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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-10-2012 05:16 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

I will look into “1980 Beneteau First, 30ft. in excellent condition. Two suits of sails(one new). Brand new reconditioned Yanmar diesel engine (zero hours). Auto pilot never used. New head stay and roller reefing foil. V.H.F. radio, full enclosed head and galley. Cockpit cushions and bumpers anchor and chain. Sleeps seven. Reasonably priced at $8,000.”
Reading about her, I have found that is not the best model. Recommended models are start with 34’ footer and up. The guy owned it for 6 years and as you see did some work. I read somewhere that Beneteau First had stress fatigue cracks and keel is iron and needs to have 4 layers of epoxy. If I like her, I will definitely do survey. This is not the fastest boat, but I can liveaboard on this one. As I have mentioned before, I would like to shuttle from Cape Cod (MA) to Miami. First time I would like to go through inter coast. I can’t find any information on the ICW to go. Is anybody can outline navigation? Thank you in advance.
04-10-2012 11:35 AM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

So what happened with this?
03-26-2012 09:55 AM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

One thing to remember is that the price range your looking in are 30 year old boats. There is nothing wrong with this my J 29 is an 83. If you find a boat has some wet deck like you did on the Oday 30 then you have a few choices do nothing and the wet core will get wetter, get the area repaired and live with how it looks or get it repaired and re do the entire deck. I went went with the fixing my wet balsa core and having the deck repainted. It is not cheap and you could spend $5K-8K real fast but there are ways to do it cheaper. If you had a shop fix the wet core you could then use Kiwi Grip for the non skid and then paint the smooth portions with some 2 part polyurethane. Its not all that hard to do, I did it on a previous J 29.

I really think you need to settle in on a design look at all of them and find which one you like best and the search for the best one of that design. Remember some boats were made to be like condos down below and some were made to sail very well. Everything is a trade off and the designers are trying to squeeze allot of space into 30 feet. Key thing to do is to actually sit in the head like your using it. The head on the 28.5 seemed to be made to fit a 13 year old my shoulders almost touched the walls on both sides.
03-25-2012 10:32 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

"Spider cracks" on older boats are not at all unusual, and they rarely penetrate beyond the surface gel coat to allow water into the deck coring.. if indeed water is getting through these cracks they are far beyond the normal to-be-expected 'crazing'.

Worrying about hauling the boat to fix certain issues like seacocks is not really an issue - you're going to have to haul her anyway, and chances are (normally) you can negotiate part of that cost with the seller since it's something a proper survey should bring to the fore in any event.

Sellers with 'firm' prices on old boats that have some issues will succumb to reality eventually.. so maybe don't write him off just yet. At the same time there are lots of boats out there these days..
03-25-2012 09:34 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

Surprisingly guy was very supportive and I spent 2 and half hours going through the list. Tapping the service of the deck, I found a few places where balsa has been damaged from the leaks and a few seacocks did not work. He admitted that she has leaks around the mast. I have seen a few spider webs cracks which exposed the balsa to water. Overall its very clean and sound boat, but no way I will pay $15k for her. I offered $13K but he was firm on 15K. Apparently he feels no presser to sell. Not a motivated seller. I do not know how to fix spider cracks and not sure how much damaged the deck. To replace seacocks she has to be taken out of water. I would say, I have a good time and learned a lot from the guy. He has explained to me every pipe and every piece of equipment. Most important, I have surprised myself with patient and determination to found problems on her. The owner actually agreed with me on every issue I had found. After all he basically said that the boat is not perfect and I should not expect it for the price. So I will keep looking…
03-25-2012 08:05 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

Looks like that will cover it, "GET IT SURVEYED" this alone will answer all your questions. It will cost about $500.00 or so for a survey. Get a surveyor who is a sailor be there when it's surveyed and check out the surveyor ask for references. Plus when the surveyor finds problems and he will this is a tool to get the price to where it should be. It is a buyers market if it comes through the survey ok and the asking price is $15K I would offer maybe $10K and buy it for around $12K. You can always go up on your offer but once you make that offer you can't go back down. IT IS A BUYERS MARKET, it will need new sail's and all new running rigging. I would bet it has all original sail's I would get a quote from a sailmaker for new sail's.
03-24-2012 10:46 AM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

Ok, common sense coming back, thanks to you, guys. Today I’m going to look into 1982 O’Day 30’. According to owner, for last 10 years, it was barely used, only regularly maintained. It’s around 15k. May be I can bring to 14K. I will go through the boat using list of checks I have compiled from different sources. This type of boat should not have many problems, according to reviews.

