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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > rusting stainless
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-22-2013 02:29 PM
AE28
Re: rusting stainless

Some of the REALLY cheap grades of 200 Series from India are also non-magnetic.
03-22-2013 02:05 AM
overbored
Re: rusting stainless

Spotless Stainless it will clean it up and passivate in one step Home - Spotless Stainless Removes Rust, Protects Stainless Steel
all stainless steel will rust because it contains Iron. the surface should be mechanically or electrically polished and then passivated. the polishing helps allow the surface to dry and not hold moisture. the passivation removes the surface iron molecules, and then it is rinsed with DI water and then allowed to air dry which forms chromium oxide on the surface this helps protect the stainless steel from corrosion.

Never polish after passivation or you will remove the protective oxide and it will rust
03-22-2013 12:49 AM
Lazy D
Re: rusting stainless

Bar keepers friend and a lot of elbow grease helps keep the bloom at bay.
02-03-2013 12:44 PM
PAULCR1
Re: rusting stainless

Put a magnet on it. If it sticks or offers resistance then the SS is a 400 (martensitic) series SS. The 400 series SS is more likely to rust. The 300 series (autenitic) is non-magnetic, unless severely worked, and less likely to rust.
02-03-2013 11:26 AM
Minnewaska
Re: rusting stainless

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
....I can buy a simple high quality clevis pin that holds up my mast from a reliable vendor that will get hammered with saltwater everyday and NOT ever rust just because its really SS
I'm not going to go back and audit all the replies, but I thought that was generally the input the OP received. They were sold inferior SS. There are different grades and they got the wrong one.
02-03-2013 10:11 AM
tommays
Re: rusting stainless



The point is this SS outdrive water pump housing got a saltwater bath for 9 years and came out looking like that





Myself and the entire fabrication world in every Bakery and Pharmaceutical plant bombards SS with salt-brined fluids and all kinds of harshness and just does just NOT have all the issues that seem to plague the boating world on a simple part that leads a pretty easy life

I can buy a simple high quality clevis pin that holds up my mast from a reliable vendor that will get hammered with saltwater everyday and NOT ever rust just because its really SS
02-03-2013 08:43 AM
Minnewaska
Re: rusting stainless

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
About 98% of the SS advise is just never ending amazingly wrong

I am going to go with most of you are just NOT getting 316 no matter what you think unless you paid for the diploma
I think I know your point, but with a ton of pics and no specific retort to advice given, its a bit hard to follow.
02-03-2013 07:50 AM
tommays
Re: rusting stainless


















About 98% of the SS advise is just never ending amazingly wrong

I am going to go with most of you are just NOT getting 316 no matter what you think unless you paid for the diploma
02-03-2013 07:22 AM
Minnewaska
Re: rusting stainless

I hate to say it, but the path of least resistance is to have it re-built at another port and chalk this one up to experience.
02-03-2013 07:16 AM
worldcruiser63
Re: rusting stainless

I have been making custom stainless yacht fittings in tropical Australia for 15 years.Before you do any work, get a magnet place it near your problem stainless, it will not react if the metal is 316 grade,if you feel a slight pull towards the metal or the magnet sticks your panel holders have been made with 304 or a lower grade, if this is the case my recommendation would be to sand and paint the metal with a good quality 2pac epoxy paint otherwise the 304 will absorb salt over time and become brittle and crack near the welds and other heat affected area's... if after magnet test you believe the panel rack to be 316 ( I suspect it is a lower grade from what you say ) you can buy a stainless passivating paste at welding supply shops I use to clean the weld areas when I am fabricating. This is a gel, paint it on with a brush, be careful not to get it on your skin or eyes, leave for 30 min then hose or wash it off with water, it comes off easily, make sure you get it all though! As for sanding always finnish with at least 600 grit and make sure it is good quality (some cheap brands have iron filing embedded in the surface and this will re-contaminate your stainless) sand before passivating then polish.... remember stainless is just that ..stain less not stain proof.. maintenance is the key to a long lasting polish
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