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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-04-2012 11:27 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

I picked up an tiller pilot for $125 in our marina and with a roller furling genoa find single- handing a pleasure on my C& previously stated docking takes practice and don't come into your well any faster then you are willing to hit your dock!
09-04-2012 12:45 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

Zombie thread alert

As the OP posted in 2006 he may be OK by now.
09-03-2012 06:59 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

One problem with most published Polar diagrams is that they assume a full blown race crew with their weight in the right spot, i.e. weight on the rail. Because of that, polars and sail changes will be different than those for a fully crewed boats. Typically single-handers will have less weight aboard, and much less moveable ballast, and less crew to do sail changes. This puts a premium on setting up the boat with sails that work across as broad a wind range as possible and then designing the hardware, rig, and deck plan to allow rapid depowering (rather than furling or reefing.)

09-03-2012 03:08 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Polar Diagrams | Polar Diagram Source

Try that one for a start, Richard.
Thank you very much. It looks interesting.

09-03-2012 01:38 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

Polar Diagrams | Polar Diagram Source

Try that one for a start, Richard.
09-03-2012 01:36 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

Polars are just a chart showing what speed you should expect on different points of sail.
09-03-2012 01:12 PM
Re: Single Handed Sailing

Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Often your polars (you can usually get polars from other owners, or from USSA) will show that you should drop from a 150 to a 100, and/or put the first reef in the main, in speeds as low as 12-14 knots. Yes, sometimes it really is that low and you can pick up speed by doing it. (I don't know about your boat, just generalizing.)

If you can't get polars, experiment. Reef and unreef, get practiced at it, and compare boat speeds and wind speeds.
This is the first time I have heard the term "polars." What does it mean? What are polars?

02-09-2007 10:11 PM
CharlieCobra My V-21 has no winches, just cleats. Tacking singlehanded is simply tacking slowly enough to loosen the lee sheet and reset it about 5' further down (each boat is different) sliding over to pull the new lee sheet tight as she comes through the wind, cleating down and straightening your course. I've gotten where I can tack and be set on the new course in less than 15 seconds singlehanded. I don't have reefs so if the wind comes up I just either make the cabin windows a planing surface or pinch up tighter and move the mainsheet down since I have no traveller. It makes for as wild of a ride as ya care to do if ya like it that way. Practice, practice and more practice is the best way to learn the boat.
02-09-2007 07:48 PM
Kacper I sail the C22 almost every week here in English bay, Vancouver, Canada.

I have found the C22 to heel a lot more when I'm out by myself instead of with more people, so I reef in just about 11 knots of winds and it makes sailing a lot more comfortable. But then again, I'm a fairly light person.

With 3 people the boat can run under full canvas and heel almost 50% less up to a certain wind speed, I have found.

Also, about heaving to in the C22. This is from my experience....

Once the wind gets above 17-20 knots you will not be able to heave-to as well with the normal "back the jib" technique people often recommend. The bow will just move off the wind and you'll start making way and heeling over more.

If you're still making way, you are not heaving to, you're sailing.

Instead, reef the main and take the jib down or furl it in.

Then... release the main sheet until you have very little way on... (1 knot is good)

Lock the tiller to lee ward and tighten the main sheet in.

The boat should stay at a 45-50 degree angle off the wind and you'll be drifting at about 1 knot to leeward.

In stronger winds you do not need the backed jib especially with a light boat like the C22. The wind on the forward side of the hull should be enough (assuming your main is reefed down enough)

However, if you try to heave-to with too much way without the Jib, it's likely the boat might tack through the wind. Hence I recommend reducing speed before you do it this way.

If the boat continues to point into the wind too much, reef the main again if you have a second reef, or try unfurling some of the jib.

I strongly recommend "Storm Tactics" by Lynn and Larry Perry on more heave-to stuff, that book is price-less when it comes to heaving to in stronger winds.

02-02-2007 09:27 AM
Sailormon6 As a general rule, you should always raise the mainsail first, and take it down first.

Most sailboats will sail nicely on a close reach, (about halfway between a beam reach and a beat) using a simple tiller tamer or similar device to hold the course. If the boat heads up a little too close to the wind, the mainsail will luff and the boat will bear away from the wind. If the boat bears away too much, the increasing force on the mainsail will kick the stern to leeward, and the boat will come up gently to windward. Sailing in this manner, the boat will be sailing at low speed and with very little heeling, which will make it much easier for you to move around the decks. (From my description, it might sound like the boat will be oscillating on and off the wind a lot, but the motion is much more gentle than that, and it really doesn't oscillate significantly.)

If you raise the jib first, the boat won't self-steer very easily, and it'll go much faster, bounding over the waves. It'll also heel much more, making it more difficult for you to raise the mainsail.

Thus, if you raise the mainsail first, and set a tiller tamer to steer a course as described above, the boat will sail indefinitely, unattended, allowing you as much time as you need to hank on and raise the jib, tilt up the outboard motor, untangle any foul-up, or do anything else you need to do. Of course it's important that you keep a sharp eye out constantly for traffic nearby, while you're rigging the sail.

When you raise or lower the jib, the boat doesn't need to be head-to-wind. The jib will go up and come down nicely on a close reach. If your jib halyard is led aft to the cockpit, then you can steer the boat head-to-wind and simply let the jib fall onto the foredeck. If your jib halyard is cleated at the mast, then you have to let the jib luff while the boat is sailing on the mainsail alone on a close reach, and go to the foredeck and catch the jib with one hand while you gradually release the jib halyard with the other hand.
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