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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-27-2012 08:41 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Right now the replacement interval on Dux seems to be about every 8 years for the line, with no limit on the fittings (they use aluminium instead of stainless so corrosion isn't an issue).

When you first make the switch it will likely cost about the same as changing out wire, after that figure $200 every 8 years or so for new line.

Rit now I am at year 5 on my Dynex stuff, and it still looks brand new.
12-27-2012 01:30 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Dynex Dux is not immune to UV. Colligo Marine say that it will easily last 5 years and they say this compares to a recommended interval of 8 years for steel. I can't believe very many, if any, cruisers change out their standing rigging every 8 years. Maybe circumnavigators. I think the performance gain on a 1973 Cat 27 is going to be overshadowed by the likely shorter life, and thus much higher total cost.
12-27-2012 11:29 AM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Originally Posted by Stumble View Post
Call John Franta up at Colligio Marine and talk to him about Dynex Dux standing rigging. It won't cost much (if any) more, and is a major performance gain. Plus the next time you need to replace it, replacement cost is a few hundred bucks.
i know nothing about this stuff. how does it hold up to being grabbed rubbed by lines, poles, bungie cords over say 10-15yrs. the average life of stainless wire? Is this a good material for the long haul? I can see its usefulness in racing, can it last in a typical weekend/cruiser? Seems like a cheaper and stronger material...maybe a good option? As you have recommended it, have you used it? if so, how did it hold up for you?
12-24-2012 12:35 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Call John Franta up at Colligio Marine and talk to him about Dynex Dux standing rigging. It won't cost much (if any) more, and is a major performance gain. Plus the next time you need to replace it, replacement cost is a few hundred bucks.
12-24-2012 12:29 AM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Do any of your fittings look like this? or Or

If so make sure they are installed as the instructions here show, and assure the integrity of the parts(no crack or broken parts or broken strands) and you are good to go. These are stronger than swaged, and less likely to be improperly done, as you can redo a mistake without having to cut off the fitting when you make a mistake.
12-24-2012 12:11 AM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

With the boat home for the winter, and the mast down, I decided to get to work on replacing the standing rigging.

Wow, that turned out to be a big project. I found several things which were surprises:

1) the spreader ends were oxidized/corroded so badly, the shroud was literally "welded" in place. I think this was from the disimilar metals (aluminum spreader end caps and stainless wire). I'm guessing this was becoming a weak spot too.

2) the mast head was cracked. Still seemed strong, but glad to know it was cracked so I could replace before bad stuff happened.

3) the turnbuckle on the fore-stay was severely bent. Apparently the previous owner smacked into a dock (at low water) or something. I'm sure that big bend must have weakened the bronze turnbuckle.

4) wrapping up all the shrouds was like wresting snakes!!! ugggh.

5) the wire itself seemed to be in great shape. no kinks. no 'fishooks'.

so, now I need to make some decisions on the wire ends. I was planning to send these off to Catalina Direct and have swaged ends for the new wires. But I've been reading more about the strength of Norseman.

I would be interested in more opinions. What "ends" do you like? why?

thx, markb
08-28-2012 09:49 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

You can just about walk across Northport Harbor on Catalina's and I do not ever recall seeing one of any age with that style standing rigging on the boats above 25' ?

As far as ordering a ready made set of standing rigging without using the old stuff to get the lenths right is most likely going to be a FAIL

I have no idea what happened to my Cal 29 between 1970 and 2011 when I replaced the standing rigging BUT

The boat came with all the original paper work and ONLY the backstay and the 3/16 uppers matched the original specs everything else was kind of a mess of mismatched stuff and wrong size Clevis pins and random plain steel that somehow never fell down
08-28-2012 05:59 PM
Brent Swain
Re: Replace standing rigging?

While stainless may be the best choice for coastal cruising, where metal fatigue is less of a problem, galvanized steel is a better, and far more reliable choice for long offshore voyages.
Whether copper or aluminium, nicopress sleeves are a bit too soft for standing rigging. 1x19 is a bit too smooth to get a good grip on with sleeves, 7x7 would work better with them. Industrial supplies have stainless and galv steel sleeves they put on with great pressure, for a small fee, which are far stronger and more reliable..
08-28-2012 04:53 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

Thanks for all the feedback and ideas.

Yes, it did have tape on it . . . but I unwrapped it so I could show you on the picture what I was talking about.

After I took this picture, I was inspecting the mast head the other day with a pair of binoculars and I "think" i can see some fraying on the backstay (at the masthead) too. I need to go up there this weekend (ugggh) and take a closer look. Given the unknown history & age of these parts, I'm leaning towards replacing them all.

Given the common nature of these boats, the measurements are well known and "standard". I found some pretty good prices from Catalina Direct on replacement rigging. I plan to order a full set putting on this fall so I can be sure they all fit and are good.

08-28-2012 04:25 PM
Re: Replace standing rigging?

With two Nicopress fittings, there is nothing wrong with it. You can actually SEE the crimps unlike any of the swageless fittings some of which have very questionable results in controlled tests. I would actually trust something like this maybe more than any of the slick swageless eyes and forks. After some research, I used Suncor swageless to replace all my rigging ends but I gotta tell you, when you tighten the things up you are really putting a lot of trust in the engineering. My second choice would be Sta-Lok. GOB magazine had a good piece on swage ends a few years back.

That wire looks corroded which should be more of a worry than the crimps. The other thing to worry about doing it that way is getting cut by the wire ends which should be wrapped with some nice white rigging tape. I use them on my main halyard shackle and wrap it tightly with tape. Actually all the wire to rope halyards use them to attach the shackle but that's flexible wire. You can buy a perfectly good hand swager for these for just a few bucks. It does the same thing as the $300.00 swager. Neither is a commercial swage press--a completely different animal. It takes a while to do them carefully by hand but it works fine. It is also a good idea to keep a bunch of crimps, some spare wire, and a small swager aboard in case you need to jury rig something.
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