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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Pacific Seacraft
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  #1  
Old 08-05-2009
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Anchor rode flaking

I'm the new owner of hull #234, a beautiful PSC 37, 1990. I've had possession for over a month and am working through the systems and taking it out sailing learning how it handles etc.

There is one thing that I would like to adjust on the boat regarding how the chain falls from the manual windlass into the chain locker. The locker is split into two sides. The smaller port side is for a shorter mostly line rode, while the starboard side of the locker is 1/2 of the forward split and it extends aft to occupy the enter chain locker. The line side is roughly 1/4 the whole volume, the larger starboard side occupies 3/4. I have a 300' 5/16th chain rode. The problem is that as the chain falls from the windlass, it does not fall back into the end of the locker. It piles up below the windlass until it eventually piles up blocking the windlass. If I raise some of the rode, then head below to flake the chain, return to raise more chain, flake below etc it works. But that's a little tedious.

I was wondering if anybody on the forum had the same problem, and if so, how they solved it?

I'm loving this boat and am looking forward to many years and miles in the future!


Craig,
Luckness,
PSC 37, #234.
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2009
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We have the same problem with our 200' of 3/8" chain. All we do is stick the lever for the manual windlass down the chain hole and kind of lever the chain out of the way until the mountain of chain in the locker collapses - then go back to winching it in... It's quite easy to knock the chain down this way.

Enjoy your new boat! Congratulations!

Bill
s/v Toodle-oo!
PSC 37 #148
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Old 08-05-2009
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I love this solution, it sounds simple and robust. I'll give it a try when I'm raising anchor this weekend! Thanks!

I'm happy to hear there are other manual windlass users out there. Just after buying the boat I was considering installing an electric windlass. The manual seems to be fine so far, a little exercise is a good thing. The manual seems robust, easy to maintain, simple. The windlass is rated for 1200lbs, my rode and anchor are 350. I've only anchored twice with this boat so far, both in close to dead calm conditions. Bill - has your experience with the manual windlass been positive? Are you planning on continuing with it or would you prefer to have an electric on board? If anybody else has an opinion on manual vs. electric, I'd love to hear them.


Craig,
s/v Luckness,
PSC 37 #234.
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Old 08-06-2009
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Craig,

I have no intention of changing to an electric windlass - we both like what we have. It's perhaps a little more challenging for us, since we put a 60# Manson Supreme anchor (I know, total overkill - but I sleep soundly at night!) on the end and when it digs in it can be an sob to pull out. Even so, the manual gives us great feel for what's hapening down below and out of sight. When it's firmly planted, we go to the low gear side and just keep pulling - it always comes free - so far - touch wood!

Bill
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Old 08-06-2009
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Thanks Bill. I have a Rocna 20 (44lbs) and lighter chain than your 3/8" so it sounds like I would need to be a wimp to buy an electric windlass at this point

I'll keep going with this equipment and setup. Thanks for your help.


Craig,
s/v Luckness,
PSC 37, #234,
Seattle, WA.
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Old 08-20-2009
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Dear Craig, Like you I also seriously flirted with a couple of electric windlasses, especially because the original Muir Manual needed a serious overhaul when we got the boat this past winter. Eventually I decided to stay with the "keep it simple" mantra and so far am glad of it. We are just back from 3 1/2 weeks cruising the coast of Maine, during which we anchored all but three nights using our Manson 35 with 60' 3/8" chain and 250' 5/8 Brait. We usually anchor going downwind about 1.5 to 2 knots. We then cleat the line at the appropriate length for the depth and when the boat rounds up smartly we know the anchor is well and truly dug in! It set perfectly every time but often came up up with an additional 10 to 15 lbs of mud! The windlass gives great feedback. I always know when we are about to break out (handy information for the person at the helm). If I'm patient the boat then does the breaking out and then I crank in the remaining bits as quickly as I can.

Like you and Bill, our chain tends to pile up beneath the hawse pipe. I'm going to try Bill's solution though our hawse pipe is so small that the windlass handle will not fit so I'll have to rig a fiberglass wand for the task.

