Rebedding - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-26-2013 Thread Starter
ktm
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Rebedding

Hello All:

At what age PSC does re beading start to become an issue. How hard is it to re bed the chain plates and deck fittings? I am sure there would be an issue with the head liner and access to the inside bolts for the chain plates. Thanks.

Ken
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-26-2013
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re: Rebedding

Depends on environmental conditions - up north - tropics ? Type of existing bedding compound (at least a dozen different compounds). Depends on type of chainplates .... another dozen or so methods of securement. Not really enough information for an informed response.

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post #3 of 9 Old 10-26-2013
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re: Rebedding

Re beding of the chain plates and deck fittings is a generic. Has anyone re beded the chain plates and deck fittings and what was the level of complexity as far as access.
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post #4 of 9 Old 10-26-2013
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re: Rebedding

My PSC is a 1994 model. It is only used seasonally in Maine and covered in the winter. I had the chain plates removed, inspected, polished and rebedded last year(2012). There is a bit of interior trim removal to get at the bolts. 2 of the chain plate bolts were slightly cracked on the head of the bolt. We replaced all the bolts and standing rigging. The plates were fine and there were no leaks. I have not done any deck rebedding yet and have have no leaks or leak history.

Al Pickering
PSC 34 #286
Coorie Doon
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post #5 of 9 Old 10-27-2013
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re: Rebedding

Our 94' model developed a leak around the forward overhead hatch about a year ago. So far, no other leaks that I have seen.

As far as access goes for deck hardware, most of it is not easily accessible. Stuff near the center line of the boat will be easier because you can unzip the headliner and reach in to get to it. However, PSC stapled a thin foam insulation layer directly to the underside of the deck, requiring you to cut holes in it to access the bolt heads.

Hardware near the outer edges of the deck are inaccessible without at least partially removing the headliner. The handrails inside the cabin (and the dorade rings) block access to the bolts for the topside handrails. We just recently installed mast pulpits on Indigo and the inboard feet were easy to access (except in the head). I was able to unzip the headliner and work my hand in to add backing plates and tighten the bolts. The outboard feet access was another matter entirely. In order to get a backing plate and wrench there, I had to pull the staples on the outboard edge of the headliner. I haven't yet tried to reinstall the headliner but suspect it will not be easy.

Brian & Marya
S/V Indigo
Pacific Seacraft 34
Hull #281

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post #6 of 9 Old 10-27-2013
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re: Rebedding

Quote:
Originally Posted by ktm View Post
How hard is it to re bed the chain plates
Replacing the chain plates on 20 yo boats is pretty common. I have two friends who did it recently, one did it himself, the other professionally. IIRC Professional job was $3000 total. DIY job was about 3 hours per chain plate as I recall. The guy who did it lurks on this forum and might jump in to give more details.

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post #7 of 9 Old 10-28-2013
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Re: Rebedding

On my 1982 C37 I rebedded all of the foredeck hardware over a period of several years.None was easy but no boat that I know of is easy.I did not do the rebedding because of leaks but because I thought I should do it.The only leak I ever had was a dorade leaking under the mushroom.I cant imagine pulling the chainplates just to rebed them as it requires serious wood removal in the salon.The factory used a generous amount of 5200 on all the hardware that I have removed and none came off easily.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-11-2015
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Re: Rebedding

Hi Ken,

The chainplates on my 1987 PSC34 have been replaced/rebedded in the relatively recent past. I'm in the process of removing, cleaning, potting all drill holes with epoxy, redrilling and rebedding the deck hardware. I've had no leaking issues, just think it's prudent with a boat of this vintage.. Currently I've removed the large cleats in the bow, the windlass and the bronze guides for the anchor chain/rode. Also I've removed a couple of attachment sites for the bow pulpit. They all came off pretty easily - seem to be bedded with silicone. The staysail attachment site I believe is bedded with 5200 - no luck getting that off without using anti-bond, and I'm not brave enough for that at this juncture. (doubt I'll get to that this season). Hope that helps.
Nate

Athenry, 1987 PSC34, #89
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-11-2015
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Re: Rebedding

81, 37'
I replaced mine after noticing a hairline crack in one. 2 day job, one to remove, one to install. I'll try to hit the high points because it's been a few years.

Purchased them from stainless shop in CA. It was between ownership of PSC and the original stainless manufacturer made up all the plates at a great value. Note, I did not replace the bow roller. If you can drop or steady the rig, remove the plates and either make a template of each one or send the old ones so the holes and top angle are an exact match. It's obviously important.

I had to remove two of the interior slats on port and starbard to access the nuts. Harder to refinish than remove.

After untensioning the rig, the bolt was easy to knock out. I carefully heated the plate with a heat gun and re-applied tension via the turnbuckle.....most plates slide right out. A few needed encouragement. I've found that 5200 becomes less like concrete when it approaches the temperature of coffee..

Clean the area and then replace the plate with 5200 bedding by using a rubber or plastic mallet to gently tap back into place (through the cosmetic rub rail)

Insert bolts, nuts and lock washers (buy new ones....they aren't cheap but why go to all the trouble and have a cracked bolt later on) Just like the plates, make sure they are the exact same size etc.

Tighten gently without squezing all the 5200 out, then finish tightening after the 5200 cures. Tension rig and inspect the bolts a few times to make sure they remain tight. I didn't use a torque wrench but it's probably a good idea to ask Thumper how tight and use the t-wrench.

It's not a complicated job but get a qualified rigger to inspect your work. It's not an area you want to make a mistake.

Hope it helps.
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