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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Helms > Fuse board
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-05-2012 01:54 PM
jumaggafanny
Re: Fuse board

Well I declare...Nice to have you visit Mr. Swain.
Your books, boats and reputation preceeds you.
Very cool to have you respond
Very..
07-03-2012 10:37 PM
Brent Swain
Re: Fuse board

The nice thing about those 1-2 or both switches is the contacts slide together ,so if they get a bit of corrosion on them, you just have to switch them over and over again ,until they wear the corrosion off.
I got sick of the positive side of my fuse block corroding, so made my own fuse block out of titanium. Zero corrosion since.
07-02-2012 06:29 PM
Wayne25
Re: Fuse board

Top right of the transom
06-29-2012 10:40 PM
wkupersa
Re: Fuse board

Yes, I think you are right. Looking at what is available in push pull switches, there are some that seem to be made for headlights (off-on-on) I bet that is what it is. I think I'm going to replace it with the 4 switch with 2 12 volt connecter panel that West Marine sells. I might upgrade later to something with a meter and a battery selector switch as you suggest.

Stupid question: Where do you find the hull number?


Thanks!
--Willie

s/v Dhayna
1977 Helms 25
Arnold, MD
06-29-2012 12:50 AM
Wayne25
Re: Fuse board

My master pull out switch is 2 position. Sounds like someone changed it out with something different. I had to replace some of mine also. Just make sure you get the correct ampere switch. Mine also had an additional switch board installed next to the original for more gear to be installed.
You may also want to look into a more modern battery 1, 2 or both switch. This would allow you to add another battery for more capacity. You could turn your existing power switch into use for something else.
06-28-2012 10:50 PM
wkupersa
Fuse board

Hello,

I was looking at the fuse board on my Helms 25 (trying to get the running lights working in time for the forth of July.)

I thought it would be cool if I could keep the original board with its "Helms Yachts" label.

In checking the switches with my ohm meter, they all seem to pass power less the master. However, it looks like it is a three position switch while the others are just off (in) and on (out). I don't get why it is a three position switch. It seems to stop midway out, and then another stop at all the way out. Neither position seems to pass power, but maybe I am just missing something. Can anyone enlighten me on this?


Thanks!
--Willie
s/v Dhayna
Arnold, MD

 
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