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  #1  
Old 04-13-2009
Mondofromredondo
 
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Water spots between double pane port lights

Hello all,
I'm posting this for my freind who has his 1990 PSC 34 slipped next to mine.
In 1990 PSC apparently made an improvement to the port lights. This was a change that included new frames that drained properly to the outside of the boat instead of pooling up water to be dumped interior to the boat upon opening of a port light. Long story short. The new portlights use double pane glass which have all develeoped thick waterspots in between the panes. This really looks terrible from inside as well as outside. Anyone know of a fix? Or the name of the company that builds these that can perhaps replace the glass? It doesn't look like an easy item to simply pop out and pop a new one in. May have to have these cut very closely to the proper dimension. Thanks for any help.

Keith
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Old 04-13-2009
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Keith,

That problem was more common with the older oval portlights. This is the first instance where I've heard this problem arising on the newer design. While the newer design theoretically should be less prone to this problem, it's possible we'll begin to see issues with them as they get further along in age.


The rectangular portlights came from Chatfield Engineering in Aukland, NZ. Your dockmate might contact them about replacement lenses.

Otherwise a local glass shop might be his best bet. I would recommend polycarbonate or acrylic instead of laminated safety glass.
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Last edited by JohnRPollard; 04-13-2009 at 03:48 PM. Reason: fix link
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Old 04-13-2009
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John,
Currently waiting on Thumper from PSC as he may have a source.

I have the older Oval shaped portlights on my 1988 PSC 34.
I understand the change to the new style occured in 1990. Not sure if the double pane was used in all models because of problems.

What would be the rationale for using Polycarb or acrylic over safety glass?

Keith
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Old 04-13-2009
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Originally Posted by mondofromredondo View Post
John,
Currently waiting on Thumper from PSC as he may have a source.

I have the older Oval shaped portlights on my 1988 PSC 34.
I understand the change to the new style occured in 1990. Not sure if the double pane was used in all models because of problems.

What would be the rationale for using Polycarb or acrylic over safety glass?

Keith
Keith the rectangular PSC/Chatfield portlights came into use in the late 1980's. I've seen 1989 models that were built in '88 with the rectangulars. There was a short period where owners could opt for the old oval portlights instead of the new ones. So you will come across '89 boats with the ovals. But I think the majority of '89s were rectangular.

My suggestion to use polycarbonate (Lexan) or acrylic for lens replacement rather than the safety glass is based on my own experiences. Because of their design, the laminated glass in the older oval portlights was especially prone to wicking moisture between the layers when the lens bedding deteriorated-- which results in the foggy/cloudy lens syndrome.

Also, I had an oval lens spider-web on me when a large portlight accidentally slammed shut. I wanted to eliminate the possibility of this happenning again.

So when I rebuilt the oval portlights on our previous Dana 24, I decided not to replace with safety glass. I went with a single, thicker lens made of acrylic. Polycarbonate is stronger, but more susceptible to UV damage. I reasoned that the acrylic was adequately strong for the size of the relatively small portlight lenses, and would last longer than polycarbonate (which would eventually craze from UV exposure).
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Old 04-14-2009
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If you don't want to go the acrylic or polycarb route, laminated saftey glass will work just fine.

As John mentioned, the fogging is likely caused by moisture wicking between the two layers of glass and delaminating the pane. I think MaineSail mentioned it, but I read somewhere that polysulphide sealants actually assist in this process by breaking down the bond between tha panes.

So, an ounce of prevention has been my approach. I have replaced/am replacing all six of my oval portlight panes (same problem), and I'm sealing the edges with two coats of unthickened epoxy. I taped the glass to prevent getting epoxy on the front/rear of the panes, using 3M 2090 painters tape.

Hope this helps,
PF
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Old 04-15-2009
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Laminated glass

PF,
Thanks for the input. Am looking at all the options but safety glass is my preference as I have a local glass shop that claims they can cut the glass to the same dimensions. Not sure about the installation of the glass yet but your idea for sealing the edges makes very good sense.

Thanks
Keith
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Old 04-15-2009
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Originally Posted by mondofromredondo View Post
PF,
Thanks for the input. Am looking at all the options but safety glass is my preference as I have a local glass shop that claims they can cut the glass to the same dimensions. Not sure about the installation of the glass yet but your idea for sealing the edges makes very good sense.

Thanks
Keith
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Keith,

Just FYI, your local glass shop should be able to cut whatever material you choose - safety glass, acrylic, polycarbonate. I got our replacement acrylic lenses from the local shop.

Do your research on how to bed the lenses. The bronze in our portlights reacts with certain acidic bedding compounds. I used a non-acidic silicone, which was not easy to find. You may come up with a better solution.
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Old 04-15-2009
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John,
Thanks for the info on the bedding compound. I never would have thought about that. Definetly gonna find a non acidic silicone to bed the lens with.

Keith
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Old 09-30-2009
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We replaced the glass in our 87 crealock with Lexan, strong, and will degrade with sun. But so will all plastics.
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Old 09-30-2009
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If this is safety glass - two layers of glass with a thick 'plastic' layer in between, then the 'spots' are probably loss of adhesion of the plastic to the glass. This probably need to be replaced or soon the whole 'sandwich' will will separate.

The best way to remedy this is to seal the edges of the cut safety glass with a thick coating of high strength epoxy ... to seal the edges of the polymer used in the sandwich. Your glass cutter may also have other suggestions on how to 'seal' the edges to prevent such 'discoloration', loss of adhesion, etc. BTW... using silicone caulk for sealing such 'safety glass' will accelerate the degradation of the plastic center .... the acidic acid in the silicone caulk eventually reacts with the sandwich polymer.
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