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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Wire to Rope Halyards
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Thread: Wire to Rope Halyards Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-23-2012 03:52 AM
Stumble
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

Schock,

The people who are doing that still just got in the habit from old arimid (kevlar) lines and are still doing it from habit, not necessity. Dyneema is almost completely UV stable, and running chase lines is no longer necessary.

In commercial fields it is seeing a longer working life than steel cable, and the same base material when used for standing rigging has a recommended replacement life of 8 years (as compared to 8 years for wire).
05-23-2012 03:38 AM
SchockT
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

I remember back in the day when all the IOR war horses had wire halyards. As the foredeck guy it was standard procedure to check all the halyards for meathooks, and when I found them I would whip out my trusty leatherman and file them off!

My boat is of that vintage, and I have wire genoa and main halyards. They are still in great shape so I have no reason to replace them. Thats the thing about wire, is that it can last forever! If I got serious about racing my boat I would probably replace them with a modern rope just to reduce weight aloft. Wire halyards are far heavier than rope. The down side of modern ropes is that they are more vulnerable to UV and weathering and chaffe. Alot of race boats that have expensive high tech halyards will attach tracer lines to the halyards and hoist them to the masthead to protect the rope from the elements. This is often because the outer protective sheath has been removed to further reduce weight.
05-22-2012 09:03 PM
Stumble
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

With modern lines there is no, absolutely no reason to continue to use wire. Skip over all the polyester lines and go strait to dyneema. It is cheaper by breaking strength than sta-set, stronger than steel wire by size, and much less stretchy. It's one real limitation is it is very slippery, so you need to add a cover right at the point where the jammer, or cleat is to prevent it from slipping off.

This should take a good rigger about 5 minutes to add, or someone who has never done it before about 20 minutes the first time.
05-22-2012 01:48 PM
tommays
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards





While all the standing rigging and clevis pins are brand new as IMHP it you cant lock down the age its to OLD to trust

After 30+ years of J24s with water pouring into the bilge from all the openings for the internal halyards ,you could get 10 to 15 gallons on a week like this with 3" of rain

The old school deck steped Cal 29 mast with ZERO leaks is kind of nice and short of welding on a new masthead you are stuck with the sizes they picked as they are needed to prevent chafe and 6" stock to DIY new ones is bucks
05-22-2012 01:18 AM
SimonV
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

If you have even one meathook, its time to replace. The main location for them is the point at which it sits on the sheave when under load. I Have wire to rope on my boats main halyard and have had no problems but regularly check it and the splice. One thought about wire and rope, Which is going to last better in the tropical sun.
05-21-2012 08:51 PM
msmith10
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

I'm with Tommays. I've got wire to rope in good shape. No kinks or meathooks. My old C&C 30 mast is a telephone pole, so a few ounces of weight aloft is not gonna make me win or lose a race. When I have to change out, I'll go to all rope, but there's no sense spending a couple hundred bucks until I have to.
05-21-2012 06:44 PM
puddinlegs
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
On the Cal 29 they are all external and don't touch or rub or cut anything

On the Cal 29 to make the external thing work the sheaves are GIANT with a price to match

On my J24 it started out life with wire/rope in 1981 and at some point as the sheaves needed no mod it went to all high tech rope

Other than the fishhooks on the wire its about the same on the J24 as the loads are low

There is a bunch of stuff on the market with jackets now that are stupid slippery and do NOT work so it can be a costly experiment if you do NOT play with a sample of the cordage your going to use

As the boats get bigger between the lenth of line and the high loads there is a much bigger payback
Tommy, there's a pretty large knowledge base out there of what works and works well. Line casing/covers can be dealt with pretty easily to rough them up a bit. Honestly, I haven't been on a boat big or small with wire halyards for years. Even the old IOR war horses around here have gotten ride of theirs long ago, and if anything loads up a rig, it's an IOR boat. I wouldn't advise anyone to rush out and change if they're happy, but if it's time to change a wire that's worn or meat hooked, it's a no brainer to update. There should also be reasonably priced hardware for the top of your mast when the time comes. Chances are it'll be much smaller and lighter than what you're using now.
05-21-2012 06:32 PM
CapnBilll
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

My Aquarius 23 came with damaged wire to rope halyards. I replaced the jib with all rope, but jib has a wire sewn into jib.

I went with wire to rope main halyard because mast top sheaves were a little narrow, and I worried line could jam.

I say if the line fits smoothly use it, otherwise stick to original.
05-21-2012 05:13 PM
tommays
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

On the Cal 29 they are all external and don't touch or rub or cut anything

On the Cal 29 to make the external thing work the sheaves are GIANT with a price to match

On my J24 it started out life with wire/rope in 1981 and at some point as the sheaves needed no mod it went to all high tech rope

Other than the fishhooks on the wire its about the same on the J24 as the loads are low

There is a bunch of stuff on the market with jackets now that are stupid slippery and do NOT work so it can be a costly experiment if you do NOT play with a sample of the cordage your going to use

As the boats get bigger between the lenth of line and the high loads there is a much bigger payback
05-21-2012 05:12 PM
casey1999
Re: Wire to Rope Halyards

Quote:
Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post
Wire to rope halyards were an inexpensive way of providing yachts with non-stretch halyards from the late 60's through the early '80s without the need for reel winches which are a "reel" pain in the neck--or wrist if one got away from you. The length of the "rope" tail was sized to have rope around the halyard winches with only a short length between the winch and the wire. Of course, this necessitated having sheaves that were designed with a hardened grove in the center to accept the wire without chafe and yet accommodate the rope itself as was necessary because the wire could not exceed the length from the masthead to slightly above the position of the halyard winch. So long as the sheave is not chewed up--which usually only happens when the wire is badly worn or the lead at the masthead is not fair, the sheaves will usually accept a rope only halyard. On the other hand, unless there is some reason to believe that someone has lead a halyard unfairly through the mast--and chafe in the wire to confirm it--there is no reason to think that the wire is "sawing" on anything in the mast save perhaps the exit slot (if the halyards are internal). In any case, if the sheaves are okay, you can switch over to Sta-Set or Sta-Set X or its equivalent, for a reliable non-/limited stretch halyard for everyday and club racing use; or, Spectra or its equivalent (e.g. T-900) for more serious racing although that is not inexpensive.

FWIW...
Sounds like good advice. My wire to rope halyards appear in excellant condition (they are internal) with no wire chafe or fish hooks.
Regards
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