Keel Hull joint

[Seekswind]

This is my first year on the Hard with my O'Day 28. I have been asking around about the Keel hull joint. I was informed that instead of using expoxy and fairing the keel that I could simply clear out the old debri in the joint and then simply use 5200 to redo the joint. Then after it harden simply paint over. Please let me know your thoughts.

[wlcoxe]

How about checking the previous thread? Your 28 doesn't HAVE a hull-to-keel joint, so I'm not sure what what you're looking at. Unless you have the 280, about which I know nothing. Good luck!

[Seekswind]

I did follow up on the O'Day 28s. I was informed by Rudy of D&R Marine who was a former employee of O'Day that in 83 the re-tooled and went to a cast iron bolt on keel. In 84-85 they went to lead bolt on keels. Given that I am still looking for feed back on the original post.

[Gary M]

What I use is Marinetex epoxy. Simply clean out the bad stuff and spead it in. Sets up very hard so smooth is out fairly well when you apply it. Does not shrink. Very durable and bonds very well.

[FrankLanger]

Gary, would the Marinetex not re-crack with the significant pressure on the keel while heeling? I have heard of people using 5200, as it might remain more flexible, yet still seal the joint. Any thoughts?
Frank.

[Gary M]

If your keel nuts are properly torque I would not expect any movement from your keel. However I guess that could depend on the boat construction. Marintex is very hard so it might crack if flexed but it is very strong and bonds very well. I have used it for this purpose about 3 times with good results.

Will be putting some on my current boat shortly, it is one I purchased last year and am in the process of replacing the final 2 keel nuts and washers and retorquing them all.

Gary

[FrankLanger]

Thanks, Gary. I'll keep it in mind for future.
Frank.

[Seekswind]

Gary
You mentioned Torquing the nuts. Is there a specific Torque using a proper torque wrench or are you just using a wrench to get them snug?

Thanks

[Gary M]

Yes theoretically you are supposed to use a torque wrench. You would have to get the proper values from the builder or some where else like a class board. However on my 30 ft boat I have been given 2 specs, 250 and 400 foot pounds so I chose to use the higher value.

Not everyone has access to a large torque wrench so typically 400 pounds of torque is about all an average man could get on it with a 20 to 30 inch socket handle. In most cases you are compressing on solid glass so I personally do not see a problem with being a bit on the high side.

[FrankLanger]

I have heard that to do this properly, one needs to have the boat on dry dock and the keel supported; otherwise the weight of the keel would make it almost impossible to tighten the bolts properly. If this is so, trying to retorque the keel bolts with the boat in the water would not be effective. Does anyone know if this is true?
Frank.