding over the waves. It'll also heel much more, making it more difficult for you to raise the mainsail.

Thus, if you raise the mainsail first, and set a tiller tamer to steer a course as described above, the boat will sail indefinitely, unattended, allowing you as much time as you need to hank on and raise the jib, tilt up the outboard motor, untangle any foul-up, or do anything else you need to do. Of course it's important that you keep a sharp eye out constantly for traffic nearby, while you're rigging the sail.

When you raise or lower the jib, the boat doesn't need to be head-to-wind. The jib will go up and come down nicely on a close reach. If your jib halyard is led aft to the cockpit, then you can steer the boat head-to-wind and simply let the jib fall onto the foredeck. If your jib halyard is cleated at the mast, then you have to let the jib luff while the boat is sailing on the mainsail alone on a close reach, and go to the foredeck and catch the jib with one hand while you gradually release the jib halyard with the other hand.
 
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