
04-13-2010
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: oriental NC
Posts: 139
Rep Power: 5
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Hi yellowtaxi,
I just dropped my rudder to get my shaft and cutlass bearing out.
I have the rack and pinion steering so all I had to do was remove the tiller arm from the post, remove the bronze gudgeon from the skeg and dig a hole deep enough to get the rudder post out. It went well, just make sure that when you remove the thru bolt that locks the tiller arm or steering quadrant in place that you make sure the hole is countersunk or sanded smooth so you don't get hung up in the post stuffing box on the way out.
The gudgeon was a bit stubborn but once I got the 4 thru bolts out I just worked some putty knives around to break the caulking and she came loose.
The rudder was not all that heavy, I just blocked it up with some planks and lowered it by hand into the 12" deep hole I dug. I did take a moment to seal the plywood core visible thru the holes in the skeg with some west epoxy.
I replaced the cutlass and I was surprised that the locking bolts were stainless steel and were tapped into the cutlass. I plan to replace them with 10/24 silicon bronze bolts but I've been thinking of a way to lock the cutlass without having to drill it and tap it. I could use stainless steel allen head set screws but don't want to introduce electrolysis in that area. Anyone have ideas? I'm just thinking that down the road if the cutlass goes again and I need to replace it w/o removing the shaft it would be difficult to drill and tap the holes in the exact place needed.
I did send my shaft and coupling out to get checked, the prop shop straightened my shaft and faced the coupling to the shaft.
My PSS shaft seal should arrive this week so this week end I'll install everything this weekend.
The alternate way to get the shaft out is to move the engine out of the way and remove the prop.
Good luck
__________________
Regards,
Steve
PSC 31 #125
Ryoko
Oriental, NC
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