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How about a Hardin 45 Thread

66K views 93 replies 43 participants last post by  onnokok65 
#1 ·
OK, before I get beat up, I know Hardin's aren't sexy, they aren't fast, they can't manuever in close quarters, and there was only about 160 44 &45's made, but Hardin built a lot of plans out of Taiwan, including sea wolf, Vagabonds, and I think some of the Taiwan Petersons etc; the 44, 45, and anything else that he could contract to build, there's probably 1000's of Hardin built boats out there. So my question to why isn't there something under BUILDER'S ROW for all us guys that own Hardin built boats where we can share info and what little documentation what little we have on the history and experiences on this boat?

Anyone can go to a commercial builder's site for any of the clorex bottle boats, but how about us guys that have some craftsmanship and tradition built into the boats? Nothing -Nada - zip - zilch.

So....HUH? are we owners being slighted by fast, sexy and plastic? From the commercial point of view, we're old, and we spend a hella ofa lot of money on our boats to keep up the electronics, sails, rigging, lot's of varnish, and all kinds of other stuff.

So the question is, why is this venerable old boat being slighted on the largest sail boat info network in the world?

feeling slighted on the Pacific coast.
 
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#54 ·
My partner and I are interested in purchasing a Hardin 45 in the future. (We currently live on a Nonsuch 36.) As of right now, this is all based on information we've read. Is there anyone on this thread who has a Hardin 45 in the Destin Fl area who would be willing to show their boat off to a couple of hopefuls? Thanks!
 
#56 ·
I own a 1980 Hardin 45, 3 cabin model, Bodrum, sitting on the hard in Marathon Florida for a while. I've been making some changes and doing maintenance-(new prop shaft, and cutlass bearing-galvanic corrosion issue, re-working bonding copper, swapping a non-used depth sounder thru-hull for a water supply to the 2 new marine air conditioners and water-maker.) As well, its barrier coat and bottom paint time. I too would like to talk to someone that has pulled and replaced the front glass windows. The glass is fine but the sealants are gone and leaking is causing damage to the interior woodwork.
Bodrum is aux-powered with a 90 hp caterpillar diesel. I am interested in a good small diesel gen-set, that can power one A/C and am looking for the right place to mount it. Southern climates just have to have some cooling in the boat.
Bodrum had her teak removed before I bought her in 2009. I am looking for a method to reinstall at least some teak along the sides of the cabin to fill the vertical gap that was created between the deck and the scuppers. The scupper areas never correctly drain.
The boat was a Philadelphia boat, then taken to Salem, Massachusetts where I bought her and took her south. Great Espar diesel heater system though! I'm also looking for a source of matching original hardware for the boat. I have a couple of broken cabinet hinges, olive knuckle style, that I'd like to replace.
If the Destin Florida folks want to see her, please text 3053934745. Its a nice trip to the Keys from there, but we could work it out. Mark
 
#55 ·
I own a Hardin 45, hull #30, formerly named Gypsy (a guy named Kevin Woodall I believe from Long Beach sailed around the world in her). She sat in the Caribbean for a number of years then in Georgia for another 8 years so had a ridiculous amount of work in deferred maintenance to be done. I really questioned if it was a good idea to continue the project, but as I knock projects out (paint, teak, rigging, engine) I am more and more impressed with the build of these boats. They're unbelievably well built, making refurbishing everything really easy. All the stainless has been completely workable, and all the teak that just looked awful has come right back and looks beautiful now. The factory Perkins 4.236 engine is super easy to get rebuilt because they're industrial engines and there's about a million of them, perkins rebuilds them at the factory for $6K. Even the teak decks have been restorable and look like new now with no rot underneath to be found. The decks were a LOT of work to re-fasten, caulk, and sand, but they look beautiful now and I'm so glad I didn't glass the deck like so many advised me to do. The only completely un-serviceable things were my original spruce masts that were pretty rotten, but I'm replacing them with good used aluminum which is turning out to be pretty affordable. And of course all the paint...roll and tip interlux costing about $3K as opposed to the $15K awl grip job my boatyard quoted me. Oh, and the original port lights all need replacing as they're plastic and crumble, swapping for stainless.

