Aluminum toe rail leak? - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 11-05-2012
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Re: Aluminum toe rail leak?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
I don't know what PSC does, or did on that model. If they did use adhesive plus bolts, it shouldn't need to be opened again. Shouldn't be leaking.

Are you absolutely positive that is where the leak is, as opposed to that being the place where the water is showing up on the interior, perhaps after running across the underside of the deck or down from another spot?

I can't see $40k to open the deck and close it up again, are you saying PSC actually quoted that to you? Or a yard did? reed suggested a price for removing the *entire* deck from the hull. That gets way more complicated than just replacing one rail, rebedding one side. And since that's a labor intensive job and labor rates are so variable...Why not get a quote instead of a web guesstimate?
be sure to specify what you want done. if its to stop leaks, a seamless gasket around the rail will do, assuming all the deck fittings are bedded well. if its to rebed the rails, then its a lot more complicated than a two day job. btdt. a lot of the fasteners are impossible to get to from the inside. go look. a lot of the fasteners will by this time be corroded(yes stainless corrodes) and will break off. and taking the rail off may require breaking the top portion of the flange or at least chiseling out portions. you also need to be sure to level out the new mastic so the rail sits flat. otherwise it will leak again. boats move a lot structurally and seals fatigue, metals get stress induced corrosion, and glass gets hard spots.
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Re: Aluminum toe rail leak?

"you also need to be sure to level out the new mastic so the rail sits flat. otherwise it will leak again. " This is supposedly why C&C used butyl tape as their "caulking". Inherently flat and even, so if the bolts are torqued down fairly evenly, the seal is more reliable. In theory. Everything depends on the extent and nature of the leak. When the options include $40K I think I'd consider all the alternaives first, inclduing some baffles and a drain line to the bilge. (G)
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Re: Aluminum toe rail leak?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
"you also need to be sure to level out the new mastic so the rail sits flat. otherwise it will leak again. " This is supposedly why C&C used butyl tape as their "caulking". Inherently flat and even, so if the bolts are torqued down fairly evenly, the seal is more reliable. In theory. Everything depends on the extent and nature of the leak. When the options include $40K I think I'd consider all the alternaives first, inclduing some baffles and a drain line to the bilge. (G)
the tape still requires lifting the deck and that is not cheap, nor easy. personally i would just leave it alone. boats are wet anyhow. its mostly cosmetic. cover the water stains with teak slats. in places the liners cover the thru bolts. you really dont want to start sledge hammering into the liner. also some of the early psc were screwed together. remove them and you're forced to go the bolt route. of course if the leak is from a mushy deck then other issues crop up. but even with a wet deck, you can sail these boats for decades unless your going to go off into hurricanes, the southern ocean, or winter storms.
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