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post #1 of 13 Old 02-08-2010 Thread Starter
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Boom

Chalk this one up to stuff I assume everyone knows but me.

My boom is welded shut on the aft end. Looks to have been created that way. I do not see any way to get inside to lubricate blocks, replace lines, or get more than a four inch wide and half inch high view to see what is going on.

Specifically, how do change the outhaul line? I would like to run the outhaul to the mast, then down and back to the cockpit. It currently exits through a slot on the port side of the boom with a line too short to do all that.

John Van Dinther
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-08-2010
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Hi John,

Is there any reason you couldn't use a messenger line?

I.e., Attach messenger to old outhaul, pull old outhaul out, attach new outhaul to messenger, pull messenger back through.


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post #3 of 13 Old 02-09-2010
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If you can't use a messenger line, we lost one of the reefing lines that goes through our boom (tie a KNOT I yell at myself) and ended up using a spool metal wire that (after 10 or so tries) we managed to get through the entire boom.

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s/v Estrellita 5.10b, Wauquiez Pretorien 35

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post #4 of 13 Old 02-09-2010
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It can be done without too much fuss. With my mate I used a long thin fiberglass rod from each end.

Steve
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-09-2010
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My favorite cheap trick is to get two lengths of the smallest sized pvc pipe that I can find and then drill two parellel holes in the side near the very end of one of them (I'll call this the first pipe and the other the second pipe) I then tie loops shockchord tightly through the holes. (If the pvc pipes are too short a buy couples and glue them to one end and screw to the other so I can disassemble them for storage).

I pass the end of the second PVC pipe through one loop of shock chord. Leaving a 3-4" tail, I then pass a loop at the end of the line that I want to reeve over the end of the second pvc pipe and then pass the second pvc pipe through the second loop.

I then feed the line up the boom and when I have the end of it in hand, I pull out the second tube releasing the line and then remove the first tube.

This set up is cheap to make, and works every time.

Jeff


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post #6 of 13 Old 02-09-2010
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I need to do the same thing on my boom too, however on the C37 the boom end cap is theoretically removable. Anyone actually managed to remove the end cap? I took a screwdriver to the screws that hold the end cap on but couldn't budge them.

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post #7 of 13 Old 02-10-2010
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My end cap is welded although you can easily remove the blocks for better access. When placing lines I found it easy to get them crossed so one has to be careful they don't set up a crossover condition. (I had no previous lines to use as messengers.)

Steve
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-10-2010 Thread Starter
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Boom Block?

The reason I have not tried a messenger or the other great tricks above to move take a new outhaul through the boom is that I think/thought the outhaul line is attached inside the boom.

What I know: A sled like object is in the slot shackled to the clew and attached to a wire rope which goes around a block at the end of the boom. About midway through the boom going forward the wire rope attaches to something difficult to see trying to peek through a small slot portside just aft of that spot. About a foot forward of that slot the outhaul exits through another slot also on the port side of the boom headed forward toward the mast.

What I think: I think the wire rope attaches to a block. I think the outhaul goes around that block and then forward to an anchor point inside the boom giving a two to one purchase with the moving block attached to the wire rope.

I must be wrong, right? No one would attach the outhaul to the inside of the boom. Only the builder could do that, right? (I posted this hoping to hear that you just release the hidden boom button behind the goose neck and the boom opens like a book.)

If, contrary to appearances, the wire rope is spliced to the outhaul then the messenger or other techniques suggested above will be a snap. Especially if, as Steve mac points out, I can easily remove the blocks at the end of the boom. (but I still think there is a block and tackle involved in there)

Back to the boat Saturday with tiny flashlights and some help to shed more light on what is actually going on in there.

Thanks for the ideas.

John
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-10-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmjr View Post
(I posted this hoping to hear that you just release the hidden boom button behind the goose neck and the boom opens like a book.)
Oh, you haven't tried the hidden boom button yet!?!?!

John, I follow your description exactly. the only thing I wonder about is whether there is a 2:1 purchase inside the boom for the outhaul. I've often thought that I'd like to have some more mechanical advantage on the outhaul, and had assumed it was simply 1:1 with the line spliced directly to the wire.

BUT, you could be right about the 2:1, with the line doubling back through a block. In fact, that seems more probable (it would certainly be the better design). In that case, I would assume the other end of the outhaul line must be terminated up near the gooseneck cap. Is the gooseneck cap perhaps more easily removed than the boom end cap?

This is an interesting mystery to me. I would be tempted to drive out to the boat to have a gander, but we have 3+ feet of snow on the ground here, with blizzard conditions. So it will be a while before I make it out there again. Keep us posted.


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post #10 of 13 Old 02-13-2010
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I have the rigging detail blueprint that I picked up at the factory in 1993. It shows an outhaul sheave inside the boom, just forward of that sheave is a link with 2 clevis pins. The wire rope that is attached to the outhaul car is swaged to the aft end and the rope is spliced to the forward end. The the rope runs forward, out of the boom to the cleat on the boom.

Larry
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