Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The house is in Kingsport, TN. Boats are on Watauga Lake and in New Bern, NC
Thanked 26 Times in 22 Posts
Rep Power: 9
I thought about putting an electric oil change pump on the engine, but canceled that idea; too much money. Buying the stuff, installing the pump, and adding a drain to the oil pan would run maybe $1000. I figure $1000 invested will earn $40 a year. $40 will buy two cases of beer a year. I’d rather have the two cases of beer every year for the rest of my life than the installed oil change pump.
I use one of the brass piston hand pumps that West Marine sells to change the oil in our Yanmar 3HM35F. We live on the boat about five months a year, and I change the oil several times a year, usually at anchor. (We are now in the Abacos slowly working our way back to North Carolina.) The hand pump needs some modifications most of which I have learned from others. To speed the removal of the oil, the pickup tube needs to be metal and as large in diameter as will easily fit through the dip stick hole. 3/8 tubing is just a little tight. 11/32 is perfect. The hardware store near my house keeps a collection of thin wall brass tubing that comes in diameter increments of 1/32. I have also seen it in hobby/model stores. To fit 1/2 inch hose to the tubing, I cut the hose barb off a brass hose to NPT adaptor, slid it over the tube, and soldered it in place. I trimmed the tube to a length that will just reach the bottom of the oil pan and make a satisfying clink when it drops into place. I put 1/2 inch hose between the pickup tube and the hand pump and an inch or two of hose on the pump discharge which I stick into an empty gallon oil container to collect the used oil. To keep the pump and all its parts together after it becomes slick with oil, I put hose clamps on the suction hose ends and on the red rubber ends of the pump. To keep the assembly from dripping oil in storage, I put a rubber stopper in the end of the discharge hose, and I slip another rubber stopper with a 1/4 in hole drilled part way into it over the end of the pickup tube. I store it all wrapped in paper towels in a zip lock bag, but I am looking for the right size Tupper Ware box to store it in.
Up to now I have been using a zip lock bag slipped over the horizontal oil filter with the stiffened edge pulled up under the flange where the oil runs out to try (with about 50% success) to catch the oil that spills from the filter. Next time I will try another method that was suggested to me. It goes like this. Loosen the filter to prove that you will be able to get it off and to find the spot where it just begins to drip. Tighten the filter back 1/2 turn. Drive a sharpened 16d nail halfway into the filter at the top away from the flange and remove the nail. Holding a tin can under the filter loosen it back so that the hole is on the bottom. The oil in the filter will drain out of the hole and into the tin can while air sucks in through the leaking flange. When drained, tighten the filter back and plug the hole with a piece of dowel rod sharpened in a pencil sharpener. Now remove the drained filter.
1988 PSC 34