|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-04-2006 11:42 AM|
Thanks Sailingdog. I was wondering what kind of clutches they might be., so I could add one that matches.
I think you are right, I could add a bullseye but I would still need to run the line down to the deck level before running it under the dodger. To do that I would need a block just ahead of the dodger. The pictures don't show it but the dodger will run just between the traveller and set of clutches and the traveller sits about 4" above the cabin top. I may even have to move the clutches back some to make room for a block.
I just call it a California Dodger because a canvas outfit in New York (http://www.peckenpaugh.com/Dodgers.htm) calls them that and I live in California. I admit they probably call them that more for promotional purposes than for any real distinct differences between them. Below is an excerpt from their web page explaining the differences.
Traditional Dodger: Traditional dodgers are just that. They are an old design that has sufficed for many years. They are generally a two bow frame and a one piece canvas cover. They were designed to fold forward out of the way when not in use. Unfortunately this puts folds and wrinkles in the clear vinyl windows and renders them unusable to see through.
California Dodger: The California dodger is a newer design dodger. With its rigid two piece frame, roll up front window and removable sides, it is a much more versatile product. The removable side curtains and roll up front curtain offers the advantage of more airflow through the cockpit and cabin on warm days while still providing shade over the companionway. When curtains are in place, it allows for protection from the rain and spray, same as the traditional dodger design. Also the removable and "roll up" clear window material isn't damaged from folding.
|10-04-2006 09:35 AM|
I don't see why you can't simple remove the cam cleats that are attached to the end block on the traveler and run the lines through a bullseye fairlead, under the dodger and to a camcleat mounted on the aft end of the cabin top for the traveller.
That would probably be the easiest way to do it, and still retain full function of the traveller. It doesn't represent a tripping hazard of any kind either.
BTW, why are you calling it a California Dodger, how does that differ from any other kind of dodger?? And how do you like the line clutches, they appear to be Garhauers.
|10-04-2006 12:32 AM|
|PBzeer||Yes, sorry, thought that was evident.|
|10-03-2006 11:42 PM|
I take it you ran the lines outside of the dodger?
|10-03-2006 11:35 PM|
|PBzeer||I have a similar problem with my traveller and dodger. Having a slotted toerail though, I removed the cam cleats from the ends of the traveller, then ran the lines to blocks on the toerail and then to the rear of the cockpit with cam cleats. The down side is you have to be careful of the lines if you leave the cockpit, but simply paying attention takes care of that.|
|10-03-2006 11:23 PM|
|carlosthedog||Thanks for your suggestion Ray. It is a possibility I could do mine like yours even though the set up is different. I took some pictures of my deck and traveler. It doesn't show it well but the traveler is about 4" (10 cm) above the deck. I was thinking thinking of replacing the cam cleat with a bulls eye and mounting an upright lead block just below the traveler then run the line aft through either a clutch or cam cleat. The weakest point would be the lead block, I'd have to calculate the forces on it to ensure I got a strong enough one.|
|09-09-2006 02:57 AM|
I don't know if this will help but here's the simple fix I did on my 1985 Beneteau Idylle 2005. This old Beneteau is very sensitive to the traveller and needs frequent trimming. The traveller was originally configured with an integrated jamb cleat at each stop end and the working ends were led around the outside of the dodger back to the cockpit. I had to reach around the the side of the dodger to uncleat each time an adjustment was required - a real pain.
When I put my new dodger on, I simply took the cleat out of the stop end (actually smashed it out with a hammer and screw driver) so it was just operating as a turning bock and led the working end through a heavily reinforced eye in the dodger's window to a new cam cleat mounted on the cabin top. It works fine. You can also see in the photo that I upgraded the purchase with a small double block system and now I can move the system under load with very little effort.
Hope this helps.
Ray - Sydney Australia
|09-07-2006 11:51 PM|
travelr lines and dodger
Thanks for your reply and your ideas. I have seen some Ericsons with the traveler right in front of the cabin entry. Of course this would make installation of a dodger impossible. I have seen some Ericsons with the traveler right in front of the wheel. A purest would probably want it that way but, alas I'm a softy that is in it more for comfortable cruising. This weekend I'll grab my digital camera and take some pictures to post.
|09-07-2006 11:19 PM|
Without actually seeing the layout it's difficult to suggest the best way to approach this. Certainly trying to rerun the control lines so that they cleanly run under the dodger along with the other halyards and mainsheet sounds like a plan.
I don't remember the exact configuration of the E30+ cockpit, but another possibility might be to relocate the traveller/mainsheet assembly towards the end of the boom, behind the dodger. This does complicate the cockpit area a bit, but avoids the issues you have now, and as an added bonus makes trimming the main much easier from the cockpit (accessibility and mechanical advantage) This would be a bit of a project - you need to do it right with the proper fittings and attachments.
A friend has an E32-2, with a cabintop traveller and the control lines do run through the dodger windows. The traveller is quite short and I suspect he doesn't make much use of it.
|09-07-2006 10:53 PM|
traveler lines and hardware
I recently purchased a 1984 Ericson 30+. My wife insists that we add a California Dodger to it. I located a reputable canvas guy to build my dodger. One of the details he wants to know is if I want to run the traveler lines through the dodger. The present configuration would require zippers to allow me to first pull up on the lines to disengage the cam cleats. I want to avoid this and any zippers. Most of the other lines will run under the dodger and through a clutch. My present thought is to run each of the traveler lines through some sort of block system. Maybe just an eye on the traveler then use a stand up block bolted to the cabin top then through a clutch.
Since I'm new to sailing and all the hardware associated with sailboats, I'm not sure if this is the best approach. Leaving the system as is would mean unzipping and rezipping both lines each time I wanted to reset the car. Does anyone have any ideas and specifically what hardware to use?