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  #1  
Old 07-27-2013
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Replacing engine mounts

The engine on YANKEE is a Yanmar 3JH2e. I want to replace the four engine mounts and will order two #100 and two #150 mounts from the Yanmar dealer. The bolting looks straight forward. I am not so sure about how to lift the engine. I assume I have to hoist the engine about two inches to free the installed mounts and to push the new mounts in. Has anyone done this? Any advice? I do not see any lifting lugs on the engine.
Thank you.
Wolfgang
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Old 07-28-2013
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I don't know if it would work for you situation, but have used a car jack and 2x4 when I replaced the enigine isolators/bushings on my old Westerbeast.
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Old 07-28-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

I just replaced mine earlier this summer and used a combination of 2x4s and a cheap chain fall that I found at Harbor Freight. However, before I started lifting anything I carefully measured the height of each mount with a caliper so that I could get it back close to alignment afterwards. I had to take the measurement differently for each mount due to the clearance for the caliper, so I made pen marks on the struts and engine beds to get the caliper in the same exact spot later and also took photos with my phone for each one. The pictures helped out immensely because it was hard to remember exactly how I held the caliper or what I was measuring from in the first place. This part worked out better than I had expected and after changing out all the mounts and returning them to the previous measurements my engine was almost perfectly aligned. (In the second attached picture you can see the pen marks on the mount and engine bed in an effort to return the caliper to the exact same spot later.)

As for raising the engine I slowly raised the engine to within half an inch of the top of each mount bolt by turning the bottom nut on each mount. Don't forget to disconnect the driveshaft! Then with the help of one other person, I had them leverage the front of the engine up with a 4 foot 2x4. Because the engine was raised first with the mounts, you only need to raise the engine an inch to swap mounts. I left the rear top nuts loosely on the mounts so that the engine would pivot off the rear mounts and not lift off of them by mistake. For the rear mounts I used a small chain fall attached to the engine lifting point. I used a 4 foot 4x4 spanning across the cockpit seats to attach the chain fall. The chain fall worked well and had a reverse feature to slowly lower it back down when done. While swapping mounts I put a couple of small 2x4 pieces under the oil pan to keep the engine from falling if the chain fall failed. Afterwards when lowering the engine I couldn't understand why the engine would not go all the way down on the mounts - as it turned out I forgot to remove the 2x4s.

I also learned that a standard length box wrench wrench was a bit long to adjust the rear mounts and was barely able to turn the nut. So I bought another wrench and chopped it in half on the chop saw. This stubby wrench worked much better and allowed for much more room to work.

Hope that helps,
Brian
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Replacing engine mounts-caliper.jpg   Replacing engine mounts-caliper-2.jpg  
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Old 07-28-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Brian,
Thanks for sharing your experience. It will help me tremendously. I was looking for lifting lugs and couldn't identify any. I will look for the lifting point again.
I enjoyed your website which was mentioned in the water heater removing post. In that post I noticed that you modified the control board. I would be very interested how that was done because YANKEE's has started falling apart.
Fair winds.
Wolfgang
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Old 07-28-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Wolfgang,
The lifting point is a smallish metal loop, for lack of a better description, on top of the engine.

As for the engine panel, we should have our website updated in the next day or so with more detail. In short, I made a new external panel using starboard, and made a wood box for an internal panel mounted just inside the companionway. The inside panel now houses the start switch and horn and is easy to use out in the cockpit. I had to splice and lengthen those wires but otherwise pretty straight forward.

-B
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Old 07-28-2013
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Replacing engine mounts

Good tips, need to replace mine too. Mounts are not cheap.....
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Old 07-29-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

I went to a bone yard, and bought the best looking Honda Civic scissors jack that I could find for $10. The jack folds down to about 1˝" and can raise to over 8".

I was able to slip this in between the motor mount, and the hull with a ˝" piece of plywood under the jack to spread the load.

I then removed the top nut on the motor mount, and the two bolts that held the bottom of the mount to the FRP stringers that hold the engine mounts in place. On many boats, these are lag screws, but on my boat, the etringers are hollow, and the mounts were through bolted.

After the mount was removed, I set the new mount to the same height as the old, and installed them.

Worked great.
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Old 07-29-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

We replaced our mounts in much the same way as Brian did. It was much easier than we had imagined (feared). We used a 2 x 4 to lever the engine up to replace the front mounts. Our method for lifting the rear of the engine was not as sophisticated as Brian's. We used a 2 x 4 and a piece of rope! One end of the 2 x 4 was short on one side of the rope fall and long on the other, making a lever and giving me some mechanical advantage. I lifted one end of the 2 x 4 while Rhonda slid in each mount. Only took a few seconds each.

Dave
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Old 07-29-2013
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

I hired YES Yacht Services in Kemah, Texas to replace one of my mounts. They sent out a tech who decided replacing it was just too hard, so he left without doing anything as far as I could see. They then billed me for the part and two hours of labor. $350 total as I recall.

I recommend doing your own

I also recommend not working with YES.
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Re: Replacing engine mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by RainDog View Post
I hired YES Yacht Services in Kemah, Texas to replace one of my mounts. They sent out a tech who decided replacing it was just too hard, so he left without doing anything as far as I could see. They then billed me for the part and two hours of labor. $350 total as I recall.

I recommend doing your own

I also recommend not working with YES.
YES = NO
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