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post #11 of 48 Old 10-05-2009 Thread Starter
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yes. nice web site too! Moeller Marine Online - Fuel Storage Tanks

"Next best thing to not having a boat? The knowledge from having one!" Denise, Bristol PA, On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #12 of 48 Old 10-05-2010
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Fule Bladder

XSboats recommended taking the top off the tank and replace wiht a fuel bladder. I now have this same problem, which manufacturer would you recommend and any lessons putting in the bladder??
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post #13 of 48 Old 10-05-2010
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Dunno how you'll make the necessary cuts particularly the one at the back of the tank without removing the tank which at that point you may want to consider purchasing a replacement tank. The one for Karma was manufactured by Florida Marine Tanks, they still have the drawings and can fab one for you. They made the new tank for me out of a thicker gauge of aluminum and enamel painted the tank to keep corrosion at bay.

Here's a link to my r&r of Karma's tank: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/odayow...tart=1&dir=asc

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1981 O'Day 34
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post #14 of 48 Old 10-05-2010
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sailingcal21, quick question for you. In part of this thread, you mentioned that you cut a 3x18 in the starboard engine access panel. If I had them make the tank 3" shorter, do you think I could get the new one in?? I've calculated a 3" drop will reduce the volume to 25 gal which is acceptable for me and I would simply cut the old one out. How say you based on your experinece??
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post #15 of 48 Old 10-05-2010 Thread Starter
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SO34 did you miss part of this thread ? The old tank comes out intact. just cut the filler neck off. lift it out the port lazerette. Make a tank? 3" shorter.. just buy one job done!
ps: Had to remove mine this summer, had a mess of bad fuel someone gave me.. took all of 20 mins to remove the Moller, and about 20 mins to put it back. had about a pint and rust and water from the bad fuel. Lesson learned, never use "free" fuel and never ever fill without a filter funnel!

"Next best thing to not having a boat? The knowledge from having one!" Denise, Bristol PA, On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #16 of 48 Old 10-05-2010
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Denise, I'm presuming that SO34 has an O'Day 34 so his best removal side is starboard as opposed to the experience that you had. The filler end on the O'34 tank is toward the rear of the tank where the height of the tank is only 12" so there's ample room to remove the tank without cutting the filler neck. Then to replace it with an intact tank.

SO34, Denise is the experienced one with her O'30, so I'd follow her lead. If we're talking about and O'34, I've been there, done that and have the t-shirt.

IMHO, I'd suggest that you remove the batteries; remove the starboard engine access door; break loose the tank and attempt to remove it from the starboard side. Once you have the tank against the fiberglass scribe a line the length of the tank on the fiberglass and cut it away. If you take any care at all you should do a way better job than I, based on one of my pictures. Having made the cut, the tank will easily come out. I sweated out all sorts solutions and this was the most straightforward and the best one.

If you're determined to cut the tank up, go ahead chop it up all you want once its been removed . I've still got my old one in the backyard can't seem to part with it.

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post #17 of 48 Old 10-05-2010
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DeniseO30, thanks alot for your thoughts and I have really enjoyed many of your comments and thoughts on the subject. You guys have really explored all the options.

However, SailingCal21 is on target that I have an O'day 34, 1983 vintage. After many measurements, and reading about both of your experiences, I will have to agree the starboard engine access door is probably the best way for the 34' model.

I will have to admit that I am a little anal about cutting on the fiberglass (absolute last resort). After reading about how you pulled yours out, I have thought about cutting my tank into two parts, remove it and then go with a 15" tall tank that, by my measurements, should go in without major figerglass cutting. This is just a minor modification of your process to avoid the fiberglass issue and only compromising 5 gal capacity. Reading between the lines, from your experience, I imagine you had to **** the tank a little to get the filler nipple into the engine compartment first and then a little sweat and tears should get the tank back into the same area (3" shorter). From your vantage point, is this a reasonable assumption (i.e. 3 " shorter avoids glass cutting)?? Just thought I would ask from the experienced guy with the "t-shirt"

I did read about the guy you cut the tops off and used the bladder, but I am leaning towards what you guys did and use a new tank (Florida Marine or Moeller) and then I can get all the old wood out too.
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post #18 of 48 Old 10-05-2010 Thread Starter
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before you start cutting, really try getting it out the port laz. I'm sure the O30 and O34 are pretty close to the same in that respect. There is a long board that is up on edge that has to be removed. The tank did slide under the wiring harness that is all attached to the engine panel.

"Next best thing to not having a boat? The knowledge from having one!" Denise, Bristol PA, On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #19 of 48 Old 10-06-2010
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Denise, thanks and I will go back and remeasure. I am all for the easiest solution. Thanks again for help and quick responses.
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post #20 of 48 Old 10-06-2010
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Sailingcal21 - After reading the original thread a second time, I finally realized that you said the forward height was 18" and the aft was 12". This is most helpful. I have called the tank OEM as I believe you did and they are searching the files for the drawing. Question, was the bottom a straight plate that angled from the 18" to the 12" on the aft section? I am hoping to get the tank manufactured prior to pulling the old one out. Right now, if I keep the fuel level to 1/4 or less, the leakage is minimal and I can keep it out of the bilge with a couple of rags.
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