|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-03-2006 01:32 PM|
3M's "one call gets it all" 800# can tell you how long that product has been out. 1-800-364-3577 and if they don't know they'll connect you to someone who does.
I've used water-based contact cements for nearly a decade. Can't say I'm certain they are as good in every way, but they certainly have made progress.
|11-03-2006 10:32 AM|
|eryka||Good to know about this. Must be a reformulation and its exciting they've been able to make it work. Formica tried to make a 'green' water based low VOC contact cement once before, maybe early 90's (?) but the glues didn't hold up well over time. We got a lot of callbacks. Kinda gave up on it. We're relaminating parts of our interior this spring, will be investigating kinder gentler glues!|
|11-03-2006 10:25 AM|
|sailingdog||Last I checked, many paints are water-based, and yet work perfectly well at protecting houses from the rain... The fact that FastBond 30 doesn't help contribute to smog is a good thing too... the VOCs that are released from most contact cements are more than equal to the pollution from driving a car for a long period of time.|
|11-03-2006 10:14 AM|
|SteveCox||I don't know how long Fastbond 30 has been on the market. It is a water based cement. Now before everyone starts flaming me about a water based product please keep in mind that water is used as the carrier for the solvent and the cement is not water soluble after it cures. Fastbond is quite a bit more expensive than regular contact cement and it takes a while to dry (the 30 in the name is suggestive ) so I use a heat gun to speed things along. Those two factors are slowing its' acceptance in the market but since I don't have to use a respirator and I don't have to evacuate a building I think it is worth it.|
|11-03-2006 09:37 AM|
|sailingdog||I'd have to agree..the VOCs from the contact cement can cause serious health problems...and sniffing the glue fumes is a good way to end up brain-dead. Check to make sure the organics cartridge is designed for whatever solvent/adhesive you are using and get a couple of spares. Last thing you want to do is end up having to run to the store to get them just as your on the final stretch.|
|11-03-2006 08:38 AM|
Originally Posted by SteveCox
|11-02-2006 11:24 PM|
every aspect of this rebuilding a sailboat has it's own knowledge bases
and you all have been very helpful
|11-02-2006 04:08 PM|
|SteveCox||Do yourself a favor and buy a laminate trimmer kit with extra bases. There are offset bases that will allow you to get into tight corners that would be a big help here. Also, in order to save your lungs buy some Fastbond 30 contact cement by 3M. It is expensive but works very well and is odorless. It is all I use for laminate work (custom cabinetmaker).|
|11-02-2006 02:41 PM|
Originally Posted by eryka
Of course, the opposite is also possible...that you would have priced yourselves out of the market and business...and not be able to afford a boat and wouldn't be out cruising..but still trying to make the money needed to buy the boat.
|11-02-2006 02:11 PM|
There are also router jigs for the Dremel that sometimes make it easier to use. I think RotoTool and ZipTool are also brand names for small routers for this type of job.
If you can't get the old laminate/veneer off, it may help to buy some heavy kraft paper (sold in hardware stores, roofing paper, flooring paper, etc.) and lightly tack it in place. Mark it, then lay it down flat and trim it until it has the right shape, going abck and forth in position. Once the shape is right, you've got a template to work on flat laminate with.
If you can make a heavy paper template for the whole panel, and then transfer that to the laminate, you may be able to get away with only needing the final sanding once it is glued up.
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