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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-20-2012 06:13 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

08-20-2012 05:37 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Hey ShockT, no need for apologies, I need all the advice I can get. I'm in a weird spot where I had the chance to race with an expert crew when I was a brand spakin' new sailor, and gleaned a lot over a short period. But now that I have my own boat, I have to look at how all that I learned applies and need all the boat-owner tips I can get.

It's real tough going from a top of the line Mumm30 with all the wiz-bang gadgets to my ol' Contessa where things aren't quite right or second-hand. I'm slowly replacing lines and re-rigging the way I want but it takes time to figure out how things are done on this particular boat and what works or doesn't. Not to mention the money it takes to afford to replace all the bits I don't like...

I'll keep in mind about the tweakers and twings; I know we need them on the Mumm but like I said gotta try it out to see what will work on our boat. I'll have to figure out where I'll be able to attach them.

For now, the first task is to figure out how to get that new halyard block up there...
08-20-2012 04:59 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

My apologies JordanH,
I assumed from the questions you were asking that you didn't have much experience with spinnakers, but if you do foredeck on a race boat you should have no trouble sorting things out. Once you get that spin halyard installed you should be good to go!

P.s. You might find that the tweakers are more important than you think. Without them your guy will be dragging on the shrouds, and maybe even bending your stancheons.
08-20-2012 01:03 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

AHA! I see how this person did it. I believe my masthead is the same so hopefully I can through-bolt a block like they did! I seriously hope mine already has this bolt in place, that would make it simple.

I assume the one end of the halyard would clip to the pulpit out of the way, but the end that is run back to the cockpit looks like it would interfere with the furler, unless that silver attachment on the mast is a fairlead.
08-20-2012 12:29 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Originally Posted by SchockT View Post
It is pretty risky to make the assumption that you will always be able to sail DDW when dousing a sail! When the wind picks up and things go wrong the last thing you want is a chute that won't come down because you aren't able to run for whatever reason!
Hi ShockT, Fair enough.

Although I've never sailed an asymmetric before, I have a fair bit of experience with a symmetric. I have raced on a Mumm 30 (Farr 30) and help work the foredeck. We end-for-end gybe. I've learned quite a bit about rigging for it and am comfortable using their system which has all the bells and whistles; Fully lazy sheet/guy double lines, tweaker, twings etc etc. On my boat, I will not be racing so I've simplified and gone with single guy/sheets. I don't think I'll go the extra mile with tweaker and twings but we'll see. I've also crewed a bit on the foredeck of an IMX38 where we used the dip pole method... totally not appropriate for my little boat.

As for flying inside the triangle, that was only for the asymmetric. I have no intention (and don't even know how that could work) of flying the symmetric like that! ha! What I meant was that flying the symmetric from the spare halyhard looks like it would wrap over or under the stay and therefore was scratching my head about how people can fly the symm. It seems to me that the Contessa was designed for a spinnaker from the factory but yet I don't see a block above the stay or anyway to do that.

Hmmm... I'm not sure how I'm going to get one up there securely.
08-20-2012 12:51 AM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Here is a video that will give you an idea how it should work. Your boat has a baby stay which makes it a bit more difficult because you have to gybe the pole in front of that, which is why you couldn't do a dip pole gybe even if you wanted to! Watch carefully and you will see them pulling the tweakers on and off etc. Their gybes look a bit sloppy, mainly because they are demonstrating in light air. Gybes are actually easier with a bit more wind.]

The mechanics of the setup are the same regardless of the make and model of boat. The only differences would be minor things like how you choose to run tweakers etc. If there are successfully raced contessas in your area definitely check them out for ideas, but if not it's no big deal.
08-20-2012 12:36 AM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

We were discussing the side load issues while sailing; Wear and tear on the lines and jamming Although, it didn't occur to me that the side load would affect the douse since we'll be dousing the asymmetric while running dead down wind as I don't intend to race with it.
It is pretty risky to make the assumption that you will always be able to sail DDW when dousing a sail! When the wind picks up and things go wrong the last thing you want is a chute that won't come down because you aren't able to run for whatever reason!

