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Need a new fuel tank

4K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  apogee1mars 
#1 ·
I pulled the fuel tank on my 1990 PSC 31 yesterday and found the source of the fuel that has been filling my bilge: a 3/4" diameter hole at the aft end. Aside from some corrosion in that area, the rest of the tank looks to be in good shape. I've had conflicting advice on whether something like this can be repaired. Can anyone recommend a source for a new aluminum tank? Given everything else I've done and plan to do, a new fiberglass tank from the factory is not in the cards. My boat is in Annapolis.

Many thanks.

Al Lorman
s/v Ann West, PSC 31 No. 55
 
#2 ·
Al,

One local fabricator is Atlantic Spars & Riggging -- I'm working with them on my tank replacement project. Ask for Jim.

The folks at Bacon's mentioned a smaller shop just south of them -- recommended the guy pretty strongly. The name of the shop escapes my memory, but it might be worth a call/visit to Bacon's to nail it down.

There are likely several others -- hope other folks will chime in.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I contacted West System epoxy and they sent pretty specific directions for using fiberglass and epoxy to fix the hole, which they thought was no big deal. Other folks have told me that that kind of fix won't last. I think I will see about having an aluminum repair plate welded over the area, as the rest of the tank seems sound. And I will certainly pressure test any repair that is done.

Al
 
#9 ·
I'm no expert, but it seems that water/bilge gunk might have been trapped against the tank in that location since it is next to the fiberglass piece that s holds the tank in place. Another possibility is stray electrical current from one of the cables running in the area. The hole was less than 3/4" when I pulled the tank; it got that size when I barely touched it with one finger.

Al
 
#10 ·
So it's corrosion then... ouch.

If you've got an inspection port in the tank, you'll probably want to open her up and check out the inside thoroughly. If you don't have an inspection port you may be able to get a mirror in through the fill hole or some other opening. It'll be a pain in the kiester, and may require draining the tank. Unless you can be absolutely sure you've removed all of the corroded metal, this may become a recurring project.

Hope all works out well.
 
#12 ·
Al,

Since the dirty work's already done and the tank's out, I'd probably take it around to welding shops to at least get a few estimates on what a welded patch would run you. You may find that it'll be comparable to the cost of epoxy supplies, and in the long run will be the more satisfactory solution. If it turns out to be appreciably more expensive, then you'll know for sure and will only be out the cost of a few gallons of gas and some drive time.
 
#14 ·
All good advice, the other thing I would do, with tank out, would be a hammer test.
Same as you see the surveyorS do. Small ball pien hammer, tap all over the tank listening for the sound of thin/ aft metal spots. Or another 3/4 hole may appear.
Best to know now.

I wonder if we could have account of the number of owners and the age of their boats when they first had tank problems? I assume most of us that have not yet gone thru this, are about to!
 
#15 ·
I had the same problem (corrosion) on the aft end of the tank on our 37. Our hole, however, was much smaller, 1/16" or so. As we were (are) broke, and it was winter and were using the tank for our Espar, we pulled it, peened and cleaned it, filled the hole from the inside with the "fuel" version of plumber's putty, then applied two tubes worth of JB Weld to the outside. Been fine for eight months, I'd expect to get a year or two out of it.

As you mentioned, that probably wouldn't work with a large hole, but it should not be a problem for a competent welder/tank shop to put a new bottom plate in.

There's alot of debate about aluminum vs. fiberglass tanks and corrosion. My personal opine is that a properly coated aluminum tank is fine. Key being properly. If you can find a super hard and durable epoxy like coal tar epoxy, that will give good protection in the bilge area and is very resistant to chipping, rubbing, scratches during install, etc., which is what causes most of the coated aluminum tanks to develop a local corrosion cell.
 
#16 ·
I tried to get a quote on welding a patch on from Atlantic Spars today and they said they never repair fuel tanks. They would gladly build me one for about $1,100. John Justin gave me a ballpark estimate of $450.

