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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related) > Replacing Chainplates on the Water
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Thread: Replacing Chainplates on the Water Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-01-2012 03:51 PM
barefootnavigator
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Contact this guy Sweet blog by the way. Atom Voyages - Home
PS he also has a free e book you should read
04-30-2012 11:00 PM
jrd22
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

I replaced all of our chainplates and had them done at a machine shop. All of them were just a wee bit different requiring each one to be made individually and numbered so they went back in the right spot. PITA. You may have to settle on different dimensions of the raw SS 316 stock than the original (we went up in width and thickness, but milled some down so they would fit in some places), not all dimensions are available. Finding a shop that will polish them was tough, and not cheap, you might want to check on that too. Bedding compound- 3M5200 does NOT stick to mirror polished SS, I think I would try butyl from Mainesail if I had to do it over (and I will unfortunately). You should also use this opportunity to pot the chainplate holes in the deck if it's balsa cored.
04-30-2012 10:39 PM
SloopJonB
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Quote:
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
You may well find that they are all the same, making it easy.
That's what I was thinking - measure them yourself and see how many match. At a minimum, each shroud chain will have a mate on the other side and you may get lucky and find everything but the headstay fitting is the same. If that's the case, just remove one and have the shop use it as a pattern and make up as many as you need.

Using one as a pattern will also prevent any slight mismatch between the SAE originals and the metric measures the Mexican shops will be using. A couple of millimeters off will keep your boltholes from lining up properly. If they can use one of yours as a template, that is eliminated.
04-30-2012 08:16 PM
smurphny
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Quote:
Originally Posted by Controlled Jibe View Post
You raise a good question. We'd been warned to take the piece itself to the machinist for exact duplication. I trust my measuring (I was a trim carpenter in a former life), but is it asking for trouble to transfer measurements too many times? How far does a bolt hole have to be off before you start getting into complications? This would obviously be the way to go if we're not introducing too much of a risk of error. Thoughts?

And while we're on the subject, opinions on bedding compounds???
The flat pieces should be no problem at all if you can read a ruler. You may well find that they are all the same, making it easy. I used the old chainplates for backing plates and just used the same hole spacing on the new plates, using 2" instead of the original 1-1/2". Pearson cut all the plain pieces the same. The bow and mast top piece are pretty complicated. I had to remove them and take them home to duplicate carefully. They need quite a bit of welding which is tough to do at the boat unless you have portable welding equip. I have been stick welding all my parts with Super Missileweld Rod which is awesome stuff and works without fancy TIG equipment. The welds are not a neat as gas-shielded but the penetration, strength and corrosion-resistance is very good. All you need is a good AC/DC welder using reverse polarity, a grinder and chop saw with a metal blade. Polishing is a PITA but worthwhile considering how much you can save. With the crazy prices to duplicate stuff at a machine shop, it really pays to DIY.
04-30-2012 12:06 AM
Faster
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

If you were a finish carpenter/joiner then the measurements ought to be a piece of cake. Do some decent drawings for the fabricator and you should be able to have the full set made ahead of time (exc. perhaps the stem fitting, but even that's a possibility.)

Use caution and common sense for the rest. You'll be fine.
04-29-2012 07:48 PM
CorvetteGuy
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Hylarards will take the stress. no problem taking them one at a time
04-29-2012 07:27 PM
Controlled Jibe
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

You raise a good question. We'd been warned to take the piece itself to the machinist for exact duplication. I trust my measuring (I was a trim carpenter in a former life), but is it asking for trouble to transfer measurements too many times? How far does a bolt hole have to be off before you start getting into complications? This would obviously be the way to go if we're not introducing too much of a risk of error. Thoughts?

And while we're on the subject, opinions on bedding compounds???
04-29-2012 07:00 PM
smurphny
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Why not just measure the length, width, bolt spacing and size of the simple pieces. Then you'll have them right there to swap out without doing a lot of jury rigging. If your bow piece is bent around, beveled and inset like mine, it will definitely need to be taken off for someone to duplicate. If your mast-top piece is a welded s.s. X, it too should be checked for crevice corrosion. Replacing one end does not help if the other end is corroded. When I did this, I replaced everything, moved the shrouds outboard. I made some s.s. plates w/ 1/4" X 2" slots that slide right over the chainplates and screw into the toe rail to lock the shrouds from working. The main thing to check is that there is no movement in the shroud chainplates as the mast works. Even a little movement over time will result in cracking. Moving the shrouds outboard is great but the main problem is in making sure they do not work. Be ready to struggle getting the old ones off if, like mine, they are bedded with 5200.
04-29-2012 06:36 PM
Controlled Jibe
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Thanks everybody, this is the peace of mind I was hoping to get here.
04-29-2012 04:10 PM
jrd22
Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

I would think that you could take all but the four lowers off and use the main and jib halyard for peace of mind fore and aft. The lowers will hold the stick up.
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