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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel > Engine paint.
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


Thread: Engine paint. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-09-2012 01:03 PM
Minnewaska
Re: Engine paint.

Flat surface corrosion isn't going to be as tough as corrosion imbedded in the threads of a screw that won't back out.
10-09-2012 10:48 AM
zaliasvejas
Re: Engine paint.

You are right, Bellatrix...
There are also torque requirements to consider..
But as far as dissimilar metals go... the fuel pump front cover on my Volvo is aluminum...
Raw water pump is brass... and it all attaches to iron block! Dang, and it all gets painted with the same paint? What gives?
10-07-2012 09:01 PM
BELLATRIX1965
Re: Engine paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaliasvejas View Post
All good thoughts to consider...
What about the bolts that get unscrewed/screwed in the course of regular maintenance? Could they be replaced with stainless equivalents? None of them have grade ratings, I assume.. Has anyone come up with a livable solution?
BE CAREFUL!! It's not just about dissimilar metals corrosion - SS bolts do not have the tensile strength of steel bolts - especially Grade 5 or higher steel bolts. Put a SS bolt in the wrong place, and you could have engine parts joining you in the cockpit!!
10-01-2012 07:41 PM
Classic30
Re: Engine paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
Say you degrease the engine, and remove loose rust, if you use the factory paint (or equal) do you prime first? If so, with what? I was planning on using the Moeller engine paint on my yanmar. Got some of the zinc Chromate primer and the top coat paint which I plan to use. Also have a can of the yanmar engine paint (dark silver).

If one were to only use the yanmar paint, do you just paint over bare metal and rust with it or do you need to prime? If I use the Moeller zinc chromate primer, is this ok to use on bare steel, iron, and the aluminum gear box?
I can only speak of touch-ups on my Volvo MD2040, but I've never primed before spraying with cheap engine enamel and have, to date, had no issues with the paint flaking off after de-greasing and de-rusting first.
10-01-2012 07:36 PM
Classic30
Re: Engine paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaliasvejas View Post
All good thoughts to consider...
What about the bolts that get unscrewed/screwed in the course of regular maintenance? Could they be replaced with stainless equivalents? None of them have grade ratings, I assume.. Has anyone come up with a livable solution?
Basically, no. Don't do it. Not on a Volvo. The impact on your wallet of mixed-metal corrosion are not worth thinking about.
10-01-2012 04:03 PM
casey1999
Re: Engine paint.

Say you degrease the engine, and remove loose rust, if you use the factory paint (or equal) do you prime first? If so, with what? I was planning on using the Moeller engine paint on my yanmar. Got some of the zinc Chromate primer and the top coat paint which I plan to use. Also have a can of the yanmar engine paint (dark silver).

If one were to only use the yanmar paint, do you just paint over bare metal and rust with it or do you need to prime? If I use the Moeller zinc chromate primer, is this ok to use on bare steel, iron, and the aluminum gear box?
10-01-2012 10:01 AM
Minnewaska
Re: Engine paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zaliasvejas View Post
All good thoughts to consider...
What about the bolts that get unscrewed/screwed in the course of regular maintenance? Could they be replaced with stainless equivalents? None of them have grade ratings, I assume.. Has anyone come up with a livable solution?
Mixing metals can cause them to corrode together near permanently. In the right application, you can use tef-gel to prevent it.
10-01-2012 09:53 AM
zaliasvejas
Re: Engine paint.

All good thoughts to consider...
What about the bolts that get unscrewed/screwed in the course of regular maintenance? Could they be replaced with stainless equivalents? None of them have grade ratings, I assume.. Has anyone come up with a livable solution?
09-30-2012 10:34 PM
Capt. Gary Randall
Re: Engine paint.

Hello there, as suggested above, a paint job is only as good as the preparation before it. It doesn't matter what kind of paint. If you want to properly paint your engine you must remove the alternator and tape all of your intake and other things you don't want painted. Prior to this you need to get some degreaser and a pressure washer that will remove any old flaking paint. Follow directions closely on the pressure washer and the degreaser.There are two types of high-temperature paint. 500° and above should not be necessary on anything except your direct exhaust. Considering the size of your engine it will not take very much paint, but the preparation is the most important factor. Also I agree that you should paint it with the original factory engine paint. Except for the exhaust that is not water cooled, that should be painted with BBQ paint 1200 to 1500°black. I hope I have been helpful to you and good luck.......CaptG
09-30-2012 08:51 PM
Classic30
Re: Engine paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
This may be a little OCD, but I would only paint an engine with the Volvo paint that was on it when it was made. They sell it in spray cans. Looks more professional.

If you ever sell your boat, the more it looks like a DIYer worked on the motor, the more nervous buyers get.
"Volvo Green" is also horribly expensive.

FWIW, I've been using a can of ordinary automotive black engine enamel (which doesn't look too bad against the green - really! - since the non-Volvo hoses are black anyway) for the many frequent touch-ups and plan to respray with the Volvo stuff when (if) the boat is on the market.

By that stage I imagine the engine will be more black than green, but at least it won't be rusty to boot and I'll have saved a few $$ along the way.
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