For the symetric you will absolutely need a proper spin halyard as there is no way you could fly the chute inside the foretriangle. Assuming you have a correct sized spinnaker pole, it looks like you have everything you need to fly the sail. I saw you have the mast ring on a track. Does that track go all the way to the deck? With your boat you will have to do end-for-end gybes rather than dip pole gybes. I would suggest you keep it simple and just run sheets rather than sheets and guys. When you do that, the windward sheet becomes the guy. Since the ideal lead position for the guy is much further forward, near the point of max beam, people run "tweakers" which are lines attached to the sheet using a small bullet block, and led through a block on the rail at that forward point. I see from the pic that you already have an eye on the track in roughly the correct location. The simplest thing to do is to use a ratchet block with a becket and cam cleat attached. shackle that to the rail, and use a piece of bungee between the top of the block and the lower lifeline so the block is suspended standing up. The tweaker line goes through that block, and when that side is the guy you pull it on. you could also lead the tweaker back to the cockpit for convenience, but then you have to install cleats and possibly fairleads on the deck.

08-19-2012 07:46 AM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Hi ShockT,

We were discussing the side load issues while sailing; Wear and tear on the lines and jamming Although, it didn't occur to me that the side load would affect the douse since we'll be dousing the asymmetric while running dead down wind as I don't intend to race with it. You make a really good point so I'm going to have to take a look at that.

The red/white line that his shackled to the mast is the uphaul. It's on an external block fractionally up the mast and is a small diameter line. Definitely not a spinnaker halyard. I use it for an uphaul on my whisker pole and, eventually, will use it for the uphaul on the spinnaker pole.

As for rigging the symmetric spinnaker, that's my next goal. I have to figure out how other Contessa owners fly the spinnaker since my mast is the "standard" one straight from the factory and should be designed for it... Fortunately, we've started a little, local class association so I'll be able to see how the others do it. I don't know how I can possibly gybe without the fore stay interfering at present. Resolving these issues is half the fun. :-)
08-19-2012 01:50 AM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Good job, you got it working!

I am surprised you don't have a dedicated spinnaker halyard that is on a block at the masthead considering the boat was rigged for spinnakers in the past. (Isn't that white/red external halyard that is shackled to the mast ring a spin halyard?) The problem you are going to encounter flying the chute from a genny halyard, aside from being forced to fly inside the foretriangle, is that genoa halyards are only designed to handle loads on the fore-aft axis. the side load that a spinnaker puts on the halyard will have it chaffing on the mast exit rather than running on the sheave. Not only will it damage your halyard, it may not run free when trying to drop or hoist in more breeze. Ideally you should have a proper spin halyard. I can't see your anchor roller very well in the pic, but it looks like it might be a good spot to fly it from. Once you get the tack point a bit further forward and outside the fore triangle you might find that your aft blocks are ok.

Are you still going to try and rig for the symetric as well?
08-18-2012 10:16 PM
Re: Spinnaker Rigging

Hi All,

I rigged up the asymmetric spinnaker today with my beautiful new lines (dyneema core with tapered jackets) and it worked well in the light breeze we had tonight. Too bad the lake was a bit lumpy.

1. I found a good spot to attach a block, just behind the furler. I think I'll rig a snatch block with a tack line that runs back to the cockpit in the future.
2. I ran the sheet through a block at the aft most possible position on the toe-rail track. It's not far enough back so I need to find a better location for that turning block.
3. Since the spinnaker halyard is actually a genoa halyard, everything had to be run within the foretriangle. I expected this to make gybing more difficult but it worked quite well, save for a little bit more chafe than I'd like on my expensive lines. I hope this is the case, even when the wind comes up a little stronger.

I expected more fuss on hoist and douse but everything went very smoothly with the help of my crew. I'm glad I had 2 extra folks onboard tonight as we figured out tack, block and line placement.

I still need to change the sail number on this old sail, but at least she flies and flies easily. The wind died and the lake was lumpy but it got the job done. Here's a quick vid... sorry, not exciting and no music.
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