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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > cutlass bearing
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-27-2012 10:37 AM
Ritchard
Re: cutlass bearing

May I once again modestly point out my own cheapskate genius with the bearing puller I engineered out of Home Depot plumbing bits?

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/805490-post283.html
09-24-2012 10:51 AM
Gene T
Re: cutlass bearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kutter View Post
If it is a more modern bearing bedded on epoxy this will have been a low temperature epoxy which will soften around 70-100C, it can then be slid out as it is not an interference fit, no press or puller required.
I wonder how many boat yards know what to do when they come across one of these new bearings?
09-24-2012 09:45 AM
Kutter
Re: cutlass bearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene T View Post
Some comments on cutless replacement. It can be done without removal of the shaft by using a proper puller.

Gene
If it is a more modern bearing bedded on epoxy this will have been a low temperature epoxy which will soften around 70-100C, it can then be slid out as it is not an interference fit, no press or puller required.
09-24-2012 09:43 AM
Kutter
Re: cutlass bearing

In answer to a few comments above, from the perspective of a bearing supplier.

Cutlass and cutless have become generic names for water lubricated rubber bearings (they are rubber bearngs as the bearing surface is rubber)

As the rubber needs support they often come in a carrier which can be bronze or composite, although some vessels use a rubber insert into the grp stern tube.

There are also other types of material for marine shaft bearings which have replaced and in some cases (Maritex) improved over rubber as a bearing surface. Many years of development have gone into new materials to improve on the performance of rubber.

These composite phenolic bearings are rarely a press fit as the manufacturers prefer a clearance fit bedded on epoxy which retains the ID, as there is no bore closure from the press fit option.

Clearances are different for different materials as they have widely differing thermal and moisture expansion rates. Each manufacturer has set clearances they work to.

So as an example...
a composite Maritex bearing for a 2" shaft in a 3" carrier
Running clearance new 0.24mm or just under 10 thou
Change bearing when radial displacement approaches 1.27mm
09-21-2012 01:49 PM
Gene T
Re: cutlass bearing

Some comments on cutless replacement. It can be done without removal of the shaft by using a proper puller. But the best way is to remove the shaft. The only proper way to remove the shaft is by pushing it out of the coupling. This can be done by using a spacer (1/2 in socket works great) and some longer bolts using the engine flange to push out the shaft from the shaft flange. With the shaft out it can be properly inspected and cutless bearing is more easily installed. If a boat yard is going to do the work it is important to ASK them how they intend to remove the shaft. It they say they use a slide hammer tell them you will do it yourself. A slide hammer can damage the seal at the rear of the transmission. If you don't remove the shaft you could have calcium deposits on the shaft that will prematurely wear out the new bearing.

Gene
09-21-2012 12:29 PM
keforion
Re: cutlass bearing

Hate to be a pest, but the proper spelling is 'CutlEss.' It is the name of the guy who invented it. A cutlAss is a type of saber.
09-20-2012 12:12 AM
SchockT
Re: cutlass bearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogwatch View Post
go into a boatyard sometime and try to wiggle all the props you see. You will be amazed at how much play there is in most. Some have serious THUNk-THUNK as you move from side to side yet these boats go back in the water and do not seem to have problems.
I am frequently amazed at the poor state of repair I see on boats in the boat yard and at the dock, and yes they do seem to get away with it much of the time, but that doesn't make it right!
09-18-2012 05:06 PM
ewayne
Re: cutlass bearing

The cutlass bearing is a special bearing- often bronze lined with a rubber liner having grooves cut in to allow water to lube and cool it. There are other materials too however,such as fiberglass with a liner.
They usually have some wear after they've been in use for a while. It should not be too sloppy. The rule of thumb I use is a maximum 1/16 inch of radial play per inch of shaft diameter. Thus if yours at 1" diameter moves up to 1/16" radially it's still OK. Replace it once its over that 1/16" dimension. Just be sure your shaft isn't worn as well and contributing to the radial play.
09-18-2012 03:39 PM
Frogwatch
Re: cutlass bearing

go into a boatyard sometime and try to wiggle all the props you see. You will be amazed at how much play there is in most. Some have serious THUNk-THUNK as you move from side to side yet these boats go back in the water and do not seem to have problems.
09-18-2012 03:04 PM
CalebD
Re: cutlass bearing

This place had the best prices for bearings and a large selection: Cutless Bearings for Sale. Buy Johnson Duramax Cutless Bearings today.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

 
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