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post #1 of 17 Old 03-29-2010 Thread Starter
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removing prop

This is a lot less complicated than the cutless bearing discussion.

I simply want to remove the prop from my 31--so I can take it home and paint it more easily.

However, when I removed the cotter pin, and the two nuts, it still would not come free.

I am not anxious to buy a prop-puller.

Are there any tricks to this? I am thinking of a rubber mallet as the most force I would use.

Also, when I re-tighten the nuts, is there a recommended torque?

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post #2 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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I just bought 4 prop pullers (actually gear pullers) on eBay for IIRC $20 plus shipping. Why not just get one and re-sell it when you don't need it?

6"Gear Puller - 3 Jaw - Heavy Duty : eBay Motors (item 360242327614 end time Apr-04-10 18:00:00 PDT)

I think you may need a 2-jaw puller if you have a 2-blade prop. I haven't used mine yet for prop pulling yet.

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Last edited by Bene505; 03-29-2010 at 02:40 PM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstSightPS31 View Post
Are there any tricks to this?
Yes. The trick is to use the right tool for the job. You need a prop puller.
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-29-2010 Thread Starter
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The prop sits very close to the rudder (skeg hung) so I am not sure there is room for the gear puller. Nice suggestion though.

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post #5 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstSightPS31 View Post
The prop sits very close to the rudder (skeg hung) so I am not sure there is room for the gear puller.
Another reason to use a prop puller. It is unlikely that you will be able to remove the prop otherwise.
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstSightPS31 View Post

I simply want to remove the prop from my 31--so I can take it home and paint it more easily.
Hi,

Haven't had to pull ours yet, so can't offer a suggestion. My only thought is, given the difficulty you're having with removing the prop, why not just paint it in place?

It only takes a couple minutes to spray the entire prop with the Pettit zinc barnacle buster prop paint. It dries quickly, too, so you can get a few coats on in relatively short time period.

Just a thought. Anyway, let us know how it goes.


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post #7 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Don't know about the PSC 31 but many apertures open up when the rudder is swung full over, at least enough to get a gear puller in there.

With a properly installed prop you will NOT get it off with a hammer and will only damage the prop trying. Trust me it takes a lot of ft pounds of torque even with a gear puller before it finally goes POP! Always leave a nut on loosely when using a prop puller or it will go flying right off the shaft..

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Hmmm, my maxprop hub came off pretty easily this winter.

PYI suggested I use anti-sieze when I put it back on...
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Hmmm, my maxprop hub came off pretty easily this winter.

PYI suggested I use anti-sieze when I put it back on...
Very scary!!!!

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post #10 of 17 Old 03-29-2010
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Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Very scary!!!!
What?

That I have a maxprop?
That it came off easy?
That they recommend anti-seize?

That I can't find my setscrews?
That I know how to spell?

Don't leave me hanging like this!
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