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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related) > Water in oil
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Thread: Water in oil Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-08-2012 11:01 PM
JimsCAL
Re: Water in oil

On my previous boat, my Universal 5411 had the same problem. New water pump, head gasket, etc. failed to fix the issue. Fix was to put in a rebuilt 5411. Note these are raw water cooled engines and are now 30 or so years old. i suspect the block was leaking water into the crankcase.
12-08-2012 08:03 PM
eherlihy
Re: Water in oil

Minnie, and Ultimatesailer,

I suggest that if a repower is ever on your agenda that you seriously consider a Universal/Westerbeake or a Beta Marine engine. These are all based on Kubota Tractor engines; spare parts are universally available, and the prices of tractor parts are reasonable (about 1/3 of marine parts).

I have rebuilt or replaced all kinds of stuff on my M-25. Coolant pump, governor, thermostat, lots of gaskets, raw water pump, etc... If I had to do this on a Volvo, I'd be broke. Because the Kubota dealer is a mile from my home, I can afford to keep the boat on a slip, and the engine runs GREAT.
12-08-2012 11:57 AM
Minnewaska
Re: Water in oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post
minnie,

If you ever had to repower and the costs were equal would you repower with a Volvo?

Dave
Excellent question. Probably not.

The issue that would put me over to Yanmar is the abundance of experience available to troubleshoot.
12-08-2012 10:23 AM
chef2sail
Re: Water in oil

minnie,

If you ever had to repower and the costs were equal would you repower with a Volvo?

Dave
12-08-2012 09:47 AM
Minnewaska
Re: Water in oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockter View Post
...Oh, and I must add, don't ever buy a Volvo. Never. The engine cost is competitive when you buy the motor, but the cost of the spare parts is astronomical......
I have a Volvo and don't find this to be terrible true anymore. Parts are available online, where they used to sit on shelves and, being in less demand in the US, would cost more to make up for the slow inventory cost. Still a bit of a premium, but not a huge deciding factor in my mind.

The bigger issue is access to mechanics that know the motor well enough to diagnose oddities. They just don't see as many. I'm having that frustration right now.

When working properly, I do like my Volvo. It is quieter and runs at lower RPM than the comparable Yanmar for our boat. Coincidentally, the raw water impeller is right in front of your face on the Volvo and the Yanmar would require you to contort to access from the side.
12-08-2012 09:32 AM
Rockter
Re: Water in oil

On my Volvo MD17C, it happened to me twice...

A : the water pump seal had failed and seawater was blowing past and in to the engine directly.

B : one of the cylinder base O-rings had failed, and coolant was getting in to the motor.

I fixed the first one with a new pump.

The second one took much longer. I had to pull the heads and barrels off, the dealer pressure tested them and found the leak. It was a lot of work to re-assemble it, but we prevailed.

Oh, and I must add, don't ever buy a Volvo. Never. The engine cost is competitive when you buy the motor, but the cost of the spare parts is astronomical. In 1998, an exhaust manifold was $2000, on what was a 20 year old engine. Such was the Volvo mentality in 1998. I doubt if it has changed.
12-08-2012 02:44 AM
Capt. Gary Randall
Re: Water in oil

does this particular model engine have an oil cooler?
12-08-2012 01:18 AM
sww914
Re: Water in oil

Any news here?
11-09-2012 03:19 PM
chucklesR
Re: Water in oil

Unless that Universal is raw water cooled, have the oil tested to see if it has antifreeze in it (oil test kits are available, or you can ship off a sample to a tester).

If it's got antifreeze in it the head is cracked or a passage has opened.

If it doesn't, it's the pump, unless you are floating in a sea of antifreeze.
11-09-2012 02:58 PM
eherlihy
Re: Water in oil

Oh yea;

The most sailent point in the thread referenced above is this;
Quote:
Let me recap: $178 in parts, plus time to rebuild, or $200 for a new pump...

Let me suggest to all of you that you simply BUY A NEW PUMP if you have a problem.
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