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Bilge improvment

4K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  BirdBrain333 
#1 · (Edited)
Well three weeks ago I took the plunge. I am now the proud owner of a 1981 PSC 37'. From what I can decipher from the hull number she is number 104 or the fourth hull built by Pacific Seacraft. Much of what is on her is original so after an enjoyable four day trip I started digging. First on my list is the fuel tank. I pulled the tank to find it in surprisingly good condition. Under the tank I found a muddy, oily, watery mess. Being an older boat my bilge design maybe different but what I have are a front bilge, mid bilge where tank is located and a rear bilge. The front and rear I will be able to clean whenever I want but the mid bilge will require removing the tank. I started thinking :eek: and decided that I would like to glass in a tube under the tank between the keel bolts connecting the front and rear bilges. In doing so I will keep the inaccessable bilge clean from anchor water and mud from the front and engine residues from the rear. In the case that I ever had a tank failure, it would be contained in the mid bilge where there is nothing for it to mix and contaminate with for easier clean up. It will also keep my tank from sitting in water greatly reducing corrosion of the tank. My question is does anyone see any reason, safety or other why I shouldn't do this?
Thanks, -Scupp
 
#2 ·
Would that bilge have a pump to evacuate a leak? If so, I see no problem offhand.

However, your issue is pretty common. We must have dozens of square feet of bilge we can't get to. We just shut off the pump, pour in a bottle of bilge cleaner, fill with a few inches of water and go sailing to slosh it around. Works okay.
 
#6 ·
I have pulled the fuel tank a few times on Crazy Fish.

I have pulled it to
> clean the bilge
> check for the bottom of the fuel tank for holes
> replace the fuel tank which had a couple of small holes
> access/clean up the wire under the floor on the port side
> access/replace the fresh water hose under the floor on the starboard side.

The boat as delivered from the factory had a submersabile bilge pump forward about a foot aft of the mast compression post and a manual bilge pump in the cockpit with a hose that leads to a point just forward of the access hatch that the ladder sits on top of.

Since Crazy Fish sits a bit off of her lines with the stern sitting lower then the bow, bilge water tends to collect a bit aft of the submersabile bilge pump. One solution seems to be to limit the amount of water entering from anywhere.

A second solution I am working on but have yet to install:
A Jabsco Diaphram Bilge Pump or similiar located in the space beneath the galley trash can with a hose running to the same point where the manual bilge pump runs. This would limit bilge water to the deepest area of the bilge and normally keep the bottom of the fuel tank dry.

It will get done at some point but first I need to:
Install Newmar terminal strip in area adjacent to the mast compression post behind the three drawer cabinet. Will land the new mast wiring here. From the factory the wires were terminated at the base of the mast. The new solution seems better.
Finish the NMEA 2000 cabling to add the new B&G Triton wind instrument at the top of the mast.
Re-connect the WH below decks autopilot to the rudder post after replacing the wheel with tiller steering.
Replace the top of the new lopolight anchor light with lopolight plate that includes a mount for a windex and install windex.
Take the boat out sailing.

Marc Hall
Crazy Fish - Maintaining, Upgrading and Sailing a Crealock 37
 
#7 ·
Scupp,
The previous owners of Indigo installed a secondary bilge pump similar to what you are thinking. It consists of a Jabsco pump with a small diameter clear hose led under the fuel tank, a small strainer, and a simple on/off switch. It works great and has kept our bilge dry as a bone under the tank (we just pulled the tank a couple of months ago). I also threw an absorbent towel (like a sham-wow) in the bilge which catches most of the drips before they can run under the tank. When i suspect water in the bilge I flip the switch and let the jabsco pump out the water. The clear hose makes it easy to see when all of the water is expelled. Highly recommended.
 
#9 ·
I have a PSC 34 (scheel keel) so I think the shape of my fuel tank is different.

However, the previous owner had epoxied a PVC pipe between the keel bolts to keep the tank away from them. The aft most region, had no PVC (space too tight?) and when I pulled my tank two days ago, I found two corrosion pits. There was obvious electrolysis on the aft bolts.

I've had the spots repaired and new aluminium welded over the entire aft portion to about 1" above the waterline evident on the fuel tank.

I'll then paint the entire tank bottom again.

Obviously, some bilge water collects in the aft section. I must keep the central bilge dry as possible to prevent that.

My question to all of you is whether there is logic in me epoxying over the keel bolts. Seems to me if I ever need access to them, I can (with difficulty) remove the epoxy. However, wouldn't this stop the two metals from reacting?

Bob Steneck
Alaria PSC 34
Christmas Cove, Maine
 
#11 ·
Jay,
It is mounted under the floor just forward of the bilge access floor board, and aft of the fuel tank bilge bulkhead. It is mounted as a unit (pump and strainer) on a board and then bolted upside down in the bilge, if that makes sense. You can't really see it unless you stick your head down in the hole, but because it is removable you can drop it down to empty the strainer, mess with the fittings, etc.
The hose is tee'd into one of the drain thru-hull hoses on the port side. I forget exactly which one.
I'll take a picture of the setup next time I'm at the boat, if I don't get sidetracked.
 
#12 ·
My question to all of you is whether there is logic in me epoxying over the keel bolts. Seems to me if I ever need access to them, I can (with difficulty) remove the epoxy. However, wouldn't this stop the two metals from reacting?
I used zinc chromate on my planes on the carrier, and on battery terminals on electric wheelchairs. A good paint & body or auto supply should carry the spray cans. Try not to breathe it. Forms a good airtight seal, but *way* easier than epoxy to unbolt through.
 
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