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  #11  
Old 08-01-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

I just replaced mine this spring. It was far easier than I anticipated and I did them alone. I used a lot of short 2X4 blocks and one long 4X4 for a leaver. By putting the 4X4 leaver under the front end of the engine and blocking appropriately, I was able to sit on it and lift the engine enough to easily replace both front mounts. For the rear mounts, I ran the 4X4 across the seats, tied a rope from the center of it to the the coupling on the rear of the transmission. Then by lifting the ends and putting 2X4 blocks under the ends of the 4X4, the engine was raised and the mounts easily replaced.

Don't forget to uncouple the shaft first.

Tips: ( that I learned too late)
1. before starting, mark the outline of the base of the mount with a sharpie. Positioning the new ones will then be a breeze.

2. Don't move the bottom nut on the mount. Then when you get the old ones out, you can easily set them side by side with the new ones and adjust the height of the new ones before installing them.

3. Make damn sure you have exactly the right mounts before starting. Check the stud diameter and length to make sure they are the same--and of course, the numbers.
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

John,
Thanks for sharing. I am very grateful to all the skippers who have contributed to this thread. Meanwhile I have received the mounts from the Yanmar dealer. They look ok. Next week I am going to install them applying all the good stuff I have learned from you and the gang.
Wolfgang

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Old 08-05-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

We did this for Kenlanu two years ago.

Getting the nuts and bolts loosened was a MAJOR headache, involving the biggest Makita impact wrench I've ever seen! To lift the engine we put a strap around the boom, put the main halyard around the boom right next to the strap, and lifted with a come-along. Lifting the engine was blissfully easy as was the rest of the re-installing. Best of all Kenlanu purred like a new boat!

Jay
SV Kenlanu
Buck's Harbor, ME
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Here is a summary of the engine mounts replacement on SV Yankee:

On Brian’s (SV Indigo) advice, I measured the actual position of all four engine brackets in horizontal and vertical direction and marked the footprint of each engine mount on the stringers. I wrote the required height of the supporting nut on each new mount after I marked them with port/starboard and front/aft. That saved me tons of time for the alignment after the new mounts were installed.
I also identified the two lifting lugs. The forward lug is a bit to port, located adjacent to the motor oil filling cap, the aft lug is more to starboard near the air intake.
First I disconnected the coupling bolts and took off the four nuts on the engine brackets. Since the shaft seal is a PSS type, the rubber bellow acts like a spring pushing the coupling tight against the engine. I moved the PSS rotor on the shaft about ¾” toward the engine to release the tension. Then I separated the coupling halves and put a ½” wooden board between the faces of the coupling. That way the coupling could slide on the wood when the engine was lifted up.
Next I tackled the forward mounts because they are in easy reach from the cabin. All screws came loose without any problem. For lifting, I attached a shackle (biner) to the forward lug and connected it with a web string to a 2x6. The 2x6 was set across the cockpit and was supported on the cockpit seats. (Biner and websling are part of my mast climbing gear and the 2x6 is used as jerry can board). Then I pushed up the 2x6 with a pry bar alternating between port and starboard side. As elevation was gained, I put shims under the 2x6 to secure level. By lifting the engine up this way, I could take the old mounts out and slide the new mounts in aligning them to the marks. The alignment nuts of the new front mounts were preset to the noted elevation. I re-installed the screws and lowered the engine.
The more difficult part was to hoist the aft of the engine. The lifting lug is offset to starboard. Lifting the engine using the described method, left the port side of the engine sagging. I also had to unscrew the raw water filter, the muffler, and part of the raw water hose so that these parts could tolerate the lifting movement. I rigged another websling to the aft port engine bracket and used a 2x4 to bring it up. I could take out the old mounts and put in the new mounts. The new aft mounts were preset to the noted level. A good marking of the old mounts’ food print saved time with horizontal alignment.
After the engine was lowered down on the new mounts, I took control measurements of the engine brackets to calculate what alignment would be needed. I moved the engine vertically by using the adjustment nuts and horizontally with a 2x4 until I was in the range of the previous measurement. Then I removed the board between the coupling halves and got the coupling back in place. I had to tensioning the PSS at the same time to avoid water coming in. The new mounts were preset pretty good. I could center the coupling halves with hub and bore immediately. There was only a vertical alignment necessary.
Since I work faster with the metric system, the alignment calculation is done in metric. I measured a gap of 0.35 mm at top of the coupling. Zero gap at the bottom. The diameter of the coupling is 100 mm. The distance of the engine mount is 412 mm. The thread pitch on the bolt of the engine mount is 1.5 mm. Applied all this, a full turn of the engine mount alignment nut corrects the coupling gap by 0.36 mm. So I did, using the front mounts of the engine. After the alignment I could not get a 0.1 mm feeler gauge in anywhere.
Next I mounted the washers and nuts on the engine brackets. When torque is applied to these nuts the mounts can twist easily. I hold the fixed nut at the top of the u-shaped mount with a 24 mm wrench to offset the twisting force. Finally I checked the coupling gap once more and installed the four coupling bolts.
Manpower: 1 person
Tools: Short 24 mm wrench, 24 mm bit, 14 mm bit, extension, ratchet, feeler gauge, screw drivers, Allen wrenches for PSS and split collar, wrenches for coupling bolts, 15” pry bar.
Auxiliaries: 2x6 spruce, 2x4 spruce, wood shims ½”, 1”, 2”x4”, 2”x6”, 4’ web slings, shackle, split collar for 1” shaft to work PSS rotor.
Purchase: 2 engine mounts #100, 2 engine mounts #150. Genuine Yanmar. Total cost: $550.
Wolfgang
SV YANKEE PSC34 #274
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Old 08-27-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Wolfgang,
Nicely done. Glad the measuring trick worked, but doing the job yourself must have still been a good workout - going from scrunched down in the engine room to measure the alignment to climbing out and over and down into the boat to make a small adjustment, and repeat a few dozen times more.