So, all told, I'm staying with the manual windlass for the foreseeable future. I love that we don't need the engine to get the anchor up and think that sailing it out keeps our skills sharp(er).

Happy sailing, Jay

PSC 37 3 171, Kenlanu
Buck's Harbor, Maine
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Old 08-21-2009
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Ditto on using a manual windlass. Our 34 deploys a Rocna 15 with an all chain rode. When retrieving, we just motor up easy as the chain is cranked aboard using our standard S/L unit. Then let the weight of the boat break the anchor out of the bottom and retrieve. Even with an electric unit, I think it's still necessary to motor up as the rode is winched aboard to avoid over loading the unit and popping the circuit breaker.

John S.
PSC 34 # 201
"Norstar"
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Old 08-21-2009
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Thanks Jay and John. The manual windlass is working out well for me so far, and I do like the fact that I don't need to rely on electronics or running the engine when I pull the anchor up. I haven't considered anchoring downwind but can see the attraction, and with my all chain rode I have less to worry about running over the rode than Jay would.

I've tried Bill's solution with using the windlass handle to push the rode back into a deeper part of the chain locker. That windlass handle didn't work for me as the handle wasn't long enough and was too wide to fit into the chain pipe hole. But using the same idea I bought a length of thin pipe that I can stick into the secondary chain pipe to the port of the windlass. From that angle, I can knock down the building pile and push it back a little. With that setup, I was able to bring up the whole 300' of chain without having to run below and distribute the chain. Sweet! The pile isn't ideal, I can't push the chain back far enough in the locker from the deck as the angles don't work out - the pipe ends up hitting the locker wall which is quite forward of the end of the locker. Now that I know this works, I'll try to find a solid stainless pipe to use. Fiberglass may not be strong enough, I end up pushing with quite a lot of force to push the chain back.

I'm also considering cutting the chain locker divider out to make the locker hold only one rode. I went down to the Seacraft Yacht Sales docks here in Seattle a few days ago to look at their three 37's. Each of them had a different anchor locker setup. One was divided full length front to back into two equal halves. One was divided in half port-starboard, which would make flaking the chain manually difficult from the deck. One had my setup where the division is unequal, about 3/4 and 1/4. The last boat also had a manual muir and when I looked below, it had a tall pile of chain below the windlass with no chain in the back of the locker.

With my setup the 1/4 sized locker isn't large enough to hold a serious amount of rode. The boat came with 80' 3-strand in that locker, and its about 2/3 full. If I needed the second rode in storm conditions to set a second anchor, there wouldn't be enough in there to be worthwhile. If I lost my primary rode, the secondary wouldn't be able to replace it. I'm considering installing a longer rode in my stern locker - and if needed, I could bring it forward to set off the bow. If my bow locker was one large space, the chain should come off the windlass beautifully.

Does anybody have any thoughts on making the anchor locker into a single space?
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Old 09-14-2009
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thanks guys , cathy and I are also new to our S/V Lively lady , PSC 37 #231 as of january and looking to upgrade our ground tackle ( thinking of a 45 lb CQR or Bruce with 300 ft, 5/16 high tensile chain to fit current Gypsy and worry about the relative (smallish and forward) chain locker. Thoughts out there ? Bill S/V LL , PSC#231
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Old 09-14-2009
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If you're going to add a new anchor, I'd REALLY recommend going with a new generation anchor rather than CQR or Bruce. (I know, dangerous subject matter!)
I have a Manson Supreme, knock off of the Rockna and I think the Spade is also very good.
Since replacing my 45# CQR with the Mason Supreme, I have never dragged, and it almost always grabs immediately making setting a doddle. Granted mine is way oversize - If I had it to do again, I'd go with a 45# Rockna rather than the 60# MS I have - but I sleep at night without worry.
The 60# MS fits the standard roller.

(FWIW)

Bill

Toodle-oo!
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