O'Day 30 Cutless Bearing Dimensions - SailNet Community
 
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O'Day 30 Cutless Bearing Dimensions

1978 O'Day 30 with Yanmar YSB12.

Does anybody know what the dimensions are for the cutlass bearing? I am thinking 1" shaft, 2" OD and 4" length. Any suggestions on cutlass bearing metallic vs. non-metallic?

I also have a PSS dripless seal which is no longer dripless. I plan to have the boat hauled this week to replace. Any suggestions concerning dripless vs. traditional? I am thinking about returning to a traditional Buck Algonquin packing box. I notice that my PSS dripless seal does not have a provision for venting (perhaps earlier model) and as a result perhaps air was trapped at the carbon ring and it overheated. PSS new approximately $280 vs. $85 traditional.

I assume the hose size is 2"... hose that goes over the stern tube?

Help! This is new to me and will need to get done quick.
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Re: O'Day 30 Cutless Bearing Dimensions

Here is all of the gory detail from when I upgraded my O'day 35 drive line; Contemplating a drive line overhaul

The cutless bearing was a Duramax (BAIT) 1" x 1 3/8" x 4"

I suspect that the stern tube, and cutlass bearing are the same for your O'30

Also, the new PSS bellows assembly (which should be replaced every 6 years) should have the vent built in. Despite what other posters recommended, I would not go back to the old Buck Algonquin stuffing box.


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Re: O'Day 30 Cutless Bearing Dimensions

Thank-you for the response. I had the boat hauled out and while on a trailer made the repairs.

Although I purchased the Duramax cutlass bearing (BAIT) the existing cutlass bearing was good and so I did not replace. The Duramax (BAIT) cutlass bearing was the correct one for the O'Day 30 I have. I verified this with measurements using a ruler and caliper.

I went back with a traditional Buck Algonquin stuffing box. I had ordered one for a 1 3/4" stern tube. After removal of the old PSS seal I discovered that the tube was actually 1 1/2" and had to reorder. The stern tube has a bit of a taper to it with heavier glass beyond where the PSS was attached thus the mistake despite the measure with a caliper.

The toughest part of the whole job was removal and reinstall of the transmission flange that was attached to the 1" stainless shaft. PB Blaster works miracles. The flange finally came off. It was necessary to warm with a torch to get it to slide back on and even then again the PB Blaster was necessary.

This whole episode was not a fun job. When returning to work on a Monday I felt as though I suffered an attack with a baseball bat.

The PSS seal is a great product. Mine failed due to a misaligned engine ( I think). I had to realign the engine so as to mate with the transmission flange properly. The old YSB-12 shakes quite a bit and I guess somehow either moved out of position or was never aligned to begin with. Much care and the use of a feeler gauge resolved this when mating back to the flange on the shaft.

I have attached a picture that illustrates the carbon disk of the old PSS seal and from this you can see where the shaft was running against the disk. The bellows still look as new. The PSS seal is at least 8 to 9 years old.
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