Out of curiosity, did you happen to look at the old mounts. Yanmar specs say #100s on one side and #150s on the other, which is what I replaced mine with. However, I discovered that the old ones were #200s one three legs with a #150 on the last one. I'm not sure if they were original or had been replaced by a previous owner. I tried to think of a rational reason for doing it that way, but it defies logic. I'm guessing that whoever installed them just used what was laying around at the time.
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Brian,
I believe I removed the originally installed mounts. The engine has run only 600 hours. I could still read the 100 on the starboard and 150 on the port mounts. The front mounts were very rusty. I don't see a good reason to come up with 3 x 200 and 1 x 150 setup other than jerry rigging.
Wolfgang
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Old 08-27-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

WARNING!: REPLACE THE SET SCREWS ON YOUR PSS SHAFT SEAL ROTOR!! Do not re-use the set screws.

The set screws are meant to be used only once. If you re-use the same screws, the rotor will loosen, and your bilge pump will likely get a workout.
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

A Canadian yacht had to be abandoned and the skipper rescued off the Great Barrier reef last year, when his Yanmar mounts all broke, and his loose engine bashed a hole in his hull. I have heard other stories about Yanmars breaking loose from all their mounts simultaneously, leaving the engine rolling dangerously in the bilge. They have nothing but rubber holding your engine in. You would be wiser to go for Perko mounts, which are not dependent on rubber alone for holding your engine in. If you have new Yanmar mounts, a bit of chain to stop your engine from breaking loose completely would be a good safety factor.
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Old 08-27-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
WARNING!: REPLACE THE SET SCREWS ON YOUR PSS SHAFT SEAL ROTOR!! Do not re-use the set screws.

The set screws are meant to be used only once. If you re-use the same screws, the rotor will loosen, and your bilge pump will likely get a workout.
Thanks for the warning. Well taken. I used new set screws. But I do not trust them anyway. Therefore I secure the rotor additionally with a Two-Piece Clamp-On Shaft Collar placed directly against the rotor.
McMaster-Carr#6436K38.
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Belt and suspenders, eh?

Me too
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