Swaged fittings vs. mechanical fittings

[unomio]

After losing both lifelines in the middle of the Pacific on our way to the Marquesas, we bought gear for an emergency replacement of a stay or shroud (per another thread--no storms, no water over the deck, just broken lifelines on a four year old boat) and we're going to try the Colligo terminators and blocks with Dyneema for the lifelines as well next go-round. After talking with Brion Toss and one of his former apprentices, we expect the new-old tech to work as well as the swage or mechanical variety, and that it should be eminently more replaceable, especially under way. Chafe will be an issue, so we'll have to watch for it. The necessary spares will take less room than wire and be lighter and more versatile. A very important bonus is that we anticipate it will be easier to _see_ wear and chafe than it is to see a developing problem on a swaged fitting.

A word on replacing swaged fittings in Tahiti--the immediately available wire and fittings are metric.

[Chartreuse]

So, my newly acquired 26 Grampian was leaning to the starboard, and I believe the cause is the standing rigging as the aft, starboard lower shroud is super tight, but the turnbuckle is loosened all the way, and the fwd, port lower shroud is super slack with the turnbuckle tightened all the way. All the turnbuckles move freely, doesnt seem to be much rust by the swage ends...Would it be possible for me to simply replace the two lower shrouds? Does anyone have the length of the shrouds? Obviously I dont want to drop a lot of bread, but I also dont want my mast to fall over on my noggin. Any and all help or info about standing rigging, stepping my mast and/or some costs related to this job, Id be greatful to hear from you. Thanks for reading!

[okapi3]

Going back to the Dyneema emergency repair kit. I just checked and it cost $380 for the 7mm (equals up to 1/4" 1 x19 wire) and $600 for 9mm (equals up to 3/8" wire). These include line to repair one shroud. Since for me money is definitely a factor, although Dyneema is clearly the better solution for an emergency repair, I am still considering saving a couple of my old shrouds when I replace my standing rigging this summer. But I am open to being talked out of this if people more experienced than I think it is false economy. What do you think?

[hellosailor]

A note in passing, Don Street's "Cruising Yacht" books, published in the 70s? 80s? devoted some attention to swages versus mecahnical fasteners, and most of what is on the market today, was already available back then. These things have been in use for decades, and they have a proven history.

What it all comes back to is that "patent" fittings cost more bucks per each fitting. But swages require a large and expensive tool to be properly made. So if you need to take spares with you--the patent fittings are going to be cheaper. If your rigging is going to be fitted professionally where the roll swage equipment already lives...no brainer, they're cheaper and equally effective.

One is better suited for production work in a yard, the other better for carrying spares to use at sea. Properly installed, from a reputable source, both work just fine.

[BMLipiec]

I just began a re-rig of our boat and went with the sta-lok fittings. There are a ton of different opinions by reputable professionals. All one has to do is pick up a few cruising books and realize that even the experts don't always agree. I tend to read them all and try to match their cruising style/philosophy with my own. That being said, I lean towards the belief that swages are not the best option while long distance cruising in tropical climates due to the corrosion issue. However, had my cruising ambitions differed I may have gone another route.
Also, I did a cost comparison before purchasing and found that a swaged eye (9/32 wire) cost $17 ($18 for turnbuckle stud) plus another $10 for a professional to swage it. The Sta-lok terminal cost $42 ($50 for a turnbuckle stud) and I installed them myself. Thus I spent an extra $296 for Sta-loks for the entire re-rig. To me that is a small price for piece of mind.
Like all things, there is a learning curve. I destroyed the first fitting (use thread locker as a lubricant when assembling or risk galling). Add $50 to the total above for "learning mistakes".
However, word of caution for those thinking of taking mechanical fittings as spares, I'm glad I learned that lesson back on shore and not while out in the middle of the pacific with limited supplies. Once you do one or two you will find they are fairly simple to assemble.
My 2 cents.