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Windlass Installation
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Some have requested that I post a thread on my current project for Windy Way. Total cost for this so far is about $500 including wire & hardware. I've been scrounging parts for about a year for this. I'm an economical type of guy :o (some may say cheap) so I wait for the good deals. I still don't know at this point if the 3" tube for the rode will work out or if the rope will bunch up inside it. I'm using 5/8 dia rope cause that is what the LEWMAR Concept 1 windlass calls for and I've chosen 3 strand nylon cause it's stiffer & hopefully won't bunch up. Storage under the FWD V berth has lots of room so there's no issue there. There is an UP switch beside the windlass and a DOWN & UP switch on the stbrd cockpit bulkhead. More often than not I'll only be using the UP switch & lowering the hook manually. (saves power).
I took a picture of the holes in the deck to show how thick it is up there, these boats are built well that's for sure. You can also see the faint outline of the Hauser hole I had to fill. I didn't want to be too anal about the finish here cause it's being all covered up. Yes the windlass is not centered on the deck, I did this so the rode would miss the forestay when the mast is up. (I almost forgot about this) |
Re: Windlass Installation
Looks nice. I suppose that first hole for the rode is open all the time to the hull though isn't it?
My thought on this was to cut out an anchor locker hatch, glass in where the forward bulkhead is and put a thru hull in. A heck of a lot more work though. |
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Wouldn't a hole cut to allow a locker hatch seriously weaken the foredeck? It would also take up valuable real estate up there, I like to sit up there while underway, one of my favorite spots.I also still have some storage (for pajamas?) in the FWD bulkhead. |
Re: Windlass Installation
Gotcha, I didn't think that too much water would get in.
For the locker, I think you would strengthen the foredeck quite a bit by making that front bulkhead permanently glassed in. I also don't know that I would make it big enough for the anchor to live in (although it would be nice), but even a small hatch to be able to store and sort the anchor rode would be nice. But your solution looks quite workable since you can still get to it. |
Re: Windlass Installation
Looks like it works, and that is what is important. If the 3 strand gets hockled you may have an issue with the pipe - try eight strand as it is generally hockle proof.
How are you powering the windlass? I've got a similar project coming on my new to me Irwin 38 CC as it came with no windlass. I figure I can pay 2.5k for one, or I can pay a chiropractor 2.5k for a temporary solution. I'll do a thread on it once I begin. I'm still in the 'thinking' stage on the power source (house bank with a 120amp breaker as a windlass of the size I need willl draw 80-100 normally) - or a localized group 31 battery and echo charger (again, properly fused). |
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Looks like a tidy job.. will be interested to hear whether or not the rope rode makes it 'down the spout' so to speak in practice.. Could be you'll need someone below to assist until you get to chain.
Where do you keep your boat? |
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Just curious... we're in the same area. Wish we could bring the boat home like that ;)
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