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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2010
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JUNO's Seagull, I believe it's a model X-IF, is plumbed into the fresh water system. The filter takes off from a tee to the cold fresh water line and is screw-mounted into the cabinetry below the galley sink, It has its own spigot/faucet (which adds one more to the hefty line-up that sits on the countertop behind the sink in the galley -- regular water, foot pump, refrigerator pumpout, and midship water tank overflow/vent). The pressure generated by the boat's fresh water pump provides more than adequate pressure. Conversely, in its home installation, the house water pressure is a bit high for the Seagull and its faucet must be opened very slowly to avoid WBB (wicked bad blowback).

Hope that answers your question.

Roger Lopata
JUNO
PSC 40 -- #46
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2010
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I have a Seagull filter to a foot pump. Without it the water tastes really scary. With it, it tastes delicious. Better than any tap water from the faucet. Makes the foot pump run very slow but it's worth it. Seagulls are expensive, about $90 just for the element. Be sure to remove the element before winterizing or the antifreeze will ruin your $90 element. How do I know this?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010
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Foul water

I would a agree with several of the comment's,
we have a crealock 34 and a Flicka; two different approaches,

water bags inside the molded fiberglass tanks on the Flicka. that is after installing large access ports on the tops for access. price is right, and you can take all the parts with you. call pacific sea craft for the sizes of the built in tanks and go on line for flexible tank inserts.
you are still going to want to add the best replaceable filter you can buy.
And, if you have not replaced your water feed hoses, do it at the same time, they can turn foul. indeed, in order of price, ease, and price, I would do the filter(you will be amazed) hoses (could well be your main problem) and tank clean out acess panels (you will find major yuck)
to use the clean out panels to best affect, you will need access to a pressure washer in the boat.

the other approach is to install large acess panels, or remove the plywood covers, clean out the tanks, sand, and coat with epoxy. then replace the covers with marine board. you still need to do the hoses and filter.
check on the amount of hose with PS, it will be a lot.

it's a major effort, but must be done.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2010
s/v Cool Breez'n
 
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Potable water in Sea of Cortez

My family and I are heading to the Sea of Cortez for a 6-month voyage starting next year. We're wondering if we really need to install a water maker.

I really don't want to spend the $$$ for a reverse osmosis water maker and the 12 volt systems I've read about don't really produce much water for the power they consume.

It sounds as though you have some experience in Mexicio and I was wondering if you could tell me about availablility of drinking warter in ports around the Sea of Cortez.
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Old 10-12-2010
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granche1 -
The very best analysis is to locate a water lab that can do organics analysis (especially for determining the nature of the leachables) and have the proper analysis performed. Then, you dont waste a lot of time 'cogitating your navel' on which 'internet suggestion' is valid or plain dangerous. Once you get the report; then, 'attack the REAL problem'.

"Taste" is not a valid criteria for water quality, especially for (harmful/dangerous) leachables in the parts per million or parts per trillion range.

Dont get 'railroaded' into installing 'fancy filter system' especially systems that require usage of a proprietary geometries that lock-you-in to a single vendor.

Styrene Monomer .... then go to the left sidebar for toxicity, etc.

Last edited by RichH; 10-12-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010
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Wow, this thread has generated a lot of useful advice. I made it down to my boat for a week of maintenance but could not bring myself to remove the plywood covers as they appeared quite nicely adhered to the top of the tanks with copious amounts of silicon and removing them seemed like it would put the boat out of commission until I could properly reinstall. When I go back down, I will bring some 8" beckson ports. Do you think that there is any reason why you would need to remove the tank covers to install these round access ports? Once installed I will scrub any gunck that I find and peer about for possible styrene blisters. I have purchased 60' of trident 1/2" water hose and will attempt to wriggle it into place this winter. Im still on the fence about the filter but am thinking Ill probably get one. The water that I drink at home just bubbles up out of the earth. We dont filter it in any way. But it does not sit around in tanks made of leach-able material. Im less afraid of poop I guess. I like the idea about having the water analyzed. I wish I had brought back a sample. There ought to be a lab in mexico that can do an organic analysis? I always filter the water that goes into the boats tanks from the dock with a filter that I purchased in mazatlan for $80. Most cruisers I know down there do not think there is any real reason not to drink the municipal mexican water. I do it. But then again, I drink out of just about every source of clean looking running water that does not have a cow standing in it. There is plenty of water available at any marina you go to in the Sea of Cortez and bottled water is available pretty much everywhere.

Thanks for all the help
Grant
s/v Viandante
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2010
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as far as pulling the new water hose, one of the best tools I have on the boat, is an electrian's "fish" tape. I prefer the fiberglass one ,rather than the steel version. It is amazing where these will wiggle thru. then smooth tape the end of the how or wire and slide it back. Home depot stocks these at a reasonable price, get one the length of your mast. The other gadget that goes with this is a device that looks like a chinese finger trap, stretch it over the hose, pull tight and it really grabs it.
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