I adore my boat. There hasn't been a second of regret, nor a moment where I've thought to myself, "wow, that's stupid, why did they build it THAT way" about any of the systems. I'm an IT systems architect and pretty particular. I drive an old BMW because it makes sense and is highly reliable and serviceable. And I'm the proud owner of a Hardin 45 about which I feel the same as my car. As a live-aboard, I prefer her to any apartment anywhere.

For how few of these there are, I'm surprised to see so many in the Pacific Northwest. I'm in Port Townsend where there is at least one other.
 
#67 ·
I have been lucky to own a 1979 Hardin Voyager 44 for the last 12 or so years. Many adventures behind us along the Pacific Coast of North American and many more to yet experience who knows where. Currently I am not on or at the boat but if any of you are and can measure your plastic port lights for me that would be great. I did this when on the Scotch Mist but seem to have misplaced my drawings and measurements.

Barry
 
#68 ·
Hello All, I own a 1981 Hardin Ketch which I am preparing for some long distance sailing. My boat was built without the teak decks and was pretty well cared for over the years but is in need up updating and maintenance. I am removing every pc. of deck hardware, removing any core in each hole, filling/sealing with epoxy and then rebedding/adding backing plates. I am replacing all of the original teak fairing blocks located under each stanchion with filled epoxy which is bonded to the prepared deck and painted to protect from UV after shaping. I had two minor leaks along the rail which I traced to two hawsepipes. I have removed the hawsepipes, created a fiberglass tube shaped the same as the bronze and bonded and glassed these to the inside of the bulwark and the hull creating a solid pass thru so that regardless of the caulking they will never leak again. I will do the rest of the hawsepipes as well even though they don't leak. The rigging wire seems to be a bit light compared to some other boats but doesn't actually look too far off when I do the calculations provided by Skeenes. I would be very interested in hearing what size wire is being used on other hardin 45's out there, especially the mainmast caps and lowers. I will be renewing all of the standing rigging and it would be great to know if anything should be changed/upgraded beforehand! I have been inspecting the chainplates below the cap rail after removing the cover plates/ caulking and also through the bolt holes, so far they look excellent, 0 cracks found so far. I am thinking of adding a fixed intermediate attached at the level of the inner forestay to prevent the spar from bending that would also add some additional redundancy to the rig. BTW I read one story of a Hardin 45 "Almesian" that was rolled completely over in a really bad storm off of the Carolina's years back, she came back up with both spars still in intact but unfortunately lost one of her big forward windows, quite a story. Part 2 of the story appears to still be available online. Sailnet won't let me post the link, but if you search on Gulf Stream Rescue + Hardin 45 it should come up.
Thanks for any input on the standing rigging. James
 
#69 ·
LokiYawl,
Thanks for the info on the hardin roll over.
I'm adding an aft rail to replace the lifelines and a boom gallows for the main and boom crutch for the mizzen right now. I have done the same as you in boring bigger holes for the bolts, filling them with epoxy and then drilling the holes for the bolts again. I haven't done all of them. Priorities lie with the ones that leak. As far as your chain plates go I think they are some sort of sideway E with a bar connecting them across above the port lights under the shrouds. So far I have been lucky to not find any cracks either.

Can you or anyone reading this tell me how to find out which hull number 1979 Hardin 44 Voyager I own?
 
#70 ·
LokiYawl,
Thanks for the info on the hardin roll over.
I'm adding an aft rail to replace the lifelines and a boom gallows for the main and boom crutch for the mizzen right now. I have done the same as you in boring bigger holes for the bolts, filling them with epoxy and then drilling the holes for the bolts again. I haven't done all of them. Priorities lie with the ones that leak. As far as your chain plates go I think they are some sort of sideway E with a bar connecting them across above the port lights under the shrouds. So far I have been lucky to not find any cracks either.

Can you or anyone reading this tell me how to find out which hull number 1979 Hardin 44 Voyager I own?
Hello again, where do you keep your boat? Great idea to add a boom crutch, I have considered that as well but I might be adding a hardtop so maybe a flip up style on the top, not sure yet.
Can you tell me what diameter standing rigging is on your boat? My boat was originally all 1/4" - 1x19 304 wire.

