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post #11 of 14 Old 01-14-2014
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Re: Galvanic Isolator

Recently (3 weeks ago) installed a galvanic isolator on Crazy Fish.

Mounted it outboard on the rear quarterberth bulkhead a short run from the AC plug. Probably above the level of the original headliner but the quarterberth headliner was removed many years ago and never reinstalled.

One of the simpliest installations of devices on the boat.

Marc Hall
Crazy Fish - Maintaining, Upgrading and Sailing a Crealock 37
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-15-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: Galvanic Isolator

Marc,

Thanks, I ended up putting the Galvanic Isolator in the wet locker aft of the head mounted just below the new charger. With Thumper's help from Pacific Seacraft I found access to the shore power cable very close to the inlet.

Next challenge is to link the AC ground to the DC ground.

John
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-15-2014
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Re: Galvanic Isolator

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmjr View Post
Marc,

Thanks, I ended up putting the Galvanic Isolator in the wet locker aft of the head mounted just below the new charger. With Thumper's help from Pacific Seacraft I found access to the shore power cable very close to the inlet.

Next challenge is to link the AC ground to the DC ground.

John
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Just check continuity behind the panel. Put one lead to AC ground and the other to the DC bus... Most boats built in the last 20-30 years are wired with the AC/DC bond, though a few brands were not....

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post #14 of 14 Old 01-16-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: Galvanic Isolator

"Just check continuity behind the panel. Put one lead to AC ground and the other to the DC bus... "

I checked for continuity from AC ground to DC bus behind the panel. No joy.

Here is my plan:
1. temporary fix - Connect a 10awg green wire from ac ground at panel to dc bus at panel 12 inches away.

2. March to the future - Having read every post about ground(ing) on every site plus every compass marine diagram and picture plus Calder I intend to clean up the battery area by installing positive and negative bus bars with one of them becoming the new dc negative bar and a second bar (connected to that one) to terminate the non-conducting grounding wires and then on to engine ground. No fuses now at battery so that project happens at the same time.

Here is what is stopping me:

A) The all neg to one place law.

There are now two negative wires going to the engine (three if you count the alternator which is a 2G wire from alternator to battery 1 negative post.)

1) One 4G wire from bat 1 to bolt where transmission bolts to engine.
2) One 4G wire from DC neg at panel to second bolt where transmission bolts to engine. These bolts are 4 inches apart. The DC neg wire would be brutally difficult to re-run to the proposed new neg bus bar in battery compartment.

Are two bolts four inches apart on the engine one place or two?

Sorry for the consulting fee worthy length but this stuff has a lot of pitfalls.

John
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