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  #31  
Old 04-11-2011
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Chuck,

I gotta wonder whether that stem fitting will need replacing. I suppose some would argue with me, but if you look at the scantlings for that thing, they're twice what Skene's recommends for chainplates of that wire size. Also, it fixed between the bow roller plates so it can't flex like the chainplates do. I've opted for frequent inspection instead of replacing. It may be a rationalization for my basically lazy personality, but I'm going to stick with it.

Dave
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Old 04-11-2011
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Dave,

I initially felt the same way about the stem head fitting but I think that the older boats like mine may be constructed differently from yours.I don't have a bowsprit like the newer boats and the build may not be as robust.
Mine has a SS strap that bolts thru into the anchor locker and is welded to the 2 anchor rollers at the bend around the deck.The strap is 1/4 SS the same as the port and strbd chainplates.After seeing the degradation of the plates that were rpld ,I'm no longer confident in the stem or stern plates.The thought of what could happen if the stem breaks would keep me awake nights if I didnt replace it.Ditto for the stern.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
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  #33  
Old 04-12-2011
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Your right Chuck. The strap on the 1996 is 3/8" x 1.75" wide x 7/8" radius, pretty hefty. Yes, I would lose sleep too.

Dave
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Old 04-15-2011
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In the pursuit of further knowledge today we sheared the corroded chainplate 3 more times at 4" intervals.As previously noted the corroded piece was from the lowest part of the chainplate(closest to the water).The subsequent cuts were all good metal,no corrosion evident.I think this confirms what Bill Murdoch said about Chloride corrosion from seawater immersion.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
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