Golly . . . . I had to go back and reread every word I wrote to see where I was 'bashing' or attacking you personally. I sure don't see that, nor was it my intention
All I said about you personally was . . . . after 15 pages of discussion, you didn't understand the problem you were having, and your comments today pretty well prove that out - You still don't understand . . . . which is what inspired me to join your community to try one more time to explain things
The second or third reply you got was:
Originally Posted by Timrodabaugh
If you have the outboard incorrectly proped for the application and cant get to the peak power RPM how is that the manufactures fault again?
To which you replied:
Originally Posted by audeojude
It is propped to the lowest pitch prop made for the engine and it can't reach nominal rpms. Um... ok... lets see... yeah I do blame the manufacture.
Both the old engine and the tohatsu are rated at hp out at the prop. This is what Tohatsu USA told me even. So 4hp is more powerfull than 6hp now. I guess math is not a strong point for me.
Obviously (to me at least) a complete misunderstanding of the situation, so . . . . One more (well intentioned) try on my part
If you buy a $25K 300 HP outboard, it doesn't come with any propeller at all. Your dealer will research the boat you intend to put it on and come up with what he *thinks*
is likely the most correct
factory propeller for your intended application. The prop alone might cost you $1500 or more
You put the prop on your boat, take it out for sea trials and see what you have. It probably won't be perfect
but you will then have a much better idea of what you need, prop wise. The dealer may actually lend you a prop for this purpose so you're more likely to get something close to correct the first time around
Then, when you're knowledgeable enough to buy
a prop for your particular application
it still may not be the ideal prop for your boat, but it's the closest thing they make. You run it for a time, noting how it performs the way you use your boat - How you usually have it loaded . . . . fuel, passengers and such. How and where you use it . . . . offshore running in a sea of 18 inch chop, or up a river with very little chop. Maybe you like to run at certain speeds and want to 'tune' the boat/motor combination for best fuel economy
Anyway, after running it for a season or so, you probably should
take your $1500 prop to a prop shop, spend $300 or so and have the pitch readjusted to improve the performance of your boat. It will be money well spent. There are prop shops all over and this service is all they do
Even for $25K motors, the engine manufacturer only makes a limited number of different propellers and it's a good possibility that none of them will do exactly what you want/need on your personal boat. There are literally a thousand different boats the motor they sell could wind up powering - The manufacturer is totally helpless as to how you are going to use the motor they sell you . . . . and it's up to you and NOT them to 'make it right'
You understood NONE of this when you began this thread and it just amazed me that 1.) You began by bashing everyone and everything. You thought you were deceived. You thought the motor you bought was defective. You thought there was this big conspiracy by Tohatsu to sell motors rated at 6 HP which actually had less power than your old well worn 4 HP 2 stroke. You thought the government was in on the conspiracy. You blamed every single person up and down the line EXCEPT FOR the guy who bought the motor who didn't have any comprehension of what was actually happening
When you buy a small motor under 8 HP or so, no manufacturer sells a large selection of props to fit them, so it's not going to be easy tune the motor to your particular application . . . . but never mind, because you didn't even know that ANY motor needs to be tuned to work properly with any given boat . . . . and I'm still not sure you understand this today
Your motor would run 5500 to 6,000 RPM on a 6 foot dink and give you the rated 6 HP, just like it would also run 5500 to 6,000 RPM pushing a 30 foot ten ton steel barge . . . . if you had the proper prop on it for each application
With the factory prop, it wouldn't go above 5,000 RPM when you put it on the dingy. Have you put it on the dingy again now that you have the power pitched prop on the motor? It will do 6,000 RPM easily now pushing that dink. The prop you have now probably isn't 'right' for the dink either, because even though it will easily come up to max RPM (and give you it's rated 6 HP) it's now underpitched and can't get a good 'bite' on the water to make the dink go fast - The dink may go slower at 6,000 RPM using all of it's 6 HP than it used to go at 5,000 RPM where it as only making 5 HP
Neither of those props are 'right' for the intended use
Long story short - You cannot go out and buy ANY outboard which comes with a general purpose propeller and expect it to perform well on any given boat from 8 feet to 25 feet and weights from 150 pounds to 3,500 pounds. It's ridiculous to even expect that to be the case. It's also not very realistic to expect them to be able to sell you the exact correct propeller for every boat from 150 to 3500 pounds - That would require them to make 12 or 15 different props for ever motor they sell
Your old 4 HP worked well because it happened to be pretty closely matched to your sailboat. Did the motor come that way right out of the box . . . . or was the previous owner of your boat and motor experienced enough to know how to match them together? If your old 4 HP motor was bought online without any advice from anyone and worked as well as it does when that guy clamped it on the stern and fired it up without making any prop changes, then he got extremely lucky
is all I can say - THAT was a one in a million shot. He should have gone to the casino that very day
Then, along came you - You bought a boat/motor which were properly matched, worked well and you decided to make a change. You went on-line with zero knowledge or experience and bought something that you thought should be quieter, smoother, more fuel efficient and push your boat more easily to hull speed with less throttle applied . . . . and you didn't get so lucky - Your motor didn't match up well with your boat (or even the dink) straight out of the box . . . . and you were disappointed . . . . and admittedly 'hot under the collar'
It was 100% because you didn't know what you were doing
I realize you don't use the boat any longer, so none of this really matters to you, but you are STILL of the opinion that your 6 HP Tohatsu isn't a good motor . . . . not only not for you, but not for anybody who wants to use it as a sailboat auxiliary and that's a real shame. You lack of understanding of how you mate a boat and a motor together is giving the folks who made the motor a bad name because you still imply that it's not a good product
No - I have no affiliation with Tohatsu at all, though I do have a Tohatsu 6 HP on my rigid dink. It' a small fiberglass dink and the motor is really a bit too much for it . . . . I have to be really careful not to overdo things, but when I open it up in a straight line on calm water, it will FLY!! It is amazing that they can get so much power into a 55 pound package and yet make it run all day on a 3 gallon tank of fuel. Truthfully, it is more a dink motor than a sailboat auxiliary *because* the gearing in the foot is too high (2.15:1). It's designed to turn a small propeller fast, whereas good workboat outboards turn a larger propeller slowly and that's more efficient on any boat which cannot plane.
If you were still using this boat/motor, I would advise you to take the prop in and have about half an inch of pitch taken out of it. This would give you a few more RPM's and a bit more power, since you would then be running it closer to the powerband of the engine and your performance would be improved all around
understand that any outboard on any vessel which is RPM limited because the prop is so overpitched that the engine can not reach it's rated RPM is never going to perform very well . . . . and it's sure not the fault of the company who made the motor, the dealer who sold it, the government who mandates how we measure horsepower - It's just not a good match for the boat it's on and the buyer needs to understand that and take steps to correct it . . . . not just go online and bitch about it