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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-25-2006 12:42 PM
TAK I believe there is a soy product on the market that will strip and that will be evaluated by Pract. Sailor in the next issue.. Looking forward to reading that..
10-25-2006 10:29 AM
mike dryver
taking off bottom paint

hi all i watched a crew do three boats next to mine in N.E Mass. last yr after the boats came out. they used baking soda. i asked them about the process and they said the soda will not harm the gell coat, only scuff the surface , to get a good etching for recoat. after they were done i looked at the hulls and can tell you i will be using them next yr for my boat. it comes to about $1600.00 for a 37' foot boat but they take care of the whole mess there was nothing left to clean up after they were done, and they dispose of the residue legally. that,s a really big point, because if they don't get rid of the residue properly and get caught you the boat owner can and will be liable for the clean up of anything disposed of illegally. i know this is so because of a situation our commercial landlord was in after he purchased a property that was contaminated, and the orig. owners went defunct.

regards mike
10-24-2006 04:55 AM
yotphix Really do investigate the cost of soda blasting. There simply isn't a better way if it is at all feasible for you. Even a very skilled and experienced hand with a sandblaster is scary to me and manual methods in cluding orbital sanders are really quite brutal.
If you can swing it, pay the sodablaster then have a tailgate party and'll be the envy of the yard!
10-24-2006 04:38 AM
neilchristophers If you want to stay away from paint stripers which are messy and costly I would go with hand striper with tunsten blade they work quite well and dont make allot of mess , then a wet and dry sand . cheers Neil
10-23-2006 08:58 AM
Sailormon6 The type of paint stripper that you get at a building supply store is too aggressive to use on a fiberglass boat. If you use it down to the bare gelcoat, it will create pitting in the gelcoat that will have to be repaired.

If you use the type of paint stripper that is specifically designed for fiberglass boats and cars, and if you buy it from an auto paint supply store, the cost will only be a little more than the stuff from the building supply store, and you can use it down to the bare gelcoat. If the paint stripper removes all the old paint down to the gelcoat, you only need to sand the boat enough to rough up the gelcoat slightly, so the paint will bond to it, and you can lightly wet-sand it by hand.

Use a paint stripper that is designed for the job, and let it do the hard work for you.
10-22-2006 04:14 PM
Gary M I just stripped 20 years of bottom paint on a 30 foot boat that I bought last winter. It is not much fun, I tried ever method.

The Interlux stripper works reasonably well but it is expensive. You can use the paint stripper from Home Depot if you have a heavy build up on the early layers. It works a bit better and costs a quarter of the price. You do need rubber gloves taped to a cheap rain jacket, full face mask etc.
You just do not want it in direct contact with the gel coat as it will soften it.

What I think worked best is a two handed scraper with a carbide blade. I get it from Lee Valley but they are available on line. You need lots of blades but they work quite well, probably my preferred method.

Finally you will need a good (3 amp) random orbital sander with the exhaust hooked up to a shop vacuum.

It really sucks doing it manually but you KNOW that you did not take off part of the laminate. A friend of mine hired a pro to plane his J35 and he took to much off. He had to hire another pro to fix it. Missed the whole season.

Have fun I think it took me about 150-200 hours.
10-21-2006 07:22 AM
sailingdog Soda blasting or blasting with some other media, like corn cob or walnut shell, is a pretty effective way to strip the paint without risking damage to the underlying laminate.
10-15-2006 01:54 PM
captlar Depends on how big the boat. On my dink or runabout, liquid strip. On my 36' sloop, blasting is, IMO, the way to go.
You need to use a company that has extensive experience. Too much blasting will damage the hull and cause more problems than the current paint build-up. The sand used should be very fine and the ratio of air to sand needs to be right - not too much sand. Fine powders such as baking soda or talc can be used to reduce risk of overblast, but cost of job goes up. It is the skill of the worker doing the blast that determines the success so you want a yard that has done hundreds, not a yard that is just starting to do the work. Some yards subcontract to specialty contractors. Check references. EPA issues are real and vary by region. Waste disposal is another concern.

10-14-2006 09:27 PM
pigslo Sherwin Williams sells the same stripper for less money. Call peel away on the phone and they will tell you the corresponding "architectural" stripper sold at SW.
10-14-2006 05:51 PM
Originally Posted by NickL
Paying someone is the easiest, or you can use 36grit sand paper and some good air tools. I have seen a stripper with some special paper at the marine store, but I have never used it.
That stripper is Peel Away, which is now a West Marine brand. That's a pretty good product.

Interlux makes the 299E paint remover which is a good product.
Pettit manufactures Bio-Blast and E Paint also makes an environmentaly friendly anti-fouling paint remover.

Like several people have already said, no matter what you use it's a tough job.
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