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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Shower Pan
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Thread: Shower Pan Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-19-2012 10:49 PM
fallard
Re: Shower Pan

We replaced our teak plywood head sole with a Teakflex grate several years ago and are quite happy with it. The grate is comprised of slats that run fore-aft and are screwed and bunged to athwart stringers. We've varnished it for ease of cleaning.

While you are redoing your head, be sure to facilitate scum removal from your sump. Standing gray water can generate some funky smells after a week or two. Our whole grate is removable for this purpose, but is also has a removable section that allow us to readily access the deepest part of the sump.
11-19-2012 09:01 PM
deltaten
Re: Shower Pan

re: tile?

The epoxy; both thin-set and grout, would hold. the tile would probably chip, crack and break out. Epoxy tile does not like flex in the substrate at all. The epoxy would flex some; but it is hard enuff for the tile to compress against the grout and chip. Another look at it might be the silicone grouts offered?

Just sayin'

I think the 'fair and paint' is the best/quickest option. Next would be the teak grating.... very nice touch on a boat. Another take is textured, white (roofing) rubber, laid like sheet vinyl (or a roof...huh! )

Lotsa option out there
11-19-2012 07:47 PM
jarod
Re: Shower Pan

Ok you have a point there will be certain circumstances where I have to sit to pee. no matter how emasculating it is!
11-19-2012 07:09 PM
chef2sail
Re: Shower Pan

Quote:
someone (me) needs to stand to pee in my house and on the boat. I do most of the cleaning at the boat anyway.-Jarod
Let me know how this works out in a 12-15 knot breze with your wife at the helm or with 3 foot chop. Paint the walls a few times will convince you sometimes its worth sitting down like a girl.

Dave
11-19-2012 05:55 PM
jarod
Re: Shower Pan

Thanks for the responses

I think I will fair it out properly to ensure i get good slope to the drain I will test with water spray to ensure it doesn't pool anywhere. I will then paint it over with perfection or similar 2 part epoxy paint then put down some of that dri-deck stuff or a teak grate as suggested. I will install some tile for a decorative touch on some of the vertical surfaces to keep my wife happy. I am leaning a bit towards the dri-deck stuff because of its low maintenance qualities. My aim/shot is often wide of the target so it would be nice to have something that has no absorbency. The dri-deck could be removed quickly and easily for cleaning the substrate. I refuse to pee like a girl.....I have a wife and three young daughters and its my belief that someone (me) needs to stand to pee in my house and on the boat. I do most of the cleaning at the boat anyway.

Jarod
11-19-2012 04:29 PM
Faster
Re: Shower Pan

Sounds like a good job, hylite.. do you have a pic of the result?
11-19-2012 04:21 PM
svHyLyte
Re: Shower Pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
I think I'd steer away from tile too, myself.. some minimal fairing and a good nonskid should do the job, but don't make it too harsh since, as a shower obviously people will be barefoot on it.

By the sounds of it the curvature may preclude the removable grid....
I made a teak shower base on the curved floor in the head of our Cal 2-29 by laying down 1"x2" teak stringers fore'n aft about 6" apart and screwing these into the glass pan beneath. I then made side to side cross pieces by laminating 1/8" x 1" wide teak batten strips across the stringers, spaced roughly 1" apart (and obviously not on top of the screws holding the stringers in place on the underlying pan). The first of the cross pieces were held in place with epoxy adhesive where they crossed each of the stringers together with small (#6) flat head wood screws through the battens and into the underlying stringers. Once the epoxy cured and the first of the cross pieces were fixed in place, I laid second, then third, then forth, etc, battens on top of the previously placed battens--each held in place with epoxy and small screws until the epoxy cured, after which the screws were removed--until I had cross pieces 5/8" thick. The screws in the last of the cross pieces were pulled and the screw holes drilled to accept 1/4" plugs. Because of the curvature of each successive batten, and the epoxy adhesive between each, one could unscrew the screws holding the stringers in place without the "grate" springing flat. A little work with an Exacto knife and a "Mouse" palm sander cleaned and smoothed the battens and a couple of coats of "Amazon Brazilian Lemon Oil" that polishes up nicely, smells good, and blocks mold finished the job. That was long about 1987 and the home made grating is still going strong.

FWIW...
11-19-2012 03:12 PM
chef2sail
Re: Shower Pan

Tile may be a bitch to clean as well as presenting places for the water to intrude into the "grout". Be carefull adding additional texture to the floor as it may make it perpetually look dirty after cleaning, We have a teak insert on our solid fibergalss pan whici you can remove easily and it given great traction when wet.

dave
11-19-2012 02:26 PM
hellosailor
Re: Shower Pan

Small mosaic tiles, one inch tiles, set in epoxy and using an epoxy-fortified grout to resist cracking and leaking, probably would work well.

Personally I think I'd just go for white pick-up truck bed liner, which has some texture, can be applied in multiple coats, will be light and easy to clean with no grout lines at all. Can be used as anti-skid on the companionway steps, etc. as well. Not as good, but also not as hard on bare feet, as the kind that have sand or other spiky stuff in them.
11-18-2012 11:53 PM
Faster
Re: Shower Pan

I think I'd steer away from tile too, myself.. some minimal fairing and a good nonskid should do the job, but don't make it too harsh since, as a shower obviously people will be barefoot on it.

By the sounds of it the curvature may preclude the removable grid....
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