Calling All North American Spirit 23 Owners - Page 21 - SailNet Community
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post #201 of 235 Old 11-06-2011 Thread Starter
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windyway - Could you provide us with drawings or a pic of your alterations? I will need to do that on mine too. My cable is currently broken with the centerboard down.
The only pic I have is the one posted earlier in this thread. I used a wire coat hanger to get the correct angle of the pocket in the keel slot upper surface. then made a bracket that houses a pulley, then bolted & sealed it in. It's been 2 seasons now & the cable is still perfect. It's not tension that's the problem, it's the angle of the inner cable once it leaves the outer sheath and attached to the keel.
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post #202 of 235 Old 11-06-2011
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Windyway as you know I have zzZippety Doo Dah on the hard right now. The centerboard snapped right at the edge of the fixed portion of the keel :S. Built a new one which I will post on my site soon. Here is what the old one looked like Ben Lobaugh Online ZDD: Lucky sailing this summer

My centerboard cable was not actually broken. I looked at it Saturday to get an idea of what is going on and found that the cable broke off the centerboard when the centerboard snapped. The cable is fine. As a quick fix I am using some fuel line to act as the friction buffer from the keel. Eventually I will fix it properly with a pulley, but I think that when I do so I will cut open the indent in the top of the keel where the pulley goes and make the attachments there, then repair that hole. It will be a lot easier doing it that way than trying to hold everything up in the cavity to get it in place.

Pictures and notes will follow when she goes back into the water. Hope I can provide something you all can learn from
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post #203 of 235 Old 11-11-2011 Thread Starter
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I hope cutting a hole in the bottom of your boat with limited access to the lower surface works for you! I would be totally freaked out to do it that way. All I had to do was to drill 2 small holes for the bracket bolts on the back & top of the pulley mount. I installed it alone (no helper) with 3M 5200 sealant between the faying surface of the pulley mount & the top surface of the keel slot in the small pocket that's up there. Let us know for sure how it worked out.
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post #204 of 235 Old 11-11-2011
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The cable through the fuel hose seems to be working fairly well for friction. The fuel hose was epoxied into the previous hole for water tightness and stability.

The main issue left is where exactly on the centerboard the cable attaches. I think right near the bottom of the centerboard cavity. Any input on that?
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post #205 of 235 Old 11-11-2011 Thread Starter
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On Another Subject...

I've been having issues loading the Spirit 23 on the trailer at the boat ramp. I just recently found out why...

With the engine & battery on the starboard side of the boat, & me at the same side with the engine controls. The boat was leaning over. Hardly noticeable but due to the shoal keel being under water 2 ft while loading it was way over to the port side & not lining up with the trailer keel slot. A couple of times I pulled the boat up & it leaned over due to the keel being outside the slot on the trailer entirely! Recently I've just installed a 4 stroke Mercury 9.9 that is wayyy heavier than the 9.9 2 stroke that was on there, the problem would be much worse but... Here's the solution!

The engine weighs 125 Lbs. I mounted it a little bit closer to the center of the boat than the 2 stroke was. But here is the main thing. I had an Optima blue top deep cycle battery on the same starboard side, these suckers are 60 lbs ea! So my plan is to buy another one & mount them both on the port side. Since I moved the battery to the other side there is a difference of 120 lbs, and with another one added that brings it to 180 lbs difference from what it is now. I also turned the cockpit fuel compartment into an ice box that drains into the cockpit drains, & moved the 12 gal tank (now integral) to below the cockpit floor both for better C of G. and a larger easier to fill tank. Which should help as well.

Last edited by windyway; 11-11-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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post #206 of 235 Old 11-11-2011
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Nice call on the ice box and fuel tank! I may have to look into doing that myself.

When I pull my boat out I walk it up the dock with a bow and stern dock line. Works great so far. My motor is port with my batteries and fuel tank to starboard. 4 stroke 7.5 hp Honda

windyway have you tried the motor yet? What speeds to you get? I push at about 6.2 with mine
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post #207 of 235 Old 11-11-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blobaugh View Post
The cable through the fuel hose seems to be working fairly well for friction. The fuel hose was epoxied into the previous hole for water tightness and stability.

The main issue left is where exactly on the centerboard the cable attaches. I think right near the bottom of the centerboard cavity. Any input on that?
The cable attach point is a compromise in every sense. Too close to the top & you have no moment from the pivot point to raise the keel easily, too far from the top the cable comes out of the hull at too much of an angle. I think mine was about 1 ft below the pivot pin hole.
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post #208 of 235 Old 11-11-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Nice call on the ice box and fuel tank! I may have to look into doing that myself.

When I pull my boat out I walk it up the dock with a bow and stern dock line. Works great so far. My motor is port with my batteries and fuel tank to starboard. 4 stroke 7.5 hp Honda

windyway have you tried the motor yet? What speeds to you get? I push at about 6.2 with mine
The issue with an outboard is not max hull speed cause due to hull design, boats are rated at the max speed they can do, unless they can plane...our boats do not plane! LOL What the issue is concerns low speed controllability. The engine I mounted was a Mercury Bigfoot, which is lower geared & has a 20% larger prop. This will allow better response at lower speeds. Alas no I have not had it out yet the boat is on the hard for the winter.
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The cable attach point is a compromise in every sense. Too close to the top & you have no moment from the pivot point to raise the keel easily, too far from the top the cable comes out of the hull at too much of an angle. I think mine was about 1 ft below the pivot pin hole.
I put mine 1 foot below the pivot point as well. Nice that we coincide without talking! Certainly make me feel better about my hack job
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post #210 of 235 Old 11-11-2011 Thread Starter
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More Info About Aux Engines

I always thought that the transom was only designed for a maximum of a 10 horsepower motor. This information came from the operator's manual written before the 4 strokes came out. So I thought that the newer 4 stroke 9.9's would be too heavy for this boat...not so. As per Section I: OPERATION (page 8) there is a note that states: The auxiliary motor bracket available on some models is designed for up to 10 H.P. Do not use a larger motor.

I fabricated a much stronger motor bracket than what was available. So it's not the transom as the limiting factor, it's the bracket! (I was always wondering about the 10 H limit cause the transom is built like a tank like the rest of the boat!)
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