Stick with fiberglass construction if you're a beginner -- most wooden boats require a good deal more maintenance and care, and damage and rot in wooden boats can be hard to find without a massive teardown and/or lots of professional experience.
Check for: boat pox (blisters on the bottom); spongy deck; leaking chainplates; water running down the inside from the hull-deck joint; severe cracks around deck fittings and mast step; fittings pulling out of the deck; large gelcoat gouges below the waterline; cracks along the top of keel; wobbly rudder; wobbly driveshaft. These are all potentially expensive fixes.
If the gelcoat looks dull or faded, make sure it just needs a polish and not a new paint job.
EditDeck and Cabin hammer-Sounding a Hull (Tap-Test)
Do my best
In cabin sailboats, much more damage involves leakage of rainwater from above than seawater from below. Check for signs of leaking decks and cabintops, such as streaks, stains and mildew inside the cabin. Watch for gobs of sealant around the portlights (windows), which is a sign that somebody has been chasing down leaks.
Leaking decks can lead to very expensive damage to the deck itself and to bulkheads below. Many fiberglass boats have decks with plywood or balsawood core material. If water has leaked in around improperly sealed deck fittings, the plywood or balsawood core of the deck may have delaminated and rotted. If you find spots or areas of the deck that are mushy in the least, run away. This is a huge pain to fix.
1. 3
Water damage and rot in the interior bulkheads and woodwork may cause more than cosmetic damage. In some boats, the chainplates (attachments for the rigging that holds up the mast) are attached to plywood bulkheads inside the cabin. In some boats, the interior woodwork holds up a deck-stepped mast. If such structural woodwork is water damaged, rotted, or otherwise unsound, be alarmed.
1. 1
Steer clear of rare or very old engines unless you're certain there's an adequate supply of parts.
2. 2
Do the Smoke Test: healthy diesels make small amounts of black smoke with some white on cold starts. Sick ones make blue or continuous white. Diesels are generally robust but require a strict schedule of oil changes. Bonus points for proof of maintenance.
3. 3
Check for fuel leaks and a working bilge blower in gasoline engines. Again, bonus points for maintenance records and a spare parts kit. Common ailments of gas engines: wet or worn-out electrical, bad points and plugs.
4. 4
Before the seller cranks the engine, check to see if it is already warm. If the seller took the trouble to warm up the engine before showing you the boat, it may be hard to start the engine when cold.
Sails and Rigging
1. 1
Take all of the sails out of their bags and spread them out. Look for chafing, repairs, stretches, pulled-out stitches and broken slides. Mildew is harmless but tough to get rid of. Check spinnakers for excessive bagginess. Hoist the windward sails and check for excessive draft and stretch. Remember that replacing the sails can cost you half the price of an old sailboat.
2. 2
Rigging will show the general quality of the boat's maintenance. You can pretty much count on replacing a lot of rigging on any old boat, though. Check for worn pins and shackles, unraveling wire, broken blocks, worn-out lines. These items are relatively easy to fix and replace, however. Winches should work smoothly, but if they don't, you can almost always get them running right with a quick cleaning and greasing.
3. 3
If possible, hoist all the sails and work all the halyards, sheets, winches and furlers.
1. 1
Check the wiring -- it's commonly done by people who have no clue about what they're doing. If you have no clue, then get an expert.
2. 2
Check seacocks. Beware if they're seized open.
3. 3
Look for leaks around portholes and hatches.
4. 4
Work the engine controls; cables and linkages should move smoothly. If possible, do a battery load test.
5. 5
Check spreader and mast lights. Listen for wires banging around inside the mast -- a sure way to lose a night's sleep.
6. 6
Dodgers and other canvas get bonus points for being Sunbrella and having unfogged plastic windows .
7. 7
Make sure safety equipment complies with government regs and in good condition. In the galley, the propane or CNG should be installed properly.
8. 8
Ensure that the bilge doesn't smell like a bilge.

Anything missing?
03-21-2012 11:07 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

Originally Posted by MishaB View Post
You may think I'm crazy, but I have seen today a Golden Hind 1975. What a beauty!
Misha, with respect.... If you go from a H28 to a Golden Hind within a week or two it's clear you don't really have an idea of what kind of boat you want/need nor, likely, a clear sense of what the differences would be.

If I had to go with a half glass/half wood boat it would most certainly be a wooden hull with a glass deck, not the other way around. Do the "Mark IIs" have glass decks?

Purchase price is important because you need to have a budget and know what you can afford, but before you get there you really need to figure out what kind of boating you want to do, where you want to do it and what type of boat suits that best.

I think more research is in order..
03-21-2012 10:58 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

Yup I think your crazy and the phrase "Lead Sled" comes to mind. Only way that boat is going to get from Boston to Miami in 2 weeks is by truck.
03-21-2012 10:38 PM
Re: Hunter 28.5 1985 buy or not to buy

You may think I'm crazy, but I have seen today a Golden Hind 1975. What a beauty!
…The original design, drawn up by Maurice Griffiths, was commissioned in 1965 by a British coffin manufacturer, Hartwell’s, that decided to try its hand at boatbuilding. They built 120 Golden Hinds in plywood over six years, whereupon their yard manager, Terry Erskine, took over in 1971 and began building the boat with a fiberglass hull and a wood deck and cabinhouse. Erskine closed up shop in the early 1980s, but in 1995 production was resumed by Golden Hind Marine. Using Erskine’s molds they built only a few fancier, more modern “Mark II”... Do not forget that I have to live on board for 4 month. Its not a fastest boat, but in this boat I can go around the world. No doubts about it. I may get one for $9500. I know its hard to get parts for the original engine, the cabin built from solid mahogany... Look at this one: 1969 Golden Hind sailboat for sale in Massachusetts
not the one I can get. Don't look like a coffin.
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