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  #31  
Old 03-22-2010
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"Andante" had a fixed prop when we sea-trialed her, but I switched to a Max-prop. Much better control in reverse.

One problem with Max-props was that the zinc corroded very quickly. Finally, they started shipping little plastic sleeves for the screws along with the zincs and this has corrected the problem. If you get one, make sure you use the sleeves.

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Karl "Andante" PSC 34 #276
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  #32  
Old 03-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andantesail View Post
One problem with Max-props was that the zinc corroded very quickly. Finally, they started shipping little plastic sleeves for the screws along with the zincs and this has corrected the problem. If you get one, make sure you use the sleeves.
I buy Max Prop zincs all the time and have never seen these sleeves. Where are you getting your zincs?
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  #33  
Old 03-22-2010
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I just received a box of 6 maxprop zincs from PYI and they came with hardware that included 2 sizes of allen screws and plastic inserts that appear to fit the smaller size screws. My prop uses the larger screws so don't think the nylon sleeves will work for mine.

John S.
PSC 34 # 201
Norstar
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2010
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What do you pay per zinc from PYI?
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Old 03-22-2010
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Where do you get a good price on maxprop zincs??
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I buy wholesale from a local chandlery here in Alameda (Svendsen's). They are made by Reliance, in Canada and aren't the same zinc that PYI sells. They're better, IMHO, but don't come with the plastic screw insert.
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2010
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As for propeller calculations I'd recommend looking at Dave Gerr's "Propeller Handbook". Michigan Wheel will do the calculations on thier computer but it's also good to have done your own back-up calulations. I think that the computers however can underestimate the need for needed blade area when pushing against storm conditions as most load calculations are done by hull resistance witout adding the additional force of the wind on the rigging. That's where your class association advice may be valuable.
There's a SNAME report somewhere on propeller drag tests for different propellers if you can find it.
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Old 03-24-2010
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John, okay so you got the plastic sleeves from PYI which is where mine came from. Sorry they don't fit your zincs. These have made a huge difference in the way the zincs wear. Previously they wore out at the screws, dumping most of the zinc into the silt below the rudder. Now the zinc actually wears out.

Maybe PYI has the sleeves for the bigger screws?

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Karl Andante PSC 34 #276
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  #39  
Old 03-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andantesail View Post
John, okay so you got the plastic sleeves from PYI which is where mine came from. Sorry they don't fit your zincs. These have made a huge difference in the way the zincs wear. Previously they wore out at the screws, dumping most of the zinc into the silt below the rudder. Now the zinc actually wears out.
To achieve the same effect I've been doing a little trick that I picked up in one of the sail mags about 10 years ago. The idea is to paint - NOT Bottom Paint - or use fingernail polish around the screw area to slow down the erosion at the zincs weakest points. It helps for cone or shaft zincs.
As for the original theme of this thread I put on an AutoProp on my previous C320 and it was going strong for the 4 yerars until I traded it in for my current boat which came used with an AutoProp. I believe I'm into year 8 with my current AutoProp with no problems. AutoProp seeems to have priced their way out of the mainstream but for me, especially now with a motor sailor, it does exactly what it claims. Although..... I wouldn't even want to think what the replacement cost might be now on my much larger prop
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  #40  
Old 03-25-2010
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CL...I used fingernail polish on my max-prop screws, but it didn't work nearly as well as these sleeves which have a little lip on top that keeps the screw head off the zinc.

I'd spoken to a tech at PYI back a few years ago and he was very defensive, denying there was such a problem. How things change.

Karl
Andante PSC 34 #276
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