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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > O'Day
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  #1  
Old 02-11-2007
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Rebedding Sail tracks

First time rebedding sail tracks this spring. Any advice on techniques and products would be very helpful to me as I am new to sailing.

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Old 04-07-2007
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Rebedding Sail Tracks

No takers, huh?

I've got to do the same. Probably early this summer. I haven't done this task before either but I've rebedded quite a few exterior fixtures before; hand rails; cleats; etc. I plan on rebedding in the same fashion as other fixtures after inspecting the existing mounting holes to insure that there is no delamination. I'm not expecting that the area is cored (Karma is an '81 O'Day 34) but if it is, I'll enlarge the existing holes; epoxy and redrill them to insure that any future leaks do not get between the laminations.

I'm just not looking forward to unfastening and fastening all the fasteners.
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Old 04-07-2007
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Scott...I've done it several time but claim no particular expertise. Any leaks will come at the fasteners so it is important to bed them well and not tighten fully until the compound has fully set up or else you just squeeze it out of where it belongs. I used silicone on my fasteners and after loading up the holes and making sure the uppr threads of the bolts are well coated...I tighten down on the nuts just past finger tight...then wait for 24 hours to tighten fully so I have a nice rubber gasket under pressure for sealing. Hope that helps and no one tells me I've done it completely wrong. Worked for me!
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Old 04-08-2007
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Thanks, I've only got leaks at 2 fasteners on either side but am planning on pulling up both tracks and rebedding them. I'm wondering if I can get away with only siliconing the leakers?... Probably not, huh?
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Old 04-08-2007
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I would re-bed the whole thing as you'll just end up repeating the process...but as temporary solution, just doing the leaking fasteners till you have time to do the whole thing is fine.
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Old 04-13-2007
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Rebedding sail tracks

I ended up doing this on my O28 several years ago and found that for a portion of the track, the screws penetrated the deck AND the cabin liner, and for the rest of the track, there was no cabin liner, so it was just the deck. In any case, on my boat, which was a 1979, the deck was/is cored, and a significant part of the stbd section had to be peeled, the balsa removed, a synthetic core material installed, and the deck replaced. Rebedding is a whole lot easier with two people, one on deck with the screw driver and the other in the salon holding the wrench to the nuts. FWIW,
Bill Coxe, O40 Kukulcán, New London, CT
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Old 04-13-2007
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Yes, I'm afraid that's what the situation is on Karma. The screws penetrate through the cabin liner with plastic end caps on the inside. The nuts and washers are not on the outside of the cabin liner but are counter sunk so that they are secured to something between the cabin liner and the deck. When there is a leak it is coming from the under the screw and the leaking fluid contains something brown. Almost like a varnish when dried and stains the cabin liner.
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Old 04-13-2007
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Scott...with the mention of "brown stuff" I am now concerned that you have a plywood/balsa deck core water intrusion situation. I would absolutely encourage you to cut through the liner and get at the underside of that deck so you can remove the track and make sure you don't have any deck integrity issues. You can always put a teak wood trim "patch" on the inside liner to make things look good again and give you easy and permanent access to the track. If you do have some water incursion tht is LIMITED in size...small holes can be drilled in the deck and epoxy injected to stabilize the situation.
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Old 04-14-2007
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That's kinda what I was thinking also, soon as I get her back into the water and checked out for the season, I'll investigate further and post an update.
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Old 04-19-2007
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I have been rebedding the deck hardware on Shanti, my 1977 O'Day 27 as part of a major overhaul. Sounds like you are on the right path – over size holes, epoxy, rebore... I would add the following; when possible countersink - just slightly - the underside of the hardware even metal fittings can be countersunk. Teak or other wood fittings are easy of course. I also countersink the top of the deck just slightly into the fiberglass. This creates a small reservoir for the bedding material to sit in. It prevents total squeeze out and provides a thicker gasket right where you want it. I have been using Boat life caulk with success. Pay attention to the materials you are bonding not everything is compatible. Also remember you do not want to compromise the structural integrity of the deck or fittings.
I find child labor often to be very helpful …even when it is involuntary...
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