Best, James
 
#71 ·
LokiYawl James,
I think my rigging is 1/4" 1x19 wire except for the main which is 3/8" for the outer shrouds and fore and split aft stays. I don't know if it's 304 or not but I do have Swagelok fittings down low and crimped eyes up above. I'd like to have a hard dodger too but that will have to wait until later. I can get by with what I have until I go north again. We are currently in San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico on the dry but our home port is in Alaska. We have sailed the coast from the eastern Aleutians to the gold coast of Mexico so far. While we were in San Diego I built some lexan storm covers for our big windows but I may change the design as they are too cumbersome to put on and store, of course I can store them in place but they are not as pretty as the original design which is two layers of 1/4" glass with plastic in between. In Mexico we usually have the big windows covered because otherwise it gets too hot.

Regards, Barry, sv Scotch Mist II
 
#72 · (Edited)
Hi All , need some advise please , our Hardin 45 has a main sheet traveller winch branded Cathay Industrial SS 10 , we're looking at adding another winch to the port side.
Does anyone know of a supplier for these winches , failing that could someone suggest an alternative winch make and model?

Regards, James
Lady Kathleen
Langkawi Malaysia
 
#73 ·
OK, before I get beat up, I know Hardin's aren't sexy, they aren't fast, they can't manuever in close quarters, and there was only about 160 44 &45's made, but Hardin built a lot of plans out of Taiwan, including sea wolf, Vagabonds, and I think some of the Taiwan Petersons etc; the 44, 45, and anything else that he could contract to build, there's probably 1000's of Hardin built boats out there. So my question to why isn't there something under BUILDER'S ROW for all us guys that own Hardin built boats where we can share info and what little documentation what little we have on the history and experiences on this boat?

Anyone can go to a commercial builder's site for any of the clorex bottle boats, but how about us guys that have some craftsmanship and tradition built into the boats? Nothing -Nada - zip - zilch.

So....HUH? are we owners being slighted by fast, sexy and plastic? From the commercial point of view, we're old, and we spend a hella ofa lot of money on our boats to keep up the electronics, sails, rigging, lot's of varnish, and all kinds of other stuff.

So the question is, why is this venerable old boat being slighted on the largest sail boat info network in the world?

feeling slighted on the Pacific coast.
I know this is a fairly old post, but I just opened up a " Hardin 45 Owners" Facebook group for anyone who would like to join. I figure we can share knowledge etc.. We just closed recently on a great 1978. I'm excited to commence te work, but I know I have a lot to learn about these vessels!

Cheers!
 
#75 ·
Is there a current owners group on the web? I am looking at buying a Hardin 45 and I have a ton of questions. The one I am looking at has wooden spars. I am getting quotes around ~$35k for new spars and rigging delivered, but, not installed. Has anyone on here converted their spars to Aluminum? If so, I would love to chat about your experience and cost.

Thanks,

Shawn
 
#77 ·
Does anyone know where the hull identification number can be found on a Hardin 44/45? I have looked all over this boat and the plaque is missing, I was wondering if there is another place that the number may be, possibly marked during construction. There is very little information on this boat, the Dominican Matricular only says ''sail boat, 45 ft. white'', when I questioned the lack of information with the registration dept of the Dominican Navy I was told '''welcome to the Dominican Republic''.
from the shape of the bow and main cabin port light location at the top of the hull not in the cabin roof, I believe it is a 44 bounty 1978.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
#79 ·
Can anyone advise me where I can find the Hull Number on a Hardin 44/45, I have looked over the whole boat and can not see anything. there is very little information on this boat although I believe from the bow and location of the main cabin port lights it is a hardin 44 bounty cerca 1978.
Any help appreciated.
 
#80 ·
I am new to this thread, but have owned a 44'-10" Hardin for 28 years. On my boat there is a number topside starboard side high at stern. While built in Hardin yard, I am told this is an "Island Trader" number. Perhaps a search of Island Trader number locations might give a clue.

I am looking for info on deck construction due to leaks. I do not have teak decks. It could be the hawspipes.

Dick with "Timeless"
 
#82 ·
Dick,
Thanks.
I am aware of this normal location of the HIN, (12 letters and numbers), 'top starboard corner of transom' there is nothing there so I am looking for the hull/production number (3 or 5 numbers) that was burned into the wood frame in two locations during construction, there is no number in the primary location, on the engine compartment stringer so I am looking for anyone that knows the secondary location of this number on a Hardin 44 Bounty 1979.
Any ideas?
Leonela.
 
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