I examined the inside of my tank today by putting a digital camera into the access port and taking photos. In general, the tank looks to be in quite good shape inside. The welds look somewhat like they are rusting, which they're obviously not, but that may be how an unpolished weld in aluminum looks. I am really tempted to try the epoxy and fiberglass method that the West System folks suggested so I can get the project done and go back to doing some sailing.

Al
 
#17 ·
If you do that you're out only about $50 plus your time. Sounds like an acceptable risk Vs. the $$ savings.

I'm always torn when repairs are needed between having it (re)done perfect, Bristol, factory fresh versus whatever farmer's fix I can come up with that is safe. The lightness of of my wallet at the time is usually the determinant. And doing the cheapest, lowest tech quasi-temporary repair will give you practice for when something breaks in some far-flung locale during your circumnavigation!

I am really tempted to try the epoxy and fiberglass method that the West System folks suggested so I can get the project done and go back to doing some sailing.

Al
 
#19 ·
A new factory fiberglass tank is ridiculously expensive, 2 or 3 grand (frankly, as is everything I've asked Pacific Seacraft for a price quote on). My tank developed a hole not because it sat too low in the bilge, which was surprisingly dry, but because some wet crud was trapped against one spot in the tank. I've eliminated the crud trap.

Al
 
#20 ·
The tank can be repaired using the same technique as used in the fabrication of the Vans RV series aircraft. You could even cut an inspection hole in the tank to make sure you are doing all of the corroded areas. Not that tough. Just some sheet aluminum, rivets and sealant will do the job. Not to mention the grunt work of R&R.
 
#21 ·
Not that I have any first hand experience. But I thought I may have to replace my tank or repair it at one time.

Contacted the guy in Huntington Beach, California for pricing on a new tank as he is the same guy that built the tanks for these boats back then.

His price as I remember for my 34 was somewhere around $700 as I remember.

Given the age and quality of a Pacific Seacraft it doesn't seem to warrant a repair of that size and magnitude given you've already gone thru the effort to yank the tank.

A fresh new tank would give you the peace of mind that the boat itself gives you.

Sucks to have to blow that much money but then boats are not cheap.

Replace it and forget it for another 20 years. If you repair it you still have a 20 year old tank in there with plenty of unseen aging issues.

Best of luck

Keith
'88 PSC 34
S/V Charity Rose
 
#22 ·
Well, I did it. I epoxied an aluminum plate over the small hole in the front of the tank and then covered the lower rear end of the tank with three to four layers of glass and epoxy and applied two layers of epoxy only on the rest of the the tank. I followed the West System directions, including using the two part aluminum etch to clean and improve adhesion.

I have also removed the fiberglass panel in the bilge that caused the crud to get stuck against the tank int he first place.

Check back in a few years to see how this worked out. ;-)

Al
 
#23 ·
Well, I did it. I epoxied an aluminum plate over the small hole in the front of the tank and then covered the lower rear end of the tank with three to four layers of glass and epoxy and applied two layers of epoxy only on the rest of the the tank. I followed the West System directions, including using the two part aluminum etch to clean and improve adhesion.

I have also removed the fiberglass panel in the bilge that caused the crud to get stuck against the tank int he first place.

Check back in a few years to see how this worked out. ;-)

Al
Good luck with that. Be sure to inform any precious cargo. Always run your blower.
 
#24 ·
While I appreciate your concern, I fail to see the basis for it. Diesel is not very volatile, so running the blower has no real impact, other than esthetic. A bilge full of diesel is still unlikely to explode. The fuel in my tank contacts nothing other than aluminum. Even if some of it touches the epoxy, that is not a concern; PSC builds its new tanks entirely out of fiberglass and epoxy. And if a new leak does develop down the road,it is very unlikely to be catastrophic and quite likely to be detected as the first one was: by fuel in the bilge.

Al
 
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