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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed
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Thread: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-18-2013 01:14 PM
Faster
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

How did you bond the bulkheads into place? Sorry if I missed that earlier...
02-18-2013 12:28 PM
rhr1956
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

I'm nearly done with the bulkhead project. Finished the install and painting yesterday. Just a few screws in the starboard bulkhead and re-mounting the chainplates will do it. I'll put some stain on the little button bungs that hide the screws on the posts and header. I also removed the teak trim along the cubby holes along the sides. They are sanded, stained and have one coat of varnish. Two more coats and back in the boat.



02-09-2013 02:09 PM
BELLATRIX1965
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhr1956 View Post
I've never used a Multimaster tool but it looks interesting.
I have - for similar structrual fiberglass work. The Fein Multimaster is (as others have said) an awesome tool! They are expensive, but the cost amounts to only a few hours equivalent of boatyard labor $$. The cutter blade options are many, and you are sure to find the right blade for your job. Oh, and I would stick with a genuine Fein, with the quick - change blade option. The knock-off tools are just not the same.

No connection to Fein here - just a VERY satisfied customer!
Good luck with your project!
02-08-2013 01:12 PM
rhr1956
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

RichH, thanks for all the input and ideas. Fortunately for me, I was able to get the old bulkhead out virtually intact. Only a small section (that which was tabbed to the hull) came out separately but I was able to fit the pieces together for a template. After cutting the new bulkhead, all I could think about was your statement..."You're NOT going to get a new one-piece bulkhead into a P26 or other similar Pearson bulkhead into the flange configuration." I tried fitting the one piece into place and began to think you were right. Then I had a thought...what if I remove the forward bilge cover? Bingo! The new bulkhead slipped right into place. Here it is.


As for the repair of the compression posts, I decided to make brand new ones out of white oak. They are done, stained and varnished. I also peeled off the old veneer from the header beam and re-veneered with oak. It also is stained and varnished. I'm looking forward to getting things back together. I'll post pics when done.
01-21-2013 03:01 PM
RichH
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Caution here with total replacement of a P26 bulkhead!!!!!

As may you already know the 'bulkhead' and integral 'compression post' is the main structural support ... and its captured within a flanged configuration on the 'overhead' etc. It was OEM inserted BEFORE the hull and top deck was assembled. You're NOT going to get a new one-piece bulkhead into a P26 or other similar Pearson bulkhead into the flange configuration.

The simple solution will be to cut out (with careful precision) only the affected area and into adjacent 'good wood' and slip in new ... like doing wood inlay work for a jigsaw puzzle and then structurally joining the 'insert' to the rest of the main bulkhead via epoxy and 'structural battens', (white oak) etc. at the perfectly straight 'seams' between old and new. (this is a job for a 'multi-master' and a steel straight edge.)

First thing on the flanged Pearson bulkhead design is to check for the condition of rot at the bottom of the 'so-called' compression post (in the bilge !!!!) - easiest way is to see if the head companionway door 'hardware - hinges/lock,etc.' correctly/perfectly 'lines' up with the mating hardware of the bulkhead end AND that the door can open/close without binding in its 'jambs'.
Its the bulkhead that provides the upward force to support the mast, the compression post only supplies the upward force to the bottom section of bulkhead and stiffens the bulkhead ... very clever! When constructed, Pearson dropped in the bulkhead/post, put the two boat halves together .... and then .... drove a wooden wedge under the post in the bilge and simply tabbed over with cloth and polyester to hold the wedge in place. Most old pearsons will have that wedge missing or rotted (and the rot usually spreads into the post base), the bulkhead now loose, etc. The remedy is to cut/grind away all that 'tabbing' in the bilge and then make teeny test holes into the post base (any discolored 'drillings' is ROT), cut away any zone of rotted 'post' and replace with a solid FRG base ... and a solid FRG wedge, etc. The new FRG wedge driven in 'hard' under the new 'pedestal' base will provide and return the proper 'load' into the bulkhead.
Once you have verified the proper vertical compressive strain in the bulkhead, then you can 'fix' the errant problem under your chainplates, once the bulkhead has been correctly 're-set'.

The remedy for rot in outer edge of the bulkhead is simply 'cut and paste' ... and structurally joining the old the to new and 're-tabbing' to the hull. If the post end in the bilge isnt rotted, should be a quite simple job. Use 'quality' plywood for the replacement, and 'epoxy' cover all the exposed ends to prevent future rot. Tabbing in the new 'insert' to the hull will be the most important with respect to the 'shroud loads' ... you want the tabbing to 'rounded' and well 'filleted' ... overbuild the 'tabbing and fillets' !!!! ... to prevent 'hard spots' on the hull outer surfaces on that 'thin' hull.
Just unload most all the rigging strain, no need to unship the mast, just use a halyard(s), etc. to keep the mast 'upright' when you release/disconnect the cap shroud.

Most of the 'internet' solutions for your problem should be similar to this offered solution. There used to be a very extensive Pearson 26 website ... but is now abandoned/defunct. Perhaps someone on this 'list' may have some portions of the website saved and can share.

How's your 'rudder bearings'?


hope this helps, PM me if you need further.
01-21-2013 01:18 PM
deltaten
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

I'd recommend replacing the entire post! Having done both that and repairs to structural columns. repl. is the way ta go
01-21-2013 12:30 PM
rhr1956
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Question about compression posts. Both posts show water staining up about 3-4 inches from the bottom where they contact the cabin sole. One post seams solid. The other is crumbling at its foot. If I cut off the bad wood and fabricate a replacement piece, what is the best way to join the two pieces? When I start putting things back together, I'm going to have to bang the posts around a little to bit to get them back into place and I don't want to knock the added-on piece lose.
01-21-2013 10:44 AM
misfits
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by misfits View Post
Get an angle grinder & slap a cutting wheel on it.
Then you can put a sanding disk on it to clean things up.
Agree w/ captinmeme, take em out in one piece for templates
Multi Tool has it uses, this is not one of them.
01-21-2013 10:41 AM
rhr1956
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Update: Using the multi-tool I cut through the entire length of the tabbed area of the bulkhead. I went as deep as the blade would allow...about 1/2 inch. The bulkhead is "stuck like chuck"...can't get it lose. I'm wondering if when they tabbed it in, they let resin run down the gaps between the liner and bulkhead causing it to be "glued" in. Now I'm thinking of using one of those inertia slide hammers to see if I can bust it lose. What do you think?
01-14-2013 06:40 PM
SloopJonB
Re: Bulkhead Replacement-Advice Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainmeme View Post
You really want to keep the bulkheads intact so you can use them as patterns for the new bulkheads..
Sounds like a good idea but my experience is that by the time a bulkhead needs replacing and has been cut out, its utility as a pattern is moot.

My advice is to Google "joggle stick" and use that process instead. Once you fully understand it and position your marking board on the correct vertical plane, it is absolutely miraculous. I have "joggled" main bulkheads which fit like they came from a CNC cutter.

It works better than a simpler tick stick because it leaves much clearer markings.
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