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The traveler on my boat is bolted down to the cockpit, through a section of fiberglass (sort of). This is hard to describe, but the bolts pass through two layers of plastic with a void about half an inch or so between them. So, when I tighten the bolts, the plastic deflects and its not as sturdy or leak proof as I would like.
So, I want to fill the void with epoxy, but the void is much too big to be completely filled. I am trying to figure out how to get an epoxy plug in there and then re-drill it, kind of like if I was adding a bolt through a balsa core.
Of course, if it was cored, I would hollow out some of the core around the hole and fill with epoxy. But there is no core.
The only thing I can think is maybe use some minimally expanding foam, as is sold at Home depot for insulation. Maybe inject some int here, let it harden, then hollow it out and fill with epoxy? I am thinking the foam will absorb the epoxy though.
The plastic is part of the boat. Basically, the top layer is the outside of the cockpit, the the bottom layer is the inside of the boat. Here is a not great pic of the traveler:
Its hard to see but its bolted down. The bolts go through the track, into the void them come out the bottom. The "bottom" is plastic just above the quarter birth.
I have no access to the void. It would be easier to fill if I did.
Aha.... the 'bottom' layer is the liner, then? Are you sure the deck side is not cored? If they've bolted through the deck and the liner to that's unfortunate.. as you say the parts compress.. usually the liner ends up cracking at some point, they are usually pretty thin.
If the deck is cored there (likely) I'd be very tempted to drill some nice clean 1" holes in the liner below at each throughbolt, rebolt the traveler with fender washers (to the deck proper), and then find some bungs (you can get plastic knockout plugs from an electrical supplier) to close the holes.. it won't look as clean, perhaps, but your traveler will thank you...
The liner, yes! The prior owner moved the traveler and put it here. I'm not sure where it was, although its in a good spot now.
I am sure there is no core there, I can see into the opening when the bolts are out. Your idea is a good one, that had not occurred to me, thanks. But it just seems like it would be more sturdy if I can fill that void.
I was just about to add that it sounds an awful lot like a liner.
Good job Faster...
And like you said, access it from below by opening up some access holes large enough to get a socket wrench or something up in there, than fabricate a removable cover. If it is in an area that is not exposed the cover may or may not be necessary.
Could be a (head?) liner; but it could be the hull/sole shell. If so..... just drill a big hole in the upper layer and a bolt size hole in the lower. Stuff the void beyond the lip of the upper out... say....3/4"... and tape over the bottom hole. Fill w/fibred epoxy/gorilla hair and once cured; redrill to spec. The traveler will cover the oversized, filled holes.
Filling the void can be hit/miss and still have future problems. Better to do as recommended earlier - unbolt the traveller (probably 3/16 or 1/4 holes, same as a hole saw arbor), use 1" hole (larger if neccesary) saw to drill through liner from bottom, rebed traveller with butyl & insert shorter bolts (so they no longer pass through the liner) using fender washers to spread the load. Alternately, if you have access, fabricate an 1/8" thick aluminum back up plate the length of the traveller, drill holes in back up plate slightly larger than bolt diameter, slide plate between deck & liner & bolt together (if limited access you might cut the backup plate in half and each half in from either side. Cosmetic caps to fit holes or teak (or acrylic) cover plate to fit across bottom of liner to pretty it up. The liner shouldn't be structural in this area.
I like your plan of filling with foam, hollowing out a void and then fill void with thickened epoxy. The foam won't absorb the epoxy because it's closed cell. Just use the foam sparingly.
The liner cosmetic caps could be something like these from McMaster-Carr: SnapIn Plugs
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