Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Home Port: Rock Hall, MD
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The answer to your question may depend on when your PSC-40 was built. I think there have been some variations in the head plumbing over the years. While I have not tackled this particular job, there was a thread about it a year or two ago, and Bob Cross on S/V Fugue (I'm not sure of the hull #) posted a very thorough description for not just replacing the hoses, but relocating them so as to use much less hose and relocating the "drain" fitting on the holding tank so that pumping it out with the macerator actually drained the tank instead of leaving several inches in the bottom.
I still have a copy of Bob's description, with photos, that I can forward to you off list if you so desire; just send me an e-mail with your address. Or, if Bob is out there, he may want to weigh in on this.
In the meantime, here is his description of how to gain access to the tank and hoses without removing the countertop. It's quoted from his previous post, so all thanks here go to him...I'm just a conduit.
- Remove ‘furniture’ (access doors, drawer, and pull down door)
The factory installed the furniture in our boat by inserting wood screws through the inside face of the furniture frame such that the screws go ‘end on’ into the supporting bulkhead cutout. When you open the doors and remove the drawer, you’ll gain access to the countersunk screws. Back them out and the furniture comes right out in one piece. Caution – if your cutout is larger than the furniture frame, there will be a gap between the frame and the cutout. Where there is a gap, the factory used longer screws to bridge the gap and bite into the bulkhead. Check for this, because when you reinstall the furniture, you need to use the same length screw that came out originally. Also, don’t try to tighten the screws down to remove the gap, as that will distort the frame. You must leave the same gap in reinstallation you saw when removing.
- Remove sink
Yep, the sink has to come out. Close the drain seacock and remove the drain hose. Mounting nuts can be reached from underneath. Remove them and their brackets using a ratchet wrench with extender. I don’t remember the nut size – yours may be different, anyway. Break the seal using a flexible putty knife. I use a 1.5” wide blade Red Devil. Be patient and don’t hammer; use hand pressure and work the blade around the seal between the counter top and sink. It can be done! Remove the sink from below (ours is an undercounter mount).
- Remove tank
Flush tank until you’re willing to risk what will spill out when you wrestle it out. Close seacocks and remove hoses. I had to cut off the fittings on the tank with a sawzall because I could not reach the hose clamps, much less loosen them and then muscle the hoses off. Rotozip might work, also. Once all the connections are off, the tank can be removed by pulling it forward under the sink location and then out. At least ours did.
PSC 40 -- #46