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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-06-2013 01:25 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

To update my status with this situation I have decided to go with a new transmission. After hours and hours of reading and research I've decided to go with a Twin Disc MG 360. I've heard too much about faulty ZF/Hurths, and only good things about the Twin Disc. The 340 is a bit under sized for my Universal 5432 and the 360 is a bit over.

Given how much motoring and cruising we do, I want robust systems!

It will require the removal of the shaft, shortening of the shaft by about 1.8" and while I'm doing that I will replace my engine mounts again (4 years old) and my cutless bearing (6 years old). Both could last longer, but they are cheap enough to replace and I would have no reason to pull my shaft and engine any time again soon.

I will post later on the installation process, as I have had an impossible time finding other good posts with pictures on making the switch.

As we prepare for our circumnavigation of Vancouver Island this summer, It will be really nice to have a new drive train in place!
12-22-2012 11:02 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

There is no question the tranny on a Gulf 32 CAN be removed with the boat in the water, it is more that I haven't given it any thought and would need to work around the PSS seal as Faster mentioned.

I plan to call a few tranny shops and ask their opinion of my question here, and if I learn anything of value from them I will try to post it here. Whatever final solution I pursue, I will also post.

Happy post-solstice everyone!
12-22-2012 05:44 AM
Re: Hurth engagement question

Really, the transmission should come off with the boat in the water.
Disconnect the final drive, take off the flexible coupling, and push the driveshaft aft.
The gearbox should come off then, or someone has overlooked a basic.
The idea of having to lift a boat out of the water, disconnect the prop, drift off the final drive coupling and pull the propshaft out just to get the gearbox off is a monumental design error.
I doubt if anyone has been that stupid.
12-21-2012 07:49 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

Do be careful of relieving the pressure on that seal.. it's often the 'push' from the coupling position that maintains the pressure. If the bellows can 'push your prop shaft' inboard that will end up releasing some of the seal pressure. Perhaps more of an issue with a strut/shaft than a prop in an aperture like you have.

When we pulled our gear with a PSS seal as a precaution I heavily taped the collar to the seal just in case things 'slipped'....

To see if the actuating cam is worn down as I described it's simply release the control cable, undo 4 bolts that hold the plate on and the lever and the internal cam come out clean.. though I suppose your access may not be that great with the engine deepish in the bilge.
12-21-2012 07:29 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

I change the fluid in my tranny every year or about 100 hours. I'm about to change it again as part of my winter maintenance, but don't suspect that is my issue.

I can't really deal with the tranny until she is hauled out, easily, and once she is out the clock is racing and the money spending. It's just not a time when I can bring the tranny home and spend 2 week carefully taking it apart and then to a machine shop and all that. Even though that is a logical and good thing to do.

As a practical matter, when I have the boat hauled, I can pull the tranny and replace the damper plate and put it back together and then back in the water but if that doesn't fix it...

I guess it may be possible to pull my tranny while Aeolus is in the water, I haven't thought about it much. I have and love a PSS shaft seal, so I suppose I would only need to push that back enough to free up the tranny...
12-20-2012 10:23 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

Originally Posted by PorFin View Post

If you haven't changed your ATF recently, you might see some improvement once you do.
I didn't believe it either until we changed the fluid
12-20-2012 07:16 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question


I've never torn into my HBW-100. That said, I did a fair amount of reading up on the box while contemplating doing an overhaul myself. I eventually decided to take it to a transmission shop and have them pop it on a dynamo-meter to check its health. They gave it an OK, and since they had it I had them replace the seals.

If you haven't changed your ATF recently, you might see some improvement once you do.

Another SWAG in addition to the ones already mentioned:
- Clutch plate wear.
12-20-2012 05:59 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

Hey Faster, thanks, and hope you are doing well up there. Saw Smith Island has been having 50 knot winds and that the northern Salish Sea has been getting its usual winter punishment. Love it.

Your suggestion sort of hits a nail on the head, which is whether my trouble is fixable by me, and worth the trouble and time, or whether it's time for a new one. New they are about $1,200 and rebuilt is not much less. I'm quite capable for a home mechanic, but don't have lots of extra time, especially when the tranny is pulled.

I'm hoping some more people might have particular expertise with Hurth being fully engaged easily but not sticking in gear until revved up a bit. More ideas welcomed.
12-20-2012 02:20 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

We had a similar issue on a previous boat.. wouldn't go into gear, but when I removed the shift arm plate I was able to push the shuttle mechanism inside by hand and it engaged OK.

I took the plate, lever and actuating cam to a machine shop and had them build up the 'cam' a little so it would push the internal 'shuttle' farther. Worked fine for the remainder of our ownership (another 3-4 years, IIRC)
12-20-2012 02:14 PM
Re: Hurth engagement question

mine just didn't go in gear! changed the fluid (it needs to be replaced often I found out) dot3 fluid I think